Crate Motor

I just finished installing a crate 350 in my 89. How do I break it in?
Thanks,
Andrew

I dont know for how long you do this but when you drive it, take it easy on it. Verying the rpms. Since it is new, use synthetics in it. Another thing I found intersting is that GM tells you to use slick 50 when you buy the extended drivetrain warranty. So it must have some sort of effect.

Thank You for your input, I appreciate it.

How do I break it in?

Verrrrry carrrrrrrefully! :grinyes:

OK, seriously, I just installed a new engine in my '93 and asked the shop owner about towing my 5th wheel trailer during the break-in period (~500 miles). A paraphrase of his answer is...

Modern engines don't have as much of a problem with the break-in process because of advances in piston ring materials and designs. Drive it as you would normally, but don't take the trailer up any mountains just yet.

He also endorsed synthetics, which I plan on using at the 500 mile oil change, but I don't think he recommended it during the break-in period.

I think a good rule of thumb is to go easy on it but not TOO easy. The engine should experience a wide range of driving conditions, so constant highway miles is probably worse than a good mixture of conditions that include some higher output situations.

By the way, did you get a GM crate motor? I installed a Jasper engine - a better engine and way less expensive! It is "tight" and the oil pressure pegs the pressure relief valve during almost all driving conditions. I LIKE seeing 56 lbs of oil pressure when compared to my old GM motor!

I never heard of any problem using synthetics during breakin. You still want to change it at the 500 mile mark. The one thing that I didnt like about synthetics is the change intervals. I dont care if it doesnt break down as fast, it still gets dirty. I wont go farther than 5000 miles on a full synthetic. I still dont even like going 5000 on it. The important thing to remember is to use a wide range driving conditions, and very the rpms. Dont be hard on it, take it easier.

I never heard of any problem using synthetics during breakin.

With my observations about improved piston ring materials and designs, you're probably quite correct about using synthetics during the break-in period.

However, the extra cost of the synthetic during the break-in period doesn't gain you much when you change it at 500 miles anyway. I do agree that using synthetics should not be an excuse to push oil changes farther apart than with non-synthetics, as that would cancel out the benefits of using the synthetic in the first place.

I've got Mobil-1 ready and waiting for my 500 mile change, which is coming up soon.

With my observations about improved piston ring materials and designs, you're probably quite correct about using synthetics during the break-in period.

However, the extra cost of the synthetic during the break-in period doesn't gain you much when you change it at 500 miles anyway. I do agree that using synthetics should not be an excuse to push oil changes farther apart than with non-synthetics, as that would cancel out the benefits of using the synthetic in the first place.

I've got Mobil-1 ready and waiting for my 500 mile change, which is coming up soon.

True, using it within the breakin period can be costly, and probably wouldnt make a huge difference compaired with regular oil during this time. But, i would recomend using it after the break in.

I just finished installing a crate 350 in my 89. How do I break it in?

I agree to what this guy has to say on engine break-in.

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I just finished installing a crate 350 in my 89. How do I break it in?
Thanks,
Andrew

Rule of the thumb is to break it in like you are going to drive it.
Just vary the RPM by not holding a steady speed on break in.
Most rebuilders say to use the oil that the manf calls for.
I would not use synthetic for a breakin.

Wow, I guess I was way off by what it sounds like on that page. I dont know If I 100% trust those steps. I agree with verying the rpms on the engine, but I dont with the hard, full throttle runs. I didnt make this clear before, but use the synthetics after break in like the page says. I guess it all depends on what you feel is right.

Hey thanks for all the angles. I did get a GM motor w/ a 3 year/100,000 mi warrenty(which I apprieciate) I have put about 200mi on it and it has mostly been hiway. I also changed the oil at 100 miles and replaced w/ full synthetic. I hope its not too late to get her on the right track?......

Thanks again!!!

Break in any engine the way you want it to run

when you fire it up you gotta let it sit at about 2000 or 2500 rpm to let the cam break in for about 20 or 30 minutes, then drive it regularly for 500 miles or so and just dont romp on it till after that, although i have also heard that romping on it a few times helps set the rings in their right places