Clutch decision

So I am faced with making my clutch decision much earlier than I expected. There is a local guy that took the 2600 that came in his car out. Well, the disk was shot, thats why it was slipping under higher boost. Well, where the disk is worthless, he said the pressure plate is fine and should be ok if you were to just buy a new disk. Well, I can get the pressure plate for pretty much nothing and a new sprung pucked clutch from extreme psi (my new favorite shop) is between like $110 and $125. Then the throw out bearings are only $20 so I will be getting a 2600 clutch setup for like $150-$170. Considering that new 2600's from extreme psi with the sprung 6 puck disk are like $460, I am willing to take a little bit of a chance on a used pressure plate. Oh yeah, I know people with the alignment tools, I wouldnt need to buy my own. My first question: Would you guys trust a used pressure plate? It looked ok in the pictures, but if I were to go and look at it, what would I look for for excess wear?

Ok, second round. For the disk. See, I dont want a street disk. I've driven a few pucked clutches with sprung centers and I cant handle them just fine. Well, if you look at the sprung pucked disks they have a 4 puck and a 6 puck. Which one would be best? Heres what I gathered:

4 puck - $110, quicker shifting due to reduced weight

6 puck - $125, for better engagement and better heat capacity

So I think the sprung 6 puck would be best for me, what do you guys think?

No one has two cents to throw at this?

Anyway, I changed my mind. I found a SBR 3500 pressure plate that looked a hell of a lot better than the 2600 PP and it was only $100. I am going to go that route and get a 6 pucked sprung clutch for it (ACT disks will work with it).

Well its a little late it seems but when you check a used pressure plate you just want to make sure there isnt any excess warping...you want to make sure its a flat surface...And I would double check to make sure the ACT disks will work with that pressure plate..from what I hear its bad to mix and match with clutch assemblys...and also I am just curious as to why you are getting a puck disk??

I just skimmed through reading your post, but things to look for are heat marks and such. I found out my pressure plate is no good anymore, so now I need to get a new one too for my brand new disc. :banghead:

How big is your left legs ? cause I drove my friend lancer and the car die couple time, my leg suck with that heavy clutch, I think it was 2900 or 2600

Ha ha, yeah, I can handle a stiffer clutch killer. 7-8 years of lifting, running, and biking does that to ya. ~320lb squat bitches :smokin:.

Ha ha, yeah, I can handle a stiffer clutch killer. 7-8 years of lifting, running, and biking does that to ya. ~320lb squat bitches :smokin:.

Good to know bitchet :wink: .

Everyone talks about how the 2600 needs a strong left leg...but on my car its not that bad....I mean its a little stiff but not so bad as to complain about it...

I'm a lazzy pussy and even I can handle the 2600.. If people don't want to have stiff peddle or increased pressure tell them not to build a fast car..

That not my point, my point is i never use 2600 on my car before, I drive it, but I dint drive it every day to get use to it, if I have it in my car in a week I will get use to it. First when I just learn how to drive stick, my friend acura intergra ( speel ) he had race clutch, and it really heavy and hard to learn drive stick from the first time, then I though every manual car clutch will be this hard to push on. Then I drove the eclipse and feel like butter.

im not sure if i would trust a used pressure plate. i would take a level to it or take it to a machine shop can make sure its flat. ive heard horror stories of plates going back and only burning up part of the clutch.