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Replacing fuel pump....let the debate begin!!!


whalerboy
11-22-2006, 12:34 PM
Well, I think it's about time for me to replace my sending unit. My gas gauge needle flops around like the mixing board at a wu-tang clan concert.

I'll replace the fuel pump as well (you KNOW if I didn't it would crap out on me a week later...i got over 100k on the original one)

The debate?...Remove the bed or drop the tank?

I dropped the tank on my friends truck last year, and the thought of lying on my back on the cold floor, getting a mouth (and eye) full of rust, while praying that I don't tweak/snap/break/screw up a fuel line doesn't really excite me.

It seems to me, from reading several posts that the masses are split on this issue...let's settle it for good!!!

MT-2500
11-22-2006, 12:52 PM
Well, I think it's about time for me to replace my sending unit. My gas gauge needle flops around like the mixing board at a wu-tang clan concert.

I'll replace the fuel pump as well (you KNOW if I didn't it would crap out on me a week later...i got over 100k on the original one)

The debate?...Remove the bed or drop the tank?

I dropped the tank on my friends truck last year, and the thought of lying on my back on the cold floor, getting a mouth (and eye) full of rust, while praying that I don't tweak/snap/break/screw up a fuel line doesn't really excite me.

It seems to me, from reading several posts that the masses are split on this issue...let's settle it for good!!!

It is more of a personal decision than a debate.
What is good for the goose is not always good for the gander.:grinyes: :lol:

Also you forget to put in chop a hole in the bed to replace it.:grinyes:
:grinno: :lol:
Beside it is not a easy decision and a lot of stuff has to be considered and the situation has to be looked over good.
Ever truck is different.
A person has to consider several things before he makes a decision on it.
Year make and model and what kind of bed?
Some with fifth wheels and campers and all sorts of other stuff on or in or around or on top of bed.
Rusty bed bolts and fuel tank straps rear bumpers and trailer hitches hooked to bed..

Also what tools and jacks and lifts and people helping exc.

whalerboy
11-22-2006, 01:01 PM
It is more of a personal decision than a debate.
What is good for the goose is not always good for the gander.:grinyes: :lol:

Also you forget to put in chop a hole in the bed to replace it.:grinyes:
:grinno: :lol:
Beside it is not a easy decision and a lot of stuff has to be considered and the situation has to be looked over good.
Ever truck is different.
A person has to consider several things before he makes a decision on it.
Year make and model and what kind of bed?
Some with fifth wheels and campers and all sorts of other stuff on or in or around or on top of bed.
Rusty bed bolts and fuel tank straps rear bumpers and trailer hitches hooked to bed..

Also what tools and jacks and lifts and people helping exc.

It's a 2001, extended cab, short bed. All the bolts (bed and strap) look to be in about the same condition. I have all kinds chainfalls, come alongs, and rigging to be able to pick the bed off if nobody is around to help me. No 5th wheel, and not much else in the way of pulling the bed off.

That's the way I'm leaning. I've done it the other way, so if I pull the bed off, I'll know for sure which one is the bigger pain in the ass. That way I can travel back in time and tell myself which way to do it....:screwy:

MT-2500
11-22-2006, 04:39 PM
It's a 2001, extended cab, short bed. All the bolts (bed and strap) look to be in about the same condition. I have all kinds chainfalls, come alongs, and rigging to be able to pick the bed off if nobody is around to help me. No 5th wheel, and not much else in the way of pulling the bed off.

That's the way I'm leaning. I've done it the other way, so if I pull the bed off, I'll know for sure which one is the bigger pain in the ass. That way I can travel back in time and tell myself which way to do it....:screwy:


That is a good way to find out.
But as said every truck may be a different situation.
Some perfere the bed remove and some just drop the tank.
And still yet some still chop a hole in the bed.:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Either way is usually not to hard. But can be a pain at times.
Good luck and choice a good OEM type fuel pump so you will not have to do it many times.

spackelman
11-22-2006, 06:32 PM
I did the drop tank thing on my old dodge. No big deal.

When I have to do it on this truck, I will probably lift the bed. It will give me the chance to eyeball everything from the cab back from the topdown. I can repair / replace / tighten and throw some touch-up paint on anything that needs it.

May even do the rear brakes.

Seems like the best way. Time wise, probably longer... you have to spend the time to align the bed.

NoRiceHere01
11-22-2006, 09:20 PM
i dropped my tank in my driveway by myself with a floor jack and some elbow grease.i had my girlfriend there as another set of hands and to spot, but i could have done it alone.if i had a garage and the equipment or extra people i would agree with lifting the bed too tho.its up to u.i really dont think either one is too hard on these trucks.just to let u know,however,and i dont think i saw it in any posts here: you're correct on one point in particular.if your replacing the sending unit then u r indeed replacing the pump with it.its one unit and its not cheap.i think i got reamed about $350 if i remember correctly.but your right about another thing too.if it wasnt one unit and u didnt replace the pump, it would most certainly crap out on u in another week

horse482
11-23-2006, 12:05 AM
I have done it both ways and it just depends on the situation as stated above. All fuel pump mfgs are now recommending that you drop the tank, drain it, throughly clean it and then put the new pump in. Some are talking about not selling the pump seperate from the tank, they are wanting to sell a sealed tank, pump assy, to stop contamination from not cleaning the tank. They say that the #1 killer of fuel pumps is a dirty tank.

BlenderWizard
11-23-2006, 06:43 AM
I voted for taking the bed off, because that's what I plan to do when my number's up.

16th hippy
11-23-2006, 05:57 PM
done quite a few pumps on pickups....if you have about 3 other people and no heavy tool boxes in the bed, it ALOT easier(chainfall hoist should work with correct balancing in leiu of other people). with either way, you will get the mouthfull of rust/dirt. 8 bolts for the bed, and 2 plugs for wires, and a couple bolts at the filler neck. if you lift the bed off, make sure when stetting it on the bumper that you have that vertical brace/bar on the bumper....if not you may collapse the rear fenders/bed area.

this method is only my opinion, and when using said method, i am using a lift and air tools, so it makes it easier to pull the bed. good luck!

4x4playhus
11-23-2006, 09:28 PM
If you opt to remove the bed mark some referance points with a crayon. Three on the back of the bed. Center both bed and cap, inside corners lt, rt, then use a carpenders square. Set your square on the inside of bed corners, slide ruler up to cab at corners and lock the ruler in the square. If your cab was square to start with it should replace square using this in reverse. This saves so much time. If it's not square cab to bed but square on the outside when you look at it. Note the distance from cab at lt corner and at rt corner.

Good luck.:licka:

fleettech
11-26-2006, 08:00 AM
I voted to pull the bed.it all depends on the truck we get alot at work with a bed full of junk and tool boxes or flatbeds. I think for the average P/U pulling the bed is faster,easier and less of a pain in the ass than being a contorsionest to get the lines un hooked and wrestle the tank if its got fuel in it murpheys law applies here when a fuel pump goes out the tank will ultimatly be full.

silvychick
12-09-2006, 12:20 PM
I say remove the bed. It takes a total of about an hour to hour an a half. You can't just buy the sending unit. The sending unit is part of the fuel pump. Cost is about 400 dollars.

Slowprocess
12-13-2006, 12:54 PM
I installed a new Walbro 255 in mine Monday night and it was really easy removing the bed. Had it off in about ten minutes. Now the Walbro install was an totally different ballgame(since they don't make a drop in replacement for this truck). :frown: Still, its in and I'm no longer running lean on the big end of the 1/4.

tom3
12-20-2006, 04:45 PM
Had several Chevy trucks over the years. I put four eyebolts in the garage ceiling, use cargo straps to lift the bed off, push the truck out from underneath. Wash everything off good and just sit on the frame and change the pump. Wouldn't do it any other way.

Blue Bowtie
01-08-2007, 08:27 AM
I've become accustomed to removing the tank, since removing bodywork on a van, Blazer, Tahoe, Suburban, or other vehicle is not generally an option. It's only four bolts (sometimes two), three lines, and one electrical connector, and the tank can be lowered. Removing the bed seems like a lot more work than that. Since the late 1980s, the bolts have all been Stalgard coated, so corrosion may not be as big a problem as you might anticipate. Good penetrating oil is always advisable, even if you're removing bed mount bolts, bumper bolts, etc.

Moreover, its a good excuse to clean out accumulated debris between the tank and rock shield, clean out the tank itself, and get a good look at the always suspect electrical connections.

sreve
01-16-2007, 08:29 PM
i realize this is an old post, but (Quote:)

You can't just buy the sending unit. The sending unit is part of the fuel pump. Cost is about 400 dollars.

people belive this because the dealer tells them that BS. they do sell it separtly $122u.s. last one i bought. i don't know why but it can be hard to find a dealer to admit it. here's one that will. Sapaugh Chevrolet 636-931-0055 i know this is not local too most of you but getting a part # is the main battle.

whalerboy
01-16-2007, 08:43 PM
i realize this is an old post, but (Quote:)

You can't just buy the sending unit. The sending unit is part of the fuel pump. Cost is about 400 dollars.

people belive this because the dealer tells them that BS. they do sell it separtly $122u.s. last one i bought. i don't know why but it can be hard to find a dealer to admit it. here's one that will. Sapaugh Chevrolet 636-931-0055 i know this is not local too most of you but getting a part # is the main battle.

Well, when I did a fuel pump for a friend last year, I got a complete AC delco assembly for $160 (sending unit and fuel pump) from the local Mom and Pop auto parts store. When the weather starts to get a little warmer out, I plan on replacing both. Because you KNOW if I were only to do the sending unit, the fuel pump would die a few weeks later, just to spite me!!!!:banghead:

sreve
01-16-2007, 09:01 PM
i replaced the sending unit only in mine 80,000mi ago. GM pumps hold up pretty good if you fill up at a 1\4 tank.

gremlin96
08-12-2008, 05:14 PM
first i would take it to the local Chevy dealer low on gas. as low as you feel safe. then have them replace the dash. since they have that nice bulletin out. then on the way home i would fill a gas can just in case you run out. keeping in mind you will need to lift the tank with gas in it. changing the fule pump will be fun after a brand spanking new dash.

maxwedge
08-12-2008, 07:26 PM
This thread is 1 and 1/2 years old and no addt'l posts, please check the dates before responding, thanks.

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