CV Boot Replacement?

Hello,

2000 Alero 3.4, 150k miles

While attempting to change the hub/bearing assembley yesterday, the universal joint on my socket shredded and tore a small hole in the outter CV boot. Has anybody replaced just the boot on one of these?

Everything was corroded and rusted together. It took a lot of time and effort just to get the rotor off. I was unable to get two of the hub/bearing bolts off. Any tips here?

Any help appreciated.

Once you pull off the hub bearing the CV joint will be accessable to replace the boot.

But youre stuck with the HUB?
I usually use a hammer and an old ratchet to break the bolts loose on the back of the steering knuckle thats holding the hub on. Hitting the end of the ratchet to break them loose.

Might try wd40 and clean out the area around the head of the bolts so the socket goes on all the way.

If you need anything else just holla!

Thanks.

Yep, they are time-welded in there...my pneumatic ratchet wrench doesn't have enough torque and my impact wrench is a little too big to get in there...hence the shredded u-joint socket.

I'll give it the old hammer treatment.

Of course my online subscription to the shop manual just expired in October...what is the specific type of grease I should use?

thanks again.

The boot should come with grease, if not any high temp bearing/cv joint grease will work.

You will also need a clamp tool to tighten/attach the new clamp on the CV boot-to-axle.

The Hub/bearing assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts torque @ 70 ft lbs.
The strut -to-steering knuckle nuts torque @ 133 ft lbs

This is a dirty pita job!

Last year I had a torn boot w/140k miles.
I just replaced both axles which was easier(and cleaner).
If you need other torque specs I'll see if I can find them!

Good Luck

I quit replacing boots on cars, Arebuilt axle assy. from the local parts store for most brands is around $50 exc. and has a warrarty with it