EGR blockoff plates
X2Xtreme360
11-13-2006, 03:19 PM
OK so I've run into a roadblock with my stalling issue, and I'm going to start changing things to pinpoint my problem. My CEL is illuminated because of the EGR system, and instead of replacing it for $120, I think I might try the blockoff plates for $50.
I just wan't to know a few things first. Is it just a matter of putting the plates in their places, or do you have to remove the entire system like the solonoid and temp sensor? How much fuel milage is lost? And has this thrown a CEL for anyone who has used them? I hear it only happens in Calli but I'm not sure if that's true or not.
I just wan't to know a few things first. Is it just a matter of putting the plates in their places, or do you have to remove the entire system like the solonoid and temp sensor? How much fuel milage is lost? And has this thrown a CEL for anyone who has used them? I hear it only happens in Calli but I'm not sure if that's true or not.
3kvr4
11-13-2006, 03:42 PM
OK so I've run into a roadblock with my stalling issue, and I'm going to start changing things to pinpoint my problem. My CEL is illuminated because of the EGR system, and instead of replacing it for $120, I think I might try the blockoff plates for $50.
I just wan't to know a few things first. Is it just a matter of putting the plates in their places, or do you have to remove the entire system like the solonoid and temp sensor? How much fuel milage is lost? And has this thrown a CEL for anyone who has used them? I hear it only happens in Calli but I'm not sure if that's true or not.
Do you even know what the good side of the EGR system Does? It does not look like it:popcorn:(<First one to use this smile!) . I dont think you want to heat up your block anymore and get some knock. And yes i read about it and did some research linebckr:grinyes:
I just wan't to know a few things first. Is it just a matter of putting the plates in their places, or do you have to remove the entire system like the solonoid and temp sensor? How much fuel milage is lost? And has this thrown a CEL for anyone who has used them? I hear it only happens in Calli but I'm not sure if that's true or not.
Do you even know what the good side of the EGR system Does? It does not look like it:popcorn:(<First one to use this smile!) . I dont think you want to heat up your block anymore and get some knock. And yes i read about it and did some research linebckr:grinyes:
Igovert500
11-13-2006, 04:05 PM
A) I never recommend changing to anything new when trying to pinpoint a problem. Why add something to the equation. I can't really see how the EGR system would be causing your stalling. I mean even if the valve was stuck open all the time, it normally is open at idle anyway (I believe...it should only close at full throttle), so that wouldn't make a difference. So unless you have some huge plenum leak in hte EGR pipe or something (which would be easy to find via pressure test)
Something like this:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/jcr5186/egr-pipe.jpg
...I don't see it being the problem. Speaking of which, have you pressure tested???
B) Are you sure that is the only code your ECU is showing? Perhaps scanning the codes will lead you to your problem.
C) EGR plates should throw a CEL on OBDII cars, and I believe hybrid ecus as well, so basically you are only good on 91-93s, without putting in some type of resistor to fool the ECU. Now I say SHOULD, because for some reason, some people have gotten away without ever getting an EGR code, however, typically you should expect one to come on. Even then, you will most likely fail any type of visual emissions inspection...and probably fail an exhaust sniffer.
D) You can just install the plates, or you can delete teh entire system...it's up to you. But again, if you don't have a 91-93, you may get additional CELs if you remove the EGR solenoid.
E) not really sure how much gas mileage suffers. It would only affect your gas mileage at partial throttle and low load, allowing more clean air into the combustion chambers, so your gas mileage may suffer a tad under those conditions...but again, I don't know how much.
F) if you insist on doing this, don't spend $50 for plates. Just cut some aluminum or something in the shape of the EGR gaskets, but without the hole in the middle and just use that. Save yourself $49.
Something like this:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/jcr5186/egr-pipe.jpg
...I don't see it being the problem. Speaking of which, have you pressure tested???
B) Are you sure that is the only code your ECU is showing? Perhaps scanning the codes will lead you to your problem.
C) EGR plates should throw a CEL on OBDII cars, and I believe hybrid ecus as well, so basically you are only good on 91-93s, without putting in some type of resistor to fool the ECU. Now I say SHOULD, because for some reason, some people have gotten away without ever getting an EGR code, however, typically you should expect one to come on. Even then, you will most likely fail any type of visual emissions inspection...and probably fail an exhaust sniffer.
D) You can just install the plates, or you can delete teh entire system...it's up to you. But again, if you don't have a 91-93, you may get additional CELs if you remove the EGR solenoid.
E) not really sure how much gas mileage suffers. It would only affect your gas mileage at partial throttle and low load, allowing more clean air into the combustion chambers, so your gas mileage may suffer a tad under those conditions...but again, I don't know how much.
F) if you insist on doing this, don't spend $50 for plates. Just cut some aluminum or something in the shape of the EGR gaskets, but without the hole in the middle and just use that. Save yourself $49.
X2Xtreme360
11-13-2006, 04:08 PM
Yea that's true. The block gets pretty damn hot. I'm pretty tight on cash right now. What's the lowest price I can get for the valve and probably a new hose as well. Or is there a replacement kit out there?
No I haven't pressure tested, and I have new gaskets on the way as well for the TB, upper/lower plenum/ and both valve covers. I think the first thing I should do is get the cheap stuff out of the way and see if that doesn't work, make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks, then move to the more expensive stuff like sensors and what not.
No I haven't pressure tested, and I have new gaskets on the way as well for the TB, upper/lower plenum/ and both valve covers. I think the first thing I should do is get the cheap stuff out of the way and see if that doesn't work, make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks, then move to the more expensive stuff like sensors and what not.
Igovert500
11-13-2006, 04:20 PM
Decent thread (http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=270114&page=1&pp=10&highlight=egr+knock) on EGR affects on gas mileage and knock.
Do you even know what the good side of the EGR system Does? It does not look like it:popcorn:(<First one to use this smile!) . I dont think you want to heat up your block anymore and get some knock. And yes i read about it and did some research linebckr:grinyes:
I tend to agree more with twospoons posts from the above thread. You can tell me recirculating exhaust back into the intake cuts down on oxygen levels and therefore reduces knock...fine. Besides the fact that if you are knocking at partial throttle and low-load...you have other problems...here are my thoughts:
a) exhaust gas is 1000+ degrees...that's a hell of alot hotter than intake temps.
b) egr = carbon deposits. Carbon deposits = hot spots. hot spots = knock.
The EGR system was added to reduce emissions, not aid gas consumption or reduce knock.
I've researched this alot too. And while EGR deletes will always be debated...just as much as underdrive pulleys, I personally lean towards deleting it.
Do you even know what the good side of the EGR system Does? It does not look like it:popcorn:(<First one to use this smile!) . I dont think you want to heat up your block anymore and get some knock. And yes i read about it and did some research linebckr:grinyes:
I tend to agree more with twospoons posts from the above thread. You can tell me recirculating exhaust back into the intake cuts down on oxygen levels and therefore reduces knock...fine. Besides the fact that if you are knocking at partial throttle and low-load...you have other problems...here are my thoughts:
a) exhaust gas is 1000+ degrees...that's a hell of alot hotter than intake temps.
b) egr = carbon deposits. Carbon deposits = hot spots. hot spots = knock.
The EGR system was added to reduce emissions, not aid gas consumption or reduce knock.
I've researched this alot too. And while EGR deletes will always be debated...just as much as underdrive pulleys, I personally lean towards deleting it.
X2Xtreme360
11-13-2006, 04:32 PM
Well I will say this. Whatever my problem is, it's eating my gas. Weather it's because I've restarted a million times because of constant stalling or peeling out in frustration. Before this week (when my problem began) I was getting 28MPG. (usually that's about 250 miles with half a tank left) This week I've driven about 230 miles and I'm almost at quarter tank. So whatever my problem is, I'm eating my gas up.
Linebckr49
11-13-2006, 06:19 PM
plugs and wires can help fuel economy? have you changed those? do you know when they were last changed? pull the front 3 plugs and inspect their condition.
X2Xtreme360
11-13-2006, 08:05 PM
yea that's on my list of things to do. But for 2 months my economy was 28MPG consistently. Up until one week ago it dropped drastically. Plugs usually go bad over time, not in 7 days.
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