Not Getting Fuel

I have a 1996 S-10 Blazer 4WD. I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started until the fluid ran out. Obviously a fuel problem. I noticed that when I turn the ignition on, I no longer hear the fuel pump priming. I do hear the relay click. Hope someone can shed some light on this issue and if it needs a fuel pump, what's involved in replacing it.

Thanks,

Jay

You might try changing the relay...if it's in the glovebox, you might try swapping it out with the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) relay to be sure.
Does the fuel gauge work? If so, this indicates a good ground at the fuel pump module.

There is a red fuel pump test wire located under the hood, on the drivers side inner fender, next to the black electrical junction box. It will be a red wire with a black or gray end and won't be connected to anything - just hanging there. Apply a 12v supply to this red fuel pump test wire and the fuel pump should run. (When you apply a 12V supply to the red fuel pump test wire it will by-pass all other electrical components in the fuel pump circuit)

If the fuel pump runs when applying a 12V jumper to the red fuel pump test wire, then check fuel pump pressure at shrader valve while pump is running. Pressure has to be above 60 psi for engine to start. If you have proper pressure, disconnect jumper wire and observe pressure drop, it should only drop 3-4psi. If it drops more than this the pressure regulator is probably bad.

If all the above checks out your pump is ok, in which case remove the jumper wire and with just the key turned on, conduct "A" and "C" below - (skip "B"). Remember, when the key is first turned on the pump only runs for 2 seconds and then the key must be off for 10 seconds before the pump will run for another 2 seconds.

If the pump doesn't run when a 12v jumper is applied:

(A) Disconnect the wiring harness at the fuel pump connector at the gas tank.

(B) Again apply a 12v supply to the red fuel pump test wire and leave it there while checking for current on the Grey wire at the fuel pump connector at the gas tank. You can check for current with a test light or volt meter, but in any case make sure you have a good ground when testing.

(C) If you have 12v on the Gray wire and the black wire is supplying a good ground and the pump doesn't run, make sure the connector at the gas tank is making a good connection. If pump still doesn't run, its toast and needs replaced.

Report back with your findings and we can take you further.

Do a search on this board for "fuel pump replacement" and you will find a how to.

I applied 12 volts to the red test wire and there was a sizzling sound and then it stopped like a fuse had blown. Now when I apply 12 volts to the red wire, I don't hear the sizzling sound and can't hear the fuel pump running either. I check the fuses in the panel and all are good. Does this sound familiar? Please let me know.

Thanks again,

Jay

Do above steps A, B & C.

If you don't have 12V on the Gray wire at the gas tank then look for a break in the Gray wire - between the gas tank and the fuse panel.

about that sizzling sound -- do you think it was more of a gushing sound like fluid ( gas ) rushing through the fuel line , followed by a click and then it stopped ? if so that means when you applied the 12 volts the pump primed as normal and you need to follow delcoch's instructions that will tell you if the pump is toast -which it likely is - but keep posting back with your findings so we can help you and maybe solve another mystery problem if you end up having one of those :banghead:

This red test wire that is dangling:: Can it also be a test port for testing relay? by inserting test light or dvm and turning on key?

Del is describing verification of components that are downstream, I am interest to know if it can be used to verify that everything upstream is good.

This red test wire that is dangling:: Can it also be a test port for testing relay? by inserting test light or dvm and turning on key?

Del is describing verification of components that are downstream, I am interest to know if it can be used to verify that everything upstream is good.


If it is the fuel pump test wire. It is hooked direct to the fuel pump and relay.
Correction on that. The red wire makes connection to the gray fuel pump inside relay.
Not really a good test wire.
Better to catch/hook onto the gray wire to fuel pump for a true test.
If it has 12 volts the relay circuit is working.
When jumping it for a test use fused jumper.
If it has 12 volts there it should have 12 volts to the fuel pump on gray wire.

I have a 1996 S-10 Blazer 4WD. I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started until the fluid ran out. Obviously a fuel problem. I noticed that when I turn the ignition on, I no longer hear the fuel pump priming. I do hear the relay click. Hope someone can shed some light on this issue and if it needs a fuel pump, what's involved in replacing it.

Thanks,

Jay
4.3 engine.?
Is this a W or X engine code?
For a W 4.3 engine fuel pump wiring.
http://members.troublecodes.net/crunch/96s10w.pdf