My problem must be clucth slippage...

Alright, I have had this problem since I bought the car, and I feel that it must be clutch slippage.

My symptoms are pretty severe:

1. If I give the car any perectage of throttle, the RPM will rise as the speed ever so slowly inreases.

2. At WOT, in first gear, the RPM's will skyrocket and it takes me about 6 seconds to get to 40 mph, seriously.

3. If I launch the car it will throw me back in my seat, but immediatly falls on its face (sort of like fuel cut, but not fuel-cut and the RPMS will skyrocket.

4. In fifth gear at 60mph, just cruising, my RPM's will be at about 3.5K. Highly doubt it should be like that. Also, If I keep my foot at a specific "percentage" of throttle and dont pay attention to my speed I will slow down.

I have a feeling that it MUST be clutch slippage, because at 3500 RPM I am fully spooled and am at ~15psi. Its sucks to have the car like this ever since I bought it, because I still havent felt what my DSM is capable of. :shakehead It just doesnt pull hard.

I have a digital camera that can take videos, I will try to tape me driving tomorrow, so ya'll can see what i am talking about.

Anyways, my questions are, does this sound like clutch slippage? And, how hard is it to change the clutch myself? Its not that I dont think I can do it, its just that all I have are basic handtools...do you need anything special to change out a clutch?

Also, if I do decide to change out the clucth, it will probably be cheaper to just put in an OEM replacement...

BTW, I have already read the guide on vfaq about clucth replacement...doesnt seem TOO difficult, just need some support from you guys!

Thanks

When my clutch was slipping, I had the same symptoms, except it would grab and throw me back at all. It just felt gutless. To make sure it was slipping (and give myself a for sure reason to get a racing clutch), I launched in fifth gear and by the smell of it, I certainly had a slipping clutch. Make sure you replace the throw out bearing while you're in there, it'll save you stress in the long run.

Not recomemnded, but if you want to make sure, cruise at a low RPM and then give it gas, it should steadily rise until boost kicks in. If it rises faster than usual, then it's pretty much a tell-tale sign of slippage. I'm drunk.

It does sound like clutch slippage to me. Thats what my old OEM clutch used to do. Once I replaced it with my new one I never had that problem again.

As for doing it yourself... As long as you have a jack, some blocks or jackstands so you can get under the car then you should be good to go. I think I had my tranny out without any other tools besides hand tools... Well, I had to use the air ratchet on a few motor mount bolts but other than that you should be good to go. lol

It might almost be cheaper to buy an aftermarket clutch than another OEM one. For some dumb reason, most OEM parts have ridiculous prices.

Time for a new clutch.. Thats deff a warn down pressure plate..

I was kind of dreading to hear this, but I am also kind of excited to perform such a daunting task, lol.

So what parts will I need to replace? Clutch plate? Flywheel? Pressure plate?What else?

Also what kind of clutch should i get? Do they sell a kit that includes everything to perform a full clutch job?

Thanks again!

judging by the house in the background of your sig you are not poor...

Stock flywheel with the correct step height. And a simple 2100 or Exedy stage 1 should be fine for anything between stock and +25%. Anything between 26% and 75% increased output you should look into a 2600 or Exedy stage 2.

Use OEM throw out bearings only. Clutch forks are clutch forks. You might want an extended slave rod for peddle adjustments. Might as well get some $30 SS clutch lines..

Honestly, it would be a good idea to replace the whole thing, but you don't have to. The clutch is obvious, but the pressure plate would be a very good idea, but not always important, especially for a daily driver. The flywheel I would leave alone unless you plan on changing it out on the future. Again, do yourself a favour and replace the throw out bearing. I got mine for $50.

judging by the house in the background of your sig you are not poor...

Not to sure what you mean by this, I live with my parents, but where are you going with this?

Anyways, If I keep the stock flywheel and pressure plate all I need is the clutch plate, correct?

And yes, i will change out the clutch forks and throw out bearing.

Anyways, If I keep the stock flywheel and pressure plate all I need is the clutch plate, correct?

And yes, i will change out the clutch forks and throw out bearing.


If you buy a clutch kit off of SBR or whatever it will come with a new clutch and pressure plate.

I have an ACT2600 I bought off another member here. And when he bought the kit it came with the clutch, pressure plate and new throw out bearing.

Are you going to use it Wil? If not I may have a new home for it... On that third (and last) day I had it running, I finally figured out why it wasnt running right. So I got it running right and running ~16 pounds of boost and took 3 lauches. A 4k slipping the clutch out, a ~4.5k dumping it pretty hard, and a fuckin 5.5k hard dump. It bogged on the first two, but that last on it didnt and I was super suprised by it. I got to the middle of 3rd gear and had to lock em up to make the stop sign. Once there were suddenly could smell this nasty burning smell. I thought because I didnt bog I just got all the tires to spin good. Nope, that was the clutch burning up. A couple blocks later me and my two buddies figured it out and we pussy footed it back to one of their houses. We could see the smoke coming out and we were like, whoa shit, that wasnt good. Smoke was basically pouring out of the little rubber vent deally on the bell housing. So yeah, its time for a new clutch for Thor :D.

TOB's are only $20 on extreme PSI.

Are you going to use it Wil? If not I may have a new home for it... On that third (and last) day I had it running, I finally figured out why it wasnt running right. So I got it running right and running ~16 pounds of boost and took 3 lauches. A 4k slipping the clutch out, a ~4.5k dumping it pretty hard, and a fuckin 5.5k hard dump. It bogged on the first two, but that last on it didnt and I was super suprised by it. I got to the middle of 3rd gear and had to lock em up to make the stop sign. Once there were suddenly could smell this nasty burning smell. I thought because I didnt bog I just got all the tires to spin good. Nope, that was the clutch burning up. A couple blocks later me and my two buddies figured it out and we pussy footed it back to one of their houses. We could see the smoke coming out and we were like, whoa shit, that wasnt good. Smoke was basically pouring out of the little rubber vent deally on the bell housing. So yeah, its time for a new clutch for Thor :D.

TOB's are only $20 on extreme PSI.


Well, I'm about to pull the motor out of my car and sell it. So I can sell you the clutch then,(I only put less than 50 miles on it) I am not sure however when the motor is coming out.

Good deal. Is it the 6 puck? If not would you consider just selling the PP? Are you parting her or what?

AbsoluteGTR: Changing clutches is a PITA in an AWD. Theres a couple different ways I've heard of it getting done, either A) dropping the tranny or B) pulling the whole motor and tranny which I hear is easiest. Since I am going to have to make one engine of two, I am just going to do it while they are out.

yep needs new clutch not thar hard to change new clutch feels nice thou

AbsoluteGTR: Changing clutches is a PITA in an AWD. Theres a couple different ways I've heard of it getting done, either A) dropping the tranny or B) pulling the whole motor and tranny which I hear is easiest. Since I am going to have to make one engine of two, I am just going to do it while they are out.

Pulling the motor, no thanks, lol.

I have read all over vfaq and tuners and they have threads in which they pull out the tranny. To tell you the truth dropping the tranny seems fairly easy, A little too easy actually.....
The only part I am skeptical about though is when you have to disconnect the drivers and passengers side axles. I am reading more about this part of the procedure, though.

Honestly as of now, I am trying to sell my car with the slipping clutch (ofcourse I tell prospective buyers this, so i have dropped my price...from $3500 obo to $2500 firm.) Anyways I feel that this a better choice for both seller and buyer, because the buyer will probably want to put in an aftermarket, maybe heavier duty clucth. I have one more week in autotrader, if I cant sell then I will just fix the clutch and TRY to sell again, lol.

Anyways, and body else have any advice/tips?

Thanks.

Good deal. Is it the 6 puck? If not would you consider just selling the PP? Are you parting her or what?

AbsoluteGTR: Changing clutches is a PITA in an AWD. Theres a couple different ways I've heard of it getting done, either A) dropping the tranny or B) pulling the whole motor and tranny which I hear is easiest. Since I am going to have to make one engine of two, I am just going to do it while they are out.

It's not a 6-puck. But I would give it to you for pretty cheap.


I'm not really parting the car out because there isn't much on the car to part out. I'm just going to be selling the motor and the tranny probably.

I pretty much already have a 90 awd talon tsi lined up with a built motor, that is basicly like my car is now but it actually runs.

My car just has to many electrical problems. Better to just sell the motor to someone who could use it.



Also, the best way to change the clutch and pull the tranny would be out of the right side. You will have to pull apart the right front suspension, but once you have that out of the way you pretty much unbolt everything and pull the tranny off. It will take probably 4-6 hours to take it off if you take your time, and maybe 2-4 to put it back together depending on your work ethic.

It's not really a bad job, just time consuming.

Also, the best way to change the clutch and pull the tranny would be out of the right side. You will have to pull apart the right front suspension, but once you have that out of the way you pretty much unbolt everything and pull the tranny off. It will take probably 4-6 hours to take it off if you take your time, and maybe 2-4 to put it back together depending on your work ethic.

It's not really a bad job, just time consuming.

Cool. i just dont like the idea of pulling apart the suspension. :shakehead Because then I gotta get an alignment, :disappoin

Wont I have to get my flywheel resurfaced? Is there a set step that it must be machined to, or does that cut depend on the clutch that you are using?

Cool. i just dont like the idea of pulling apart the suspension. :shakehead Because then I gotta get an alignment, :disappoin

Wont I have to get my flywheel resurfaced? Is there a set step that it must be machined to, or does that cut depend on the clutch that you are using?


It depends if the fly wheel needs it. If the flywheel is warped than it's going to need to be resurfaced. Just like brake rotors.

So you will just have to determine if it needs it or not.

It's not a 6-puck. But I would give it to you for pretty cheap.
Ok man, sounds good. Just let me know.

I've never heard of dropping the tranny like that, I like that idea. Where my parts car is now (and where its going to get parted) using a cherry picker isnt really an option and I've always been a little worried about how its going to come out. Well shit, we'll just strip everything down, take out the tranny like that, pull off the head, and then unbolt the block and just go in for it manually. Heh. Man I cant wait to work on cars again.

Alright guys I tried the following on my car today:

I was at 45 mph and in fifth gear and I gave it WOT. I steadily gained speed and my RPM steadily raised....WTF is up with that?

But if I am in like gears 1,2,3 If I give it gass the RPMS will skyrocket and my speed will ever so slowly increase. Could this be symptoms of something else?

EDIT**> I was just driving the car and decided to take L-specs advice:

I came to a stop and tried to move the car in fifth gear. Revved up like it was normal and tried to move, obviously no luck. So I then revved up to 4.5K and let out the clutch and the car just moved forward an inch or two, before cutting off. I then stuck my head out the window and almost threw up, lol. Man it stunk. I guess I need a new clutch... But then why, when I am at 40mph and put it in fifth and give it WOT I both increase speed and increase RPM?

sup dudes , got the same problem in my POS 01 eclipse , and my throw out bearing rattles like crap, how hard would it be to change the clutch and all on the 3rd gen? i changed the clutch in my prelude but looking at the setup of the eclipse gt, i dont know if i can do it .. any insight

I dont know, dont jack someone elses thread, and atleast post it in the correct forum. 2000+ Eclipse stuff goes in the 2000+ Eclipse section.

Starting out in 5th gear in ANY car, regardless of what clutch your running, if it's brand new or not, it will slip and burn the shit out of the clutch. That smell that you're smelling, that's 10k miles burning off of that thing so I would advise against that.

Absolute, I'm 99% sure that you're clutch took a shit, all the symptoms lead to it.

Starting out in 5th gear in ANY car, regardless of what clutch your running, if it's brand new or not, it will slip and burn the shit out of the clutch. That smell that you're smelling, that's 10k miles burning off of that thing so I would advise against that.

Absolute, I'm 99% sure that you're clutch took a shit, all the symptoms lead to it.

10K mls, wow, thanks L-spec! :screwy: :nono: :banghead: :wink:

gthompson, remember how you (in my previous thread) where saying that you highly doubt i was knocking? Well you were right. I hardwired the knock sensor and I still had horrible performance. So I think/hope now that it is clutch slippage.

Are there any tests that I can perform so I can be sure, before I replace my clutch and then find out tha it is not the source of my poor performance? I just want to be 100% sure.

Thanks

-Sami

EDIT> Any body have any idea on this: (took from previous post)

I was at 45 mph and in fifth gear and I gave it WOT. I steadily gained speed and my RPM steadily raised....WTF is up with that?

crankwalk

If it in fact was crankwalk, it would be getting worse and worse all the time, you could check crank endplay if you want, but I highly doubt that's what it is. The clutch will not always slip if it's just starting or recently started to go out, but it will get worse over time until it just quits grabbing at all. If you increase throttle in any gear and the rpms rise without gaining a similiar amount of speed, that's clutch slippage. Your post about 45mph in 5th gear at WOT, it's not putting enough strain on the clutch to cause it to slip, but if you downshifted to say 4th, or 3rd, you'll roast that puppy pretty good. The more load on the motor, the more the clutch is going to slip.

If it in fact was crankwalk, it would be getting worse and worse all the time, you could check crank endplay if you want, but I highly doubt that's what it is. The clutch will not always slip if it's just starting or recently started to go out, but it will get worse over time until it just quits grabbing at all. If you increase throttle in any gear and the rpms rise without gaining a similiar amount of speed, that's clutch slippage. Your post about 45mph in 5th gear at WOT, it's not putting enough strain on the clutch to cause it to slip, but if you downshifted to say 4th, or 3rd, you'll roast that puppy pretty good. The more load on the motor, the more the clutch is going to slip.

I have a 6-bolt, so I doubt it is crankwalk. As for what you said, about downshifting to 4th/3rd you are right...

I have a 6-bolt, so I doubt it is crankwalk.

i know you do, i was kidding about the crankwalk. im pretty sure its your clutch thats going out, as is everybody else here. good luck with replacing it.