New rotors and shock/springs

I just put my 240 in the garage for the winter, and the past 3 weeks I've noticed that the rotors are wrapping a little. I'm not sure if they're too thin to be fixed or not, but I was just wondering if I should upgrade to something better, or is there really no point to it with stock set up... I do plan to swap, or turbo the 240 spring, finaces pending as always.

Also, I'm planning to grab myself a set of springs and shocks this winter, and install them for the summer. There was a brand that's been recommended more then once, but I can't remember it. So any recommendations?

Thanks
Adam

as for brakes, stick with stock for now.. you could put that $800-odd dollars into your engine.. worry about brakes later..

as for suspension, you have the choice of coilovers or shocks and springs.. read up on the differences between the two.. coilovers are more expensive but remember you get what you pay for.. i've had kyb agx shocks and eibach springs for over a year now and they're great.. only $800 setup right there.. it always depends on how much money you have to spend

-z32 brakes are more than nice, even on my stock setup, i let guys wit 400hp SR's drive my car and its the first thing they fall in love with, its the best money i have spent on my car

-get coilovers, youll buy a spring/shock combo with little to no adjustibility and want more within the year. Look at stance, KTS, megan if you want to go cheap, they still have plenty of good reviews. If you must buy spring/shock then look at eibach springs with kyb agx shocks and stuts, thats what a lot of ppl use and like, but as soon as they go to coils its no turning back.

Upgrade the rotors. Get yourself some brembo blanks (don't get the slotted or drilled crap), some nice pads (ex. EBC), new brake lines, and flush the braking system with good quality fluid. This will reduce fade to close to none, and you'll be able to pretty much track your car.
As for the suspension, I would go with adjustable struts, good springs (not the show crap that slams the car, it alters the suspension geometry and the car will actually handle worse), and swaybars. This will be cheaper then a set of coilovers and will handle better. Tires are also really important.

And for shocks go with either Koni, Tokico, or AGX. Koni I think are the best, but cost a shitload, AGX have a very narrow band of adjustability, Tokico Illumina are pretty good and have lifetime warranty plus a wide range of settings (I have these on my civic).

Good luck with the car.

a basic rotor upgrade and pad upgrade you will notice a pretty good difference over the stock setup. Dont worry about lines until you do an actual swap. So thats a cheap way to get better braking for the time being.

I would definantly do a little bit of suspension work before an all out brake setup. Not like it would really hurt anything, but usually suspension is well needed before a good brake setup.

Coil overs and bushings, or just do some basic mult-link parts( along with teh coils). Tension rods, tie rods(ends are not an absolute must on tie rods so you can save a little there). And the most expensive part....some RUCA's- Rear upper camber arms. Then all you would need to complete the whole multi-link replacement is rear toe rods and traction rods. WHich arnt to expensive if you decide to buy those as well.

but that would be a pretty good setup lol. Maybe atleast tension rods and rucas.

I'll have to disagree, you really don't need all those fancy parts. With some polyurethane bushing all around, on all of the arms, and a good alignment is all you need. Chamber doesn't wear out the tires much, mostly it is the toe that you get from lowering and not doing an alignment afterwards. Up to 2.5 degrees of negative chamber is actually still considered good. With "proper" parts you won't need all that crap because a car that is too low (one needing the extra adjustment) is the one with improper suspension geometry and will actually handle worse because it won't have enough suspension travel.
My :2cents: on this.

kyb agx shocks with tein drop springs have been good to me so far

I'll have to disagree, you really don't need all those fancy parts. With some polyurethane bushing all around, on all of the arms, and a good alignment is all you need. Chamber doesn't wear out the tires much, mostly it is the toe that you get from lowering and not doing an alignment afterwards. Up to 2.5 degrees of negative chamber is actually still considered good. With "proper" parts you won't need all that crap because a car that is too low (one needing the extra adjustment) is the one with improper suspension geometry and will actually handle worse because it won't have enough suspension travel.
My :2cents: on this.


All you need for what?? I would get new shit regardless......the stock crap is very junk. Plus the new shit is so much easier to work with.

have you ever driven a car with that much negative camber daily.....i ate through tires in less than six months.....just on the inner tire. obviously. While the rest of the tire was f'ing perfect. I mean after all the new suspension you will drive a little more aggressive because the car can handle it like nothing. You will eat through tires with negative camber....

im not saying you absolutely need all of that, but it depends on what he has planned for the car. But i dont know anyone that buys coils and doesnt slam the car pretty f'ing low.

All you need for the car to handle good. I am saying that you don't need the camber adjustment crap if you have the car properly set-up. If the car is slammed you alter the suspension geometry, and the shock travel. And no, I haven't driven a slammed dail driver, which I think is stupid. Slamming the car is purely looks, nothing else. Lower center of gravity will not compensate for lack of suspension travel.

coilovers can still travel plenty, even slammed, its not until u remove the collars or preload your springs does the travel really get sacrificed.. If your buyin quality parts its still gonna have room to compress, sure its not stock travel, but get your panties out of a bunch and realize 9kg/7kg coilovers owns 4kg/3kg lowering springs eight days a week, shit stock springs are like 2.5kg, not a big improvement at all...

edit:when you buy coils, they are valved to match the springrates they come with, with shock spring combo its a guess really, unless you really know what your doing... but then you would be buying coils

i have agx/gf210.. im happy with them but i want coil overs now.. i would but in the extra cash and get coilovers. good springs and struts can cost about $600.. megan or ksports cost around $800 now... also get sway bar.. omfg do they make a difference..

as for brakes the stock brakes are great for stock power. get new pads and rotor.

later get z32 brakes/ braided lines/ rotors..

if you can find a deal on Z32s, do it, it takes the same time as a brake job and doesnt cost much more... The extra dollars spent are worth it, youll see as soon as you hit the brakes, try it and youll want it... Regardless of power, your still stopping a 2700 lb car, extra braking is better and safer

coils are pretty much designed to go lower.....therefore lowering the center of gravity while still keeping the suspension. THere stiffer, therefore dont move much anyways. Slammed i guess is the wrong term maybe? Slammed to me is like air ride slammed lol. But a lowered car is not just for looks lol.

no travel with coilovers?
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e373/xcusememisswyn/fan.jpg

R.W.240s car...
KTS Coilovers, full compression...
more than enough travel, if you know how to drive it

does anyone ever talk to RW240 anymore? ive tried to contact him a few times but no luck?

does anyone ever talk to RW240 anymore? ive tried to contact him a few times but no luck?

he posts on www.zilvia.net as McRussellPants...

Can you understand that you alter the suspention geometry too much? When the car is that low, a small travel in suspension will cause too big of a change in the alignment of the car.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f104/Pavlo959/Sus.jpg

THats why they make correction pieces to help with that crapola. It depends on how hardcore you want to get into it to correct the downfalls of what happens.

for example
"When the front suspension is dropped, the altered suspension geometry can result in bump steer - the suspension steering itself as toe changes when the suspension travels over bumps. Adjustable tie rod ends can restore the correct geometry of the tie rods and reduce bump steer, by adjusting the length from spindle to pivot point on the tie rod end."

Get properly aligned for how you drive for your preference of lowness. A good alignment shop or race specialty shop should be able to tell you do and donts for this type of stuff.

every dollar Chuki has spent on his suspension is justified, and i bet its gonna ride like its on rails when he gets it to that point...

sure if your dailyin your car to work and back, you dont need all of it, but if you want the best handling setup they are a must have...

and with coils you can lay frame, but you dont have to, Stance coils can ride higher than stock by an inch or two if thats what you like, and it still handles better than shock spring combo, no matter how you want your setup, 800 dollars into coils beats 600 dollar shock/spring in every category except ride quality, but not even my gf bitches about ride quality!

I'll most likely have to get a camber kit, won't I? Another little peice of the cost I wasn't thinking about.

As far as a z32 brake swap, do you have any more info on it? I also remember reading about swapping to the z32 hubs? Trying to remember it was a post from awhile ago.

you wont NEED a camber kit, im not gonna get mine right away, but it will be high on my priority list following the Stance Coils this summer...

and for z32's up front you dont need the hubs, out back you may i havent looked into it yet, thats another high one on my list...
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm <---all you need for brake job

But with any spring/shock setup I go for I would need a camber kit.

With the z32 hubs, I may not need, but I may want them, since I hear they're slightly lighter weight. I'm pulling from memory of reading that post. I really don't have time to search the forums for it right now since I'm at work.

Anyone got any honest websites to buy any of the shock/springs or coils etc?