Help With 91 Accord!!!
seidel4262
11-18-2006, 02:21 PM
I have a '91 Accord DX AUTO and the problem occurs while Im driving down the road and the engine just cuts off. For the most part I can throw it into neutral and coast long enough till it finally cranks up again. Some instances I have to wait a few minutes for it to finally crank up. Recently the car cut off 6 times during a 13 mile trip and its becoming a safety hazard for me and other motorists. I've changed out the few filter and hoped I could resolve the problem cheaply but it didnt change a thing. PLEASE ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED!
jeffcoslacker
11-18-2006, 05:34 PM
I have a '91 Accord DX AUTO and the problem occurs while Im driving down the road and the engine just cuts off. For the most part I can throw it into neutral and coast long enough till it finally cranks up again. Some instances I have to wait a few minutes for it to finally crank up. Recently the car cut off 6 times during a 13 mile trip and its becoming a safety hazard for me and other motorists. I've changed out the few filter and hoped I could resolve the problem cheaply but it didnt change a thing. PLEASE ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED!
Does it seem like it has to warm up fully before it happens? Or will it do it cold too?
And does this happen when you drop the gas, or just cruising along and it lays down?
Does it seem like it has to warm up fully before it happens? Or will it do it cold too?
And does this happen when you drop the gas, or just cruising along and it lays down?
ProMan
11-18-2006, 06:15 PM
Sounds like electrical or fuel problems
1. The first thing I would check is the distributor. Take the cap off and see if there is a layer of orange/brown deposits. If so, clean it up. Then check the igniter to see if it's in good condition. I would say the igniter is very possible the problem.
2. Main relay. But most situation is when it's hot outside and engine will not start.
3. Wiring problem. Maybe a wire got shorted from time to time. This could take forever to find out.
4. Fuel filter. If it's full of water, when the water got into the fuel injecter, the engine will cut off. Then the water level went down and let fuel pass and the engine can be started again. But you said you replaced "few filter". Does it mean fuel filter?
5. Fuel line jammed. Check the fuel pressure.
Good luck and let us know what's the fix.
1. The first thing I would check is the distributor. Take the cap off and see if there is a layer of orange/brown deposits. If so, clean it up. Then check the igniter to see if it's in good condition. I would say the igniter is very possible the problem.
2. Main relay. But most situation is when it's hot outside and engine will not start.
3. Wiring problem. Maybe a wire got shorted from time to time. This could take forever to find out.
4. Fuel filter. If it's full of water, when the water got into the fuel injecter, the engine will cut off. Then the water level went down and let fuel pass and the engine can be started again. But you said you replaced "few filter". Does it mean fuel filter?
5. Fuel line jammed. Check the fuel pressure.
Good luck and let us know what's the fix.
seidel4262
11-19-2006, 07:39 PM
the car has time to warm up and it usually comes about 5-10 minutes into the drive. Living in FL it never really gets too cold either. The cut off is sudden, just cruising down the interstate and it cuts off with no warning or change in of pressure on the gas pedal. If it is the igniter, do you know if this is an expensive repair? Something I could do myself?
jeffcoslacker
11-20-2006, 01:51 AM
Sounds like electrical or fuel problems
1. The first thing I would check is the distributor. Take the cap off and see if there is a layer of orange/brown deposits. If so, clean it up. Then check the igniter to see if it's in good condition. I would say the igniter is very possible the problem.
.
That's where I was going with it....saw a lot of those in the shop...if it's covered in the rusty deposits, the bearing in the end of the distributor is going bad and powdering, replacing the distributor now will save a fatal breakdown later when it siezes. Seems like it was more of a problem in the Civic than the Accord, but I think both were affected.
1. The first thing I would check is the distributor. Take the cap off and see if there is a layer of orange/brown deposits. If so, clean it up. Then check the igniter to see if it's in good condition. I would say the igniter is very possible the problem.
.
That's where I was going with it....saw a lot of those in the shop...if it's covered in the rusty deposits, the bearing in the end of the distributor is going bad and powdering, replacing the distributor now will save a fatal breakdown later when it siezes. Seems like it was more of a problem in the Civic than the Accord, but I think both were affected.
seidel4262
11-20-2006, 02:19 AM
checked the distributor and its clean...Im about to run the car over with a tank and save the trouble. Any ideas on how difficult it would be to replace the igniter?
PEARL1
11-20-2006, 08:03 PM
checked the distributor and its clean...Im about to run the car over with a tank and save the trouble. Any ideas on how difficult it would be to replace the igniter?
have to pull didtributor out, just make sure you mark on the body or dit and engine where it was, other than that you will see it in there, if you are not sure get the part first so you can see where it is, i dont think thats the problem here, when you are cranking take a look at the tach and see if it jumps or it is moving, usually the ignitor wont give you are warning, it just cuts out and thats it, at least all the times i have seen it go.
have to pull didtributor out, just make sure you mark on the body or dit and engine where it was, other than that you will see it in there, if you are not sure get the part first so you can see where it is, i dont think thats the problem here, when you are cranking take a look at the tach and see if it jumps or it is moving, usually the ignitor wont give you are warning, it just cuts out and thats it, at least all the times i have seen it go.
BIAR
11-21-2006, 01:49 AM
The electical portion of the ignition switchs go bad on these also.It,s easy to check.When they go bad you can keep the car running by holding in the start postion(only for a very few seconds ,it,s not good on your starter).If it does it,s the eletrical portion of the ignition switch.
With the distribotors ,I have seen rust in them without them being bad.When they go bad,usually there is a code and the customer will complain of a noise under the hood.
With the distribotors ,I have seen rust in them without them being bad.When they go bad,usually there is a code and the customer will complain of a noise under the hood.
jeffcoslacker
11-21-2006, 07:16 AM
The electical portion of the ignition switchs go bad on these also.It,s easy to check.When they go bad you can keep the car running by holding in the start postion(only for a very few seconds ,it,s not good on your starter).If it does it,s the eletrical portion of the ignition switch.
With the distribotors ,I have seen rust in them without them being bad.When they go bad,usually there is a code and the customer will complain of a noise under the hood.
I forgot about the ignition switch issue, you're right...some of those you could pound your fist on top of the column above the switch while driving and make them stall...
With the distribotors ,I have seen rust in them without them being bad.When they go bad,usually there is a code and the customer will complain of a noise under the hood.
I forgot about the ignition switch issue, you're right...some of those you could pound your fist on top of the column above the switch while driving and make them stall...
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025