1990 Suburban won't start

I am going to assume that you used 3/8 fine thread bolts(9/16 head) to pull the balancer off with. You say that the bolts are stripping out of the balancer. If you can put a nut on each bolt on the back side of the balancer you could maybe get it off. Or since you know the balancer is trashed, tap the holes to the next larger size if you have tap and die set. Use 7/16 coarse thread tap. Also I usually take out the center bolt--the one with the thick thick washer on it--remove the washer and put it back in all the way to protect the threads in the crank when I am using the puller. I use a socket and long ratchet to tighten down the puller. Long screwdriver in the balancer spokes to hold it from turning. Good Luck.

Help. I've been trying to pull off the balancer for the last two days. Is there a trick to getting it off? I pulled one of the washers out of the center of the balancer, but there may be something else I'm missing. The screws I'm using keep pulling out of the balancer.I know I have the right size bolts going through the yoke. Also, the rubber has almost completely "walked" in between the balancer. There is only about 1/4 of it in the right spot. Any suggestions?

Most balancer pullers use the 3 bolts to attach to the balancer and then a large shaft with a special end (so it wont hurt the threads) pushes against the crank as the shaft is tightened to remove the balancer. Sounds like you are using a gear puller and you are pulling the outer ring of the balancer off. The center bolt must be removed to get the balancer off.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/53578/

//2000CAYukon

I have a standard harmonic balancer puller. (I have a gear puller if I need it once I get the timing cover off). The three bolts keep walking out as I tighten the large "push" bolt going through the center of the yoke (with the special end that doesnt damage the threads). Maybe the threads are stripped? I also have the center bolt out (I can see the end of the crank). With the rubber having "walked" almost completely, I'm going to replace the balancer as well.

I have a standard harmonic balancer puller. (I have a gear puller if I need it once I get the timing cover off). The three bolts keep walking out as I tighten the large "push" bolt going through the center of the yoke (with the special end that doesnt damage the threads). Maybe the threads are stripped? I also have the center bolt out (I can see the end of the crank). With the rubber having "walked" almost completely, I'm going to replace the balancer as well.

OK. Now I understand. In this case, I would put a nut on the end of each of the 3 bolts since the threads are shot (and yes you will need to replace the balancer).

This should allow you to get the balancer off. If you don't have nuts for the bolts, take them to a hardware store and match them up.

//2000CAYukon

YohDave-

I just signed up, and I couldn't find a "start new thread"
button anywhere (maybe its better I post my sitch under
this one anyway).

My 1990 R2500 4WD 5.7L won't start, either, but to be
more exact it won't CRANK. Everything was fine until a week ago, when I left work and walked out to the pkg lot.
Turning the key produced that clicking noise - and even when a coworker gave me a jump, it just clicked. Ended
up having it towed home. Since then, I have replaced the starter, the starter switch, the gnd batt cable and the positive batt cable that connects directly to the starter. Even with the truck batt disconnected and jumper cables hooked directly to external known good batt, it just clicks, with about 1/4 turn of the crank intermittently.

I've searched this forum and found many similar posts, but they are for younger trucks, temperature/gravity dependent situations, etc., and seem to be ignition problems rather than cranking problems.

I'm posting this after the + batt cable idea failed. Now the only culprits left seem to be:

Fusible link? (where is it?)
New starter is bad.
Jumper cable is bad, despite appearances.
High compression for some reason

Any ideas? My life is going downhill . . !

YohDave-

I just signed up, and I couldn't find a "start new thread"
button anywhere (maybe its better I post my sitch under
this one anyway).

My 1990 R2500 4WD 5.7L won't start, either, but to be
more exact it won't CRANK. Everything was fine until a week ago, when I left work and walked out to the pkg lot.
Turning the key produced that clicking noise - and even when a coworker gave me a jump, it just clicked. Ended
up having it towed home. Since then, I have replaced the starter, the starter switch, the gnd batt cable and the positive batt cable that connects directly to the starter. Even with the truck batt disconnected and jumper cables hooked directly to external known good batt, it just clicks, with about 1/4 turn of the crank intermittently.

I've searched this forum and found many similar posts, but they are for younger trucks, temperature/gravity dependent situations, etc., and seem to be ignition problems rather than cranking problems.

I'm posting this after the + batt cable idea failed. Now the only culprits left seem to be:

Fusible link? (where is it?)
New starter is bad.
Jumper cable is bad, despite appearances.
High compression for some reason

Any ideas? My life is going downhill . . !

If you click on "Forum Tools" at the top of this forum, you can start a new thread (which would be a good idea).

Click on this to start a new thread in this forum http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=1451

In general, clicking means that there is not enough electrical power to turn the engine. Can you rotate the engine by hand? I would probably have the starter bench tested. Also measure the voltage at the starter while you are trying to start the truck.

//2000CAYukon

YohDave--Do you have an update for us on your suburban problems? Thanks

I've been sick for the last few days. Just started again today. I've dropped the oil pan, now I'm going to pull the balancer tomorrow, take off the timing cover, replace the timing chain and balancer (I picked up a new balancer this week). After taking another look at the balancer that is on the truck, it is really messed up. I'll have a new update tomorrow.

check your ECM-1, ECM-2, and Crank fuses, they are all in line on the bottom of the fuse box. other than that, from what ive read youve already done most other replacements i would suggest. however when i was in college we had engines we had to diagnose, i had gotten a 350 and it turned out the M.A.P. Sensor was bad, replaced, and fired right up. not sure if the 454 has a map sensor, but its worth a shot

I thought I had the oil pan done, but even with all the screws out, I'm still having a hard time getting the pan to drop. Any tricks, suggestions? Thanks for the tip on the MAP sensor. Yes, the 454 has one and I'll check that out too. Thank you.

If you haven't already, check the flanges with a bright light to make sure all bolts are out. There should be a stud on each side in the front and in the back. These may be holding it in. I belive that a 5mm socket fits these to remove them. Sometimes they are reverse torx, but the 5mm should work on those as well. Good luck!

Yoh, you will find you have to TAP the pan with a hammer on it's side to get it to break lose. I did not say whale on it and if you can use a rubber hammer or at least a block of wood to take the blow. I'm startin to feel for ya dave,I wish I was there,where ever there is,to help you out.

I will be back at it this weekend. I've been feeling lousy this week. If you were in S. California, I would ask for your help. Thanks again!

YohDave,

Where in SoCal are you? I live in Woodland Hills - maybe I can help get you through the timing chain part at least. The worst thing about these problems is trying to fix them alone...

Jonathan

Thanks for the post. Sorry it took me a few days.
I'm in North San Diego County. Maybe a little too far.

Thanks for the offer. You are right, working on this stuff by yourself isn't great fun.

Thanks again.

I had this same issue on my 91 R2500 with 454
I also replaced the intank fuel pump first... then had a Chevy tech tell me it was likely one of 2 things
1) Distributor module (also had a new one that was bad from the beginning)
2) fuel pump wiring harness in the tank itself

since I had the tank dropped I replaced the wiring harness which did not fix it... as soon as I replaced the distributor module a second time with proper heatsink paste underneath it it worked perfectly... no problems since

hope this may help some

It was running fine 3 days ago! I went to start it yesterday and it just kept cranking! I didn't hear the fuel pump going so I installed a new pump relay. After not hearing the pump run, I installed a new pump & sock/filter. I also installed a new fuel filter. Now I hear the pump running but It still would not start! I checked the TBI nozzles and they were pulsing fuel when cranking. I checked for spark on #1 spark plug and it has good spark. I checked distributor cap & rotor-They both look good! While I was at it I replaced the ignition module also. I'm getting fuel sprayed at the TBI nozzles and good spark, but, won't hit a lick! ANY IDEAS???

A little history: 203,000 miles on the 454 now. I replaced timing chain 2 years ago with Cloyes true roller chain and sprockets set. Did a valve job and installed new cap & rotor with new spark plugs & wires at the same time. It has run better than I can remember than when it was new-Until NOW!