Racing Oils

Has anyone tried to use racing oil, in there F-Body?

Has anyone tried to use racing oil, in there F-Body?
German Castrol is the most exotic I have ever gone.

all i use is Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic with some Lucas Synthetic

I was wondering about oil too.

I got a 2001 Firebird V6 3.8L and im due to change oil in like next week. I do it myself. Last time I put like 10W-30 or so but my mechanic told me to put 20W-50 next time. Is that good? What kind of oil should I be putting on a car with exactly 85k miles?

After seeing the internal condition of a LT1 Corvette at 60K which is run on all Mobil 1 versus the internal condition of other non synthetic LT1 run with half that. I am a total believer in the superior formula of Mobil 1, after all the best performance cars out there call for it, the only downside might be seals that don't last as long but its worth a few leaks in my opinion.

Rumor has it....

Mobil 1 is no longer 100% synthetic. This is since Katrina.
I guess they are using a lower grade basestock oil which is not 100%.

This doesn't mean the oil isn't good, just that it is overpriced.

Rumor has it....

Mobil 1 is no longer 100% synthetic. This is since Katrina.
I guess they are using a lower grade basestock oil which is not 100%.

This doesn't mean the oil isn't good, just that it is overpriced.
I believe its just that, a rumor. It states on there bottle as well as on the site that it is a fully sythetic motor oil. If this was not the case, seeing as how Mobil 1 is the most saught after sythetic oil by the average car guy, the competition would be all over this.

Mobil1 is no longer a 100% Group IV Synthetic PAO basestock. This all started post Katrina when Mobil1 announced it's PAO plant was whacked hard. Virgin Oil Analysis began popping up on various boards refelcting Group III basestocks with drops of GroupIV PAO's. Pennzoil Platinum did the same thing....went to a Group III basestock in November 2005 by the way. And I do watch many boards and forums outside of BITOG.....(which has turned into a zoo by the way).....I read the corporate reports of Exxon-Mobil and Shell.....so I research and get my info from more than the Internet and VOA's....
I wrote a letter to Mobil asking if their basestock was still 100% Group IV and got a "canned response" like others word for word by the way....
" Mobil 1 motor oils are 100% synthetic, utilizing the PAO basestock and proprietary blend of additives that is tailored specifically for each viscosity. Mobil does not discuss specifics about our motor oil formulations."

You want to know why I have an issue with that statement? Because Mobil Pre-Katrina always said and advertised they used Group IV basestock exclusively. "Utilizing the PAO basestock...." is not the same as "Exclusively using the PAO basestock..."......that is a change for sure....the other thing that has me convinced Mobil1 is now just another synthetic "blend" is they are now advertising they utilize "Synthetic Technology"....
So.....Mobil in their Corporate Report admit to disaster at the plant that made the PAO basestock ( which Amsoil buys there by the way). VOA's clearly show a reformulation with Group III showing up. Mobil has changed the way they "express themselves" now. Mobil1 now sells it for like $5-$6 bucks a quart for a Synthetic Blend oil. And that is a rip off as they are now just as guilty as those they sued and litigated against years ago.
I remain an advocate that Mobil1 is good oil. However it is very very overpriced for what it is now. Lot better oils out there for less money for sure.

Hope that makes some sense.
Now of course....this isn't 100% fact. This is one old car guys opinion on it. But he has never steered me wrong.


Just in......from a "oil board" and the author is a known chemist guru.....

Okay boys and girls, take a seat cause you aren't going to like this.

The new M1 EP 5W-30 SM dated Oct 2006 just came out of the G.C. and it is MOSTLY mineral oil, presumably Group III. It also contains a good slug of AN and some PAO, but little or no ester. Will have more data tomorrow.


And Mobil has changed its spec sheets on the 5-30 EP....
"PAO + hydroprocessed."
BY the way GC is Gas Chromatograph....cuts through the shit machine

After all these years of Mobil1 crying about other "Synthetic Blend" brands selling as Full Synthetics.....they go and do this.....just goes to show you what money and greed will do.

Posted 11-4-06 by the same guy.

I am not discrediting your source but I have read lots of knowledgable members from lots of boards get info wrong or mixed up. I agree the plant damage along with some minor tweaking of statements makes things look fishy, however nothing posted can be viewed as fact (as you stated). The sad part though is probably most independant testing publications wouldn't run this test due to Mobil being a huge marketing company and possible legal action of damages to sales.

well I was also wondering if anyone here has tried Royal Purple; or atleast heard any +/- reviews over it.

You wouldnt think Mobil1 would do it, though.

I would stick with 10W30....xcohiba

well I was also wondering if anyone here has tried Royal Purple; or atleast heard any +/- reviews over it.

You wouldnt think Mobil1 would do it, though.

I would stick with 10W30....xcohiba
Don't use royal purple.. If you really want to know what oil to use visit Bobistheoilguy.com General conses is German Castrol Syntec is hands down the Best oil out there. Mobile1 is a good alternative altough on the viscosity level is the at the extreme light end of the weights. Hope this post helps. I use German Castrol and if I can't find it I use Mobile 1 with a WIX filter.

K&N has some nice high flowing oil filter also.

K&N has some nice high flowing oil filter also.

ive used K&N but really had no use for it at 12$$ a filter.

also where could I find some of that "German Castrol" ???

AutoZone I guess carries it.

I use Delco filters.

German Castrol is found at Autozones. You need to grab the castrol syntec bottle and look on the side if it says Made in Germany thats the shiznit. If it says North america it is shit.

I have no use for a 12 dollar oil filter myself which is why I run WIX. Every oil change I ship oil off to get an analysis done and I cut open the filter to have a look see.

i was reading a book titled something like this "building smallblock chevy's on a budget" and i came across a section about engine oil. i believe the oil he said was the best easily obtainable oil was redline. he then went on to claim that some purely racing oils can be used because some of them have detergent additives and that these detergent containing racing oils are the best way to go if money is not an issue. dont know how true this really is, but the guy wrote a 100 pageish book on smallblock chevys so i assume he knows his stuff

i was reading a book titled something like this "building smallblock chevy's on a budget" and i came across a section about engine oil. i believe the oil he said was the best easily obtainable oil was redline. he then went on to claim that some purely racing oils can be used because some of them have detergent additives and that these detergent containing racing oils are the best way to go if money is not an issue. dont know how true this really is, but the guy wrote a 100 pageish book on smallblock chevys so i assume he knows his stuff
Yeah don't get me wrong redline is the shit, I used to run that in the tranny and rear of my DSM but the cost for it, Amsoil, And other top grade motor oils suck ass.. Who here has 80 bucks to spend on a case of oil? If you do shit share your money making expertise with me. The oils I listed (and filter) can be had by anyone with a working class budget. I'm a full time student I dont know about anyone else on the board but I have to pay for my own shit and for the money German Castrol and Mobile 1 are the way to go. With either the K&N xtra big filter or Wix. CarQuest and Napa both sell WIX filters for the 4th Gen Fbody for around 7 bucks. SO I go with WIX and Mobile1 unless I find GC.

-Nate

lol yeah college sucks. and on top of that i need to save up about 5-10 grand to finish my truck project with my job at freakin mickey dees (too cheap to pay someone to do it for me so i stole my parents garage and have used it for the last 2 years...yeah their pretty mad) i should get a different job but i like hitting on all the hot chicks that work there from el salvador or something lol

Has anyone tried to use racing oil, in there F-Body?
What's the difference between a "racing" oil and a normal oil?

I guess the first thought that pops into mind is why use a "racing" oil if (assuming) most of your driving is street?

I've been running my 94 Chev. pickup mostly on Amsoil 5-30 for nearly 200k miles with and without extended drain intervals up to 25k miles. Runs like a champ and uses no oil to speak of, wish I could say as much for the rusty body...

It's funny, guys/gals will try to score some particular oil even at a (relatively) high price and then buy some cheap-assed filter. If anything, the filter is at least as important as the oil for a daily driver.

If you want the best filter, go with a Donaldson - I forget the exact model number, but I can get it if anyone is interested. it ain't cheap, but it's all I use on my Camaro (along with Mobil 1)...

i love lucas synthetic, it great

yeah i dunno about the main difference between regular and racing, but i remember from the dude's chapter that racing oils have more anti-shear stuff in them and whatever, apparently the street-use oils have less and less of the good stuff as time goes on due to regulations, but the racing oil still retains the good stuff, such as zinc additives and whatnot. apparently using regular motor oil is not so hard on roller cammed engines, its the flat tappet motors such as classic smallblocks that are really getting f'ed over by it.

I think plain old diesel spec oil still contains some of the "good stuff" and it's probably a fair bit cheaper too.

In terms of viscosity, for an engine you need to last, getting lubrication to the moving parts at startup is pretty important. So, IMO, the heavier stuff like 20-50, etc. takes longer to flow to the moving parts - not what I want to do to my engine unless it's REALLY loose...

Well currently im running with a WIX filter, Mobil 1 "Fully Sythetic"...haha, along with Lucas Full Synthetic Stablizer. Im going to go hunt down some of that German stuff for my next oil change.

And also, I was wondering should I drop to 5w? or just stay with 10w30? I saw some oil (forget where) that was for the LS1 rated at 0W30 so...j/w

Brandon F.:popcorn:

Well currently im running with a WIX filter, Mobil 1 "Fully Sythetic"...haha, along with Lucas Full Synthetic Stablizer. Im going to go hunt down some of that German stuff for my next oil change.

And also, I was wondering should I drop to 5w? or just stay with 10w30? I saw some oil (forget where) that was for the LS1 rated at 0W30 so...j/w

Brandon F.:popcorn:
Well that depends on your car. All LS1's have an oil consumption problem. Some worse than others. Going to a lighter weight like 0 or 5 will cause the consumption rate to go up. Also where you live has a direct impact on what weight. If you live somewhere cold and you drive your car in the winter your going to want a 0 or 5 weight oil to aid in engine startup. If it is warm then 10w is perfect for startup.

Yea, Ill more than likely, stick with 10w, I live in Okiehoma so it never really gets freezing or "burr cold" (<-theres a story to that). Except for the past few days, but still then it started up just fine with no hesitation.

Yea, Ill more than likely, stick with 10w, I live in Okiehoma so it never really gets freezing or "burr cold" (<-theres a story to that). Except for the past few days, but still then it started up just fine with no hesitation.
I envy you..... Indiana and its currently 21 degrees only to get colder.