1 ohm Setup problems- HELP!!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/metalhead2287/sonyxplod2.jpgI have 2 Alpine Type-R 12's in a sealed box and a sony 1200 watt amp with chip protection and my speakers are rated at 4 ohms dual voice coil and max 1500 watts... My basic hookup was at 4 ohms with straight forward hookup and assembly inside my vehicle... everything is perfect at 4 ohms. The sound and the clarity and no problems anywhere!!... well i got greedy and wired my speakers to putting a 1 ohm load to the amp... its un godly loud now but when i turn it up past 20 on the head unit my overcurrent light on the amp cuts on and my subs quit... if i cut the car off and then back on everything is fine until i turn it back up... how can i stop my amp from cutting off... my buddy told me that if i convert to 1 ohm that i would be pushing twice as much power to my subs... yeah its true but its giving me problems and i dont want to cut back down on power... do i need a capacitor or is it just too much power to handle... please help!!!! P.S. I have a mid-class alpine head unit, im using 4 guage wires and the system is installed in a 98 ford explorer...

If you are bridging a 2 channel amp, then the actual load each amp channel sees is 1/2 ohm. Also, it's a 1 channel amp, it still may not like the 1 ohm load - some amps can handle it, some can't.

well i cant find any specs on this amp any where... i do know that this amp is discontinued... because sony never got reports of it messing up on anyone i.e.(blowing on any one so they couldnt make money off of repairs so they quit making it) all i can tell is that it is a mosfet mono amp...

Ive never seen a sony amp that was 1-ohm stable, they might have made them back in the day but there newer stuff i would doubt it.

Also that amp would be more like 300rms into 4 ohm sony loves to put a nice overrated power rating on there stuff. And what gen type-r's you have it looks like the one i have which is pre-05, i believe they where 500rms, best way to tell single surround vs the dual surround.

Get a bigger amp or go dual amps if your running dual subs.

i would buy a better amp try this one for the type r's.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=44.

i appreciate the help... i got one more question.... i wanna keep my speakers because i know that u can take alpines to a crazy level of power... but i just dont know how to do it safely without messing anything up... i was looking around and i came across some nice audiobahn amps... at 1 ohm stable stereo... but everyone tells me that i should use only mono... what do u guys think... simply i just wanna push my speakers to ground breaking sound...

Why buy an audiobahn and why worry about 1ohm stable you can get 2ohm stable amps that push as much as some 1ohm stable ones. Just look around some more hifonics, mtx and there are some PPI and like the one playstation recomended.

hold on do you have the 2 dvc type r's or the 4 dvc type rs. and i would go with the amp link that i gave you. that is what i am getting for my type r's.

and audiobahn rates there amps at 18 volts so if it says 1000 rms at 2 ohm or whatever it really i about 500 to 600 if that.

and audiobahn rates there amps at 18 volts so if it says 1000 rms at 2 ohm or whatever it really i about 500 to 600 if that.

well that's not much help, unless you have an external regulator on your alternator ... but anybody that goes to that length will be looking at better brands than audiobahn.

the forum that i found that out did. that had a tone gen powering it and keep on adding d/c volts untill it reached the specs that audiobahn said that it could. and that was at 18volts. i lost that site though cause it was kinda about a year or so ago

I have the 4 ohm DVC's... i got them about two years back from crutch field...



in truth... i took my car to a stereo shop today... my amp is 1 ohm stable and its a 1 channel mono block... i had my speakers wired to making the amp see only 0.5 ohms wich is what my problem was... in the end i can only push 500 rms per speaker max out this crummy amp... so im thinkin about ordering a hifonics BXi 2006D... but i appreciate all of your help from every one... to a newbie of the sound life... lol car audio is the ish...!!

smart move ditching the xplod. hifonics is a sturdy little performer, u shouldn't come across any complaints.

... to a newbie of the sound life... lol car audio is the ish...!!

Unfortunately, it's rather expensive ... and VERY addictive

I have the 4 ohm DVC's... i got them about two years back from crutch field...



so im thinkin about ordering a hifonics BXi 2006D

just be sure to set your gains right on that amp since it is rated a 2k rms at 1 ohm

I have the 4 ohm DVC's... i got them about two years back from crutch field...
in truth... i took my car to a stereo shop today... my amp is 1 ohm stable and its a 1 channel mono block... i had my speakers wired to making the amp see only 0.5 ohms wich is what my problem was...

how did you wire two 4ohm dvc subs to a .5 ohm load on a mono amp? if all the coils were wired paralell your amp would see a 1 ohm load.:screwy:

how did you wire two 4ohm dvc subs to a .5 ohm load on a mono amp? if all the coils were wired paralell your amp would see a 1 ohm load.:screwy:

that new math will get you every time :rofl:

the way it was to the amplifier was at 1 ohms yes, but... i had the amp bridged wich isnt suppose to happen on that amp... its not a bridgable amp... but it was still bridged and it still worked and the dude at the shop said that i cut that 1 ohm load in half because of the way i was mixing the channels the wrong way or something... i dont think he knew what he was talking about.... i mean how can u mix "CHANNELS" when there is only ONE "CHANNEL"... i dunno...

did the guy just look at it and say you have a .5 ohm load? or did he actully hook up stuff to it?

oh and fyi there are mono amps that have more then 1 set of outputs

but it is still one channel, the extra outputs are so you don't have to try to stuff two wires into one hole :)

Dude what are u talking about... i didnt stuff two wires into one hole or better yet who in there right mind would do that... no offense... but the amp has two terminals... one speaker terminal with posotive and negative and another one just like it... i had my speakers wired together i guess u call it parrallel... and i had positive hooked up on one side and a negative on the other... wich makes u think that its a 2 channel amp but the peice of crap isnt.... from what ive seen on two channel amps the separate speaker terminals are away from each other but on mine they are together... and the specs say its a one channel... and what outputs are u talking about? the only out puts on this amp are the rca output throughout to hook up another amp...

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/metalhead2287/speakerterm.jpg
this is what i was talking about...

Get a better amp.
/thread.

i can't see the pic too well, but i am assuming the left set of terminals are + and the right side is -. on a mono amp these are two outputs (so you can hook up one wire under each, like you did, instead of two under one screw) that internally are the same single output. it is not bridgeing the amp, just subs/coils wired in parallel.
get it now?

I gotcha now... but i have seemed to run into a big problem... I just got the BXi2006D from my local stereo shop today... they asked me if i wanted them to hook it up for me... I said hell no... ne way there is really only two options that i see that i have for this hookup... my headlights go in and out when my subs hit...and i mean collassol hit.lol... but what could i do to prevent that... get a better alternator and a couple of capacitors or do u think it would be better to just daisy chain two batteries in the back and hook up the amp... I can tell u this though:grinno: those speakers hit so damn hard now when i first heard it i got sick on my stomach cuz it vibrated so bad... NARLY!!!



__________________________________________________ _________
-It seems that when u want to upgrade anything on a car...Something
always goes wrong... Thats when holes in your pocket become normal.

funny what happens when you get some good equipment after having some not so good stuff. The Blinking lights are from the power the new amp is pulling, try the "big 3" and see it helps. I think there is a section in the newbie thread about it.

but you should look into getting a high out alternator anyways

IF anyone wants good reasoning as to why the big 3 is better than a cap read this old thread

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=501886

as for the big three itself this is probably the best tutorial ive seen thats easy to find i should say

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=

thanx alot guys... that really helped out alot...



Is there some kinda digital gauge u can get that monitors your voltage in your power wire to your amp?? And also where could u get one of those meters that measure decibels?

DB meters can cost upwards of 500 and even into the 1200 range for a really good one. And i think it was manny wondering what mic my uncle had i was wrong its an audio control he was talking about getting a TL mic and one of the ones he used to own, this was a year or so ago when we tested it and my memory isnt the best.

Heres a used one on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/Term-LAB-Precision-Measurement-System-w-2-mics-PCMCIA_W0QQitemZ160058128647QQihZ006QQcategoryZ149 8QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

ive seen the shitty schoshe ones and some from radio shack but if your breaking 130db they wont even pic it up. Go to a local custom shop sometimes they have them for meets or what not and they might let you test it.

Also for the voltage all you need is any voltage meter i have a sunpro one its analog but it doesnt really mater im going to put on before the dist. block for my amps.

the audio control RTA (3050 or 3055) with the 170 dB or 180 dB sensor kit is like $2k. The make an indash one for a lot less. I think the termlab setup is like $5-600, well plus the laptop you need to run it.

well it doesnt really matter now... i blew my damn subs today.... i knew it was going to happen cuz ive had those alpines for a few years... gotta keep on spending money... haha. So, does the apline x's sound like a good choice for this hifonics amp or diamond subs... i think i might go for 15"s this time... lol.... hahahaha... something always goes wrong with the damn system... oh well....:banghead: well they blew because they were flexing way too much... kinda like a gymnastics person....

basically, what 15' subs are good overall and the most durable but not too much on price...

Sounds like they where distorting,

Heres one thats a great price for these to

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ASCENDANT-AUDIO-HAVOC-15-INCH-SUBWOOFER-1500W-SUB_W0QQitemZ250057653920QQihZ015QQcategoryZ18804Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

when you play predominantly "bass" music ...... low freq tones, you gotta match the amp power to the speaker rating (RMS to RMS) fairly close.

All right here it is... the alpine r's that i have are the ones with the smooth surround... the ones that i were told that were better are the ones with the rigid layered surround because they have more travel room for excursion(flexing)... im seriously thinking about upgrading big time because ive done sold the other amp i have... and im gonna need a lil help... i want to get 3 apline type r's 15" and build a custom box to fit my explorer... if i do that im gonna have three hifonics bxi 1206d amplifiers on each sub wired at 2 ohms for 900 rms... granted i get the 2 ohm alpines... if i do this im gonna use two bateries in the back because if i dont im gonna kill my car battery... what kind of distibution block would i need since the amps take 4 gauge wires and how many capacitors would i need and what cd-r mp3 head unit would u recommend for this setup and is this a good setup because to me i think its gonna be competition loud... i dunno... help me out please...........:icon16: because whatever the curcumstances are i have the money to spend on shit....... lol i wanna go super loud.... wether it be alpine or diamond!!!

Ive never heard diamond before but they looked alot like power acoustik stuff when i went to a car show, adn tehy where way over priced, but i cant say much since ive never heard them. And if your going all out why not go for something that would put the type-r's to shame and then some. The alpines are pretty good but they are nowhere near as good as some of the true audiophile SPL subs are, and some of those can be had for cheaper than the type-r's.

Heres a few to get your panties wet.

http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_premium_series_15_inch_DIY_subwoofer_informa tion.html

2-18's of these should make you happy
http://www.reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sx

http://www.adireaudio.com/Mobile/BrahmaSeries.htm

http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/woofers.asp?series=9500f

http://www.tcsounds.com/lms4000.htm

http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/woofers.asp?series=9500f

Theres alot more if money is no object, i would get away from type-r's most of these would put most other mainstream crap to shame.

yuh i saw those re audio 18's on realmofexcursion.com dude those are the knarliest speakers ive ever seen in my life... i could just never find them on ebay... i found a couple of 12's last nite but i wanna go big... im gonna wait a couple weeks before i order everything i want cuz i need to catch up on some studies with this car audio stuff... cuz if im going that loud i need to know somethin....

if you are going that loud you might want to look into sound deadning ,too

Better amps, better subs, front stage setup and a really good headunit. How much are you planning on spending just for an idea.

About 2000... im lookin to make a statement cuz people around my way think that if u hook up two pioneer 12's to an american pro 800 watt amp... they think they have somethin that no one can match... haha... what they really dont know is that there in pre school compared to what really can be done inside your car... yuh sorry... about 2000

wow 2k are going to try to do like 2 18, 3 12, personaly if i had a suv i would do a eu 700 wall.

2-15" RE SX would put three type-r's to shame. And 2-18" subs would be insane.

2 of these should make you happy

http://cgi.ebay.com/kove-armageddon-U2-treo-ssx-digital-designs-mmats-mtx_W0QQitemZ270067116416QQihZ017QQcategoryZ18804Q QtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

well its only 3 more days until i make the orders for everything that im going to get... i do know that before i hook up everything im gonna have to reinforce the back end of my explorer... cuz somethin gotta rattle loose... lol... but i think im gonna go with re audio... i found a couple of people in car clubs in charlotte NC that know quite a bit about them and they said if i wanna go competition then go with re audio... ive a bunch of people online in contest with re audio's... and i think im gonna get two ax3000-de us amps to go along with it... but i think thats just to start cuz im going montrous on this one.... i here about all these people spending 5 or 10 g's on a system and they dont even break 155 db's... i think the mx re audio 18's might be my best bet... but i think im gonna spend i lil bit over 2k... haha...

the people that spend 10g on audio and have not hit 155 db did not plan anything and probelly just keep on buying and buying.

If you want to break 155db, the MT is the sub you want. I thinkit was ngsm who hit 150 with a single 15" mt in his dakota. If your going to go big do it right, and a big :thumbsup: to the us-amps i know they have a great reputation with the big comp guys. Not sure how they have been in that last few years though.