92 chevy blazer s10, rear hatch?

so the punks in my neighborhood just smashed my rear hatch window out. read in my hanes book on replacement very vague any ideas on what tools i need to fix it or process, any help would be appreciated.

need a torx screwdriver or rachet bits.

- undo the struts, defrost wires
- undo the clamps from the roof
- pull the remainder of the window off
- get glass from the junkyard
- have someone help to set it back in place and attach

thanks, everything is back in order except we could not sodder on the wires from the struts to the window for the defrost, maybe the sodder gun wasnt hot enought.

That's great.

The struts "should" have a male end-connector on them - with a female butt connector for each of the wires. Shouldn't have to solder them...

i connected the female end wire to the male end strut but the other side needed to be soddered to the window copper peice maybe the original part was missing dont know. but it works know.

on another note, now i have to hold the key just right to get it to start , now i have to fiddle around with it in the ingnition and it takes about 3 times to start it, it is like it starts to start then loses power, but the battery is new, could this be my starter, or the ignition where i put in my key? any help would be greatfull on this, it is getting worse everyday.

need to isolate if this is ignition or starter related.

- do dash lights come on when you turn ignition to start mode? Is there play in the ignition? If everything powers up probably a selenoid problem on starter or even a loose wire on starter can do this...
- do you hear a "click" from starter? If it clicks, clicks, then engages after a number of times, a flat in the selenoid would do it
- check for loose wire connecting to selenoid as well

- If problem is sloppy ignition - never changed one so I'd rather not say. Did this start after they broke the window? Maybe they tried to steal it - broker your ignition?

all the lights come on when i start to turn the key, the starter does click, could it be a bad ground off the battery maybe? i had a loose cable before i grounded it to another spot with a new cable but it started fine, so maybe not that. there really is no play in the ignition, its not loose at all, just have to hold it about half way, if its before or after that point it will do nothing. then if that happens while im trying to start it everything goes dead, so i stop try it again the starter clicks a couple times then nothing, usually the third time it will turn over. and the ignition was not tampered with luckily. if the wire conections are tight what should i try or do

so now it has a bad grind sound comming from the starter, and it doesnt start at all now, it tries but fails, i talked to midas about it, they said it sounds like the starter, and will cost around 300 to fix. major bummer.

Installing a starter is easy, 2 bolts it drops down, then 2 nuts off the selenoid. Should cost you little over $100 for a decent starter.

Now, the grinding is because the electromagnet does not have enough power to push the spline gear in and engage. There is a remote possiblity that the flywheel may have some damaged teeth on it, should it should be inspected.

btw - missed your last post - sorry about that...

the mechanics informed me, the would have to take off the exhaust and something else, something like it would be a hard job. not sure their total cost new starter and labor was three hundered. but thanks for the info i will bring it to them.