Looking for Opinions

I finally started taking the front end apart to pull the front differential off, and get the oil pan gasket replaced. I swore I wasn't going to be doing this stuff when its cold, but here I am in the garage, the leak is bad too. I took a good look at the pan and saw that I was missing three bolts on the pan, passenger side. Pretty much answers why I have a good oil leak. Either way the pan is coming off and new gasket.

I am going ahead and replacing the oil pump since I am there, and was just curious what people think about putting in a high volume oil pump on this. I was thinking about it, but I am not sure. Its not "really" needed, but maybe that extra volume may be alright. There are cooler lines to keep into consideration, weather they can handle the extra pressure and stuff, I really don't know what to say. Either way its getting a new pump, weather standard or high volume....

Oil pumps require horse power to drive them.
Higher volume will require more horse power to turn than standard volume.
High volume will have a stronger pressure relief spring that will raise the oil pressure (which you don't need) and also require more horse power to turn the pump.
The extra oil volume developed by either pump will squirt back into your oil pan and be a little warmer than if it had not been circulated through the pump.
So what a high volume oil pump will do for you is cost more, eat an unnoticeable amount of horse power and likewise decrease your fuel economy. And when you brag to your friends... or enemies, they won't really know the difference.

Cooler lines will not be a problem.

Be sure and take your used pump apart to inspect it for wear or damage. The experience and education will be worth what you pay for the new pump.

Unless you have an extra device or system that needs more flow (like turbos, valve spring coolers, or direct lube lifters) you probably don't need a high volume pump. I'd install a plain old Melling 55 and a 45 pound spring. Don't forget to either weld/braze on the pickup or use a bolt on brace. You don't want to have to pull the pan again.

I'd worry about the oil lines and go stock imo.
If you go back stock, it'll be interesting to know if the oil pressure improves or remains the same.

Yip, remember, those external lines going to the oil filter are only supposed to handle certain flow rates and pressures.

Stick to the stock pump.

Just an update on this thread, and to provide some insight. Well I did go with the standard Melling 55 pump. I went to an engine shop I have did business with before, and I asked for opinions on pumps and stuff. I have a lot of confidence in these guys and they are really good at their work. Basically they told me go with the standard pump because it is good enough, and that recently Melling redesigned their standard pumps for better performance (effecieny/volume) and it will do the job. Got the pump and it was indeed a little larger than to old one.
Everything came apart rather easy, not too much trouble with anything. The pan gave me a little trouble, but evetually it came off. I was surprised to see a large amount of sludge at the bottom of the pan. It was a good 3/4" thick, and you could see where the pick-up dish was in the pan. You could see also the synthetic oil was working on it, and the sludge was getting removed. It took me a good 2 hours to get the pan cleaned, in like new condition. At this point, I installed the pump and pan, and all was good to this point.
I ended up taking the front diff apart and cleaned it right up, checked bearings/races, installed new axle seals. It was dirty with tons of metal in the oil. It was clear that the front diff oil was never changed since new. After getting through it, put it all back together and threw it back in the truck.
Cleaned eveything up at this point, suspension parts, control arms, everything was cleaned up. Also, all rubber bushings were cleaned and I applied some rubber conditioner to try and keep them as soft as I can.
Everything came together good, got it together, started it up, and right off the bat, noticed no start-up noise, and oil pressure was much better, an average of 10 pounds better through all operating temperatures. At idle warm, it sits at about 35-40psi, cruising about 55psi cold start is about is about 60psi.

I am going to throw a couple of pictures up as I took a few shots of the pan, and stuff. I now notice that the valve cover is leaking more, most likely because of more oil pressure in the system, so that has to be looked at. Other than that, at least the oil pressure is back where I want it to be, and the oil pan is clean and not leaking. Now I can cross these two problems off the list....