OEM GM Brake Pads

I am approaching 90,000 mi on my truck - still the original pads. I am starting to feel the need for pads and maybe rotors.

My question is if I buy the pads at the stealership, will I be getting the same OEM pads that were originally installed on my truck (bought new in Jan 2002). I have had zero problems with the brakes till this date.

I don't mind the xtra $$ - if I will get another 90,000 out of the new pads.

Thanks for any help.

you have a 2500HD. So unless you are hauling or towing frequently.. You will not need new pads. Have them checked before you fork out the money for new pads

you have a 2500HD. So unless you are hauling or towing frequently.. You will not need new pads. Have them checked before you fork out the money for new pads

I will

No towing, just hauling.

My old dodge went thru brake pads every 30,000. Even at 90,000 you don't think I need them yet?

I don't know about brake pads because I never saw it done but I did see tis with my own eyes at a Pontiac dealer here in my home town (which is no longer in business). An alternator went out on a brand new car did not have 20K miles on it they did not have one in stock and Atlanta where they get parts because it was a new type or something did not have one and did not know when they would get one. So they send the parts guy to Advance Auto to buy a rebuilt alternator to put on it not a new one but a rebuilt one takes it out of the advance box and puts it in an AC Delco box and gives it to the mechanic to put on. So you don't know what you are getting at the dealer.

I don't know about brake pads because I never saw it done but I did see tis with my own eyes at a Pontiac dealer here in my home town (which is no longer in business). An alternator went out on a brand new car did not have 20K miles on it they did not have one in stock and Atlanta where they get parts because it was a new type or something did not have one and did not know when they would get one. So they send the parts guy to Advance Auto to buy a rebuilt alternator to put on it not a new one but a rebuilt one takes it out of the advance box and puts it in an AC Delco box and gives it to the mechanic to put on. So you don't know what you are getting at the dealer.

And you wonder why they went out of business.
That is called fraud.

And you wonder why they went out of business.
That is called fraud.

Thats why I'm asking the question - I have never, repeat , never got this type of mileage out of pads for any vehicle I have owned. If this is pure GM quality - I am happy to pay. BTW, my truck has been very good to me also.

Speak about fraud, I know guys that have worked a well known oil change business - guess what - your oil never gets changed - just the filter.

My '88 Chevy 4X4 has 137K showing on the odometer it has not worked for five years, I am on my second set of front pads never done nothing to the rear and still have good lining on them but I am going to have to swap them pretty soon because I have a axle seal leaking. I attribute most of the life of the brakes to I am the only one that drives the truck and most of the miles is Interstate driving not city.

Do you have the fancy aluminum wheels? I can see my pads just by looking through the holes in the wheels, when it had its original wheels.

I have an 01 HD crew cab/short box w/the 6.0, and it too is a great truck. The HD chassis is really beefy, and has the best braking system I have ever dealt with. Some of the 1/2 ton Chevy trucks had the crappiest brakes known to exist, until they were updated w/rear discs.
Mine has 55K miles on the clock, and the pads still look like new. I would guess they are down maybe 20%. I seldom pull a trailer, frequently haul a load, and always haul ass. One thing I am careful with is how I use the brake pedal.

You won't need new rotors unless something happens and a pad goes metal-to-metal. The only time I use Delco pads, is when I can't get Bendix or Wagner.
I prefer Bendix ceramic pads, they seem to have better performance during the "wear-in" period. Also, have the rotors cut by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen bad results from idiots at the machine, only minimal material should be removed and it should almost have a shine to the finish. No gouges or funny scallops in the surface. I agree also that going to the dealer doesn't mean you'll get quality results.

As for the older Chevy's rear shoes? I've seen them go past 200K miles. Usually a fluid leak of some sort wipes them out before they actually wear out. The originals are of a hard compound, and awkward to replace.

By the way. How does the 8.1 run?
That is one I have not yet experienced.

I love the 8.1 all the way to the filling station - 10 mpg

Also, have the rotors cut by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen bad results from idiots at the machine, only minimal material should be removed and it should almost have a shine to the finish. No gouges or funny scallops in the surface. I agree also that going to the dealer doesn't mean you'll get quality results.


Rotors and drums should never be resurfaced during routine brake replacement unless there is a concern with runout, thickness variation (pulsation) or excessive scoring.
Resurfacing the rotors and drums reduces the brake effectiveness because of reduced contact area between the pad/shoe and metal until the metal becomes worn smooth.
Also refinishing should be done with a non-directional finish.

I will

No towing, just hauling.

My old dodge went thru brake pads every 30,000. Even at 90,000 you don't think I need them yet?


The 2500HD have very thick pads compared to the 1500's and if you do not haul and tow a lot.. they will last you well over 100K miles.
You said you do hauling, so that will put more wear and tear on the pads.. at 90K, I would at least get them checked out, just to be safe.

Do you have the fancy aluminum wheels? I can see my pads just by looking through the holes in the wheels, when it had its original wheels.

I have an 01 HD crew cab/short box w/the 6.0, and it too is a great truck. The HD chassis is really beefy, and has the best braking system I have ever dealt with. Some of the 1/2 ton Chevy trucks had the crappiest brakes known to exist, until they were updated w/rear discs.
Mine has 55K miles on the clock, and the pads still look like new. I would guess they are down maybe 20%. I seldom pull a trailer, frequently haul a load, and always haul ass. One thing I am careful with is how I use the brake pedal.

You won't need new rotors unless something happens and a pad goes metal-to-metal. The only time I use Delco pads, is when I can't get Bendix or Wagner.
I prefer Bendix ceramic pads, they seem to have better performance during the "wear-in" period. Also, have the rotors cut by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen bad results from idiots at the machine, only minimal material should be removed and it should almost have a shine to the finish. No gouges or funny scallops in the surface. I agree also that going to the dealer doesn't mean you'll get quality results.

As for the older Chevy's rear shoes? I've seen them go past 200K miles. Usually a fluid leak of some sort wipes them out before they actually wear out. The originals are of a hard compound, and awkward to replace.

By the way. How does the 8.1 run?
That is one I have not yet experienced.

my truck: http://themagicm.homelinux.org/phpgallery/picture.php?/967/category/25
Factory aluminums that came on '88s.

You'd be surprised how warped a rotor is that didn't have any signs of brake shake. Also a rotor wears uneven. The outer diameter's surface speed is faster than the inside area. So, that means that the rotor will wear more to the outside.

I have seen low performance issues w/new inferrior pads, but I strictly use Wagner/Bendix pads for my customers. Bendix premium pads have a special coating to eleminate the reduced effectiveness. The only issues that I have witnessed is when the customer provides their own pads. Even though the new brake performance was slightly less that what I would consider average, it wasn't such a big issue that people make it out to be. So I am lead to believe that my machine and my methods are better than average (and having better than average results).

I have had to repair countless people's mistakes over the years. Braking issues are the most frequent. I've heard it a thousand times, "My brother" or "My uncle (the best one is "My husband is a mechanic and he") worked on the car and now it shakes when I stop". Typically, pads were installed and the rotors weren't cut.

Instead of wasting time (and customer's money) checking run-out on rotors, I prefer using that time by actually producing work. A quick check w/a caliper gives a quick indication if a thickness is within spec. I will continue to cut rotors whenever I replace a set of pads, no matter what anyone else has to say.

You'd be surprised how warped a rotor is that didn't have any signs of brake shake. Also a rotor wears uneven. The outer diameter's surface speed is faster than the inside area. So, that means that the rotor will wear more to the outside.

I have seen low performance issues w/new inferrior pads, but I strictly use Wagner/Bendix pads for my customers. Bendix premium pads have a special coating to eleminate the reduced effectiveness. The only issues that I have witnessed is when the customer provides their own pads. Even though the new brake performance was slightly less that what I would consider average, it wasn't such a big issue that people make it out to be. So I am lead to believe that my machine and my methods are better than average (and having better than average results).

I have had to repair countless people's mistakes over the years. Braking issues are the most frequent. I've heard it a thousand times, "My brother" or "My uncle (the best one is "My husband is a mechanic and he") worked on the car and now it shakes when I stop". Typically, pads were installed and the rotors weren't cut.

Instead of wasting time (and customer's money) checking run-out on rotors, I prefer using that time by actually producing work. A quick check w/a caliper gives a quick indication if a thickness is within spec. I will continue to cut rotors whenever I replace a set of pads, no matter what anyone else has to say.


Well you and I may disagree on turning rotors.
Turning a rotor leaves peaks and valleys and reduces the contact surface area between the metal and the friction material.
Performing proper measurements prior to performing a brake service on a customers vehicle saves the customer money.
If the rotors are smooth and do not have the following concerns
Thickness variation in excess of the maximum allowable specification
Excessive corrosion/rust and/or pitting
Cracks and/or heat spots
Excessive blueing discoloration
Scoring of the disc brake rotor surface in excess of the maximum allowable specification
Brake rotor assembled lateral runout (LRO) that exceeds the maximum allowable specification.
They do not need to be resurfaced.
If you resurface the rotors, you remove metal and reduce the service life of the rotor, which means the customer will have to purchase new rotors sooner.
Plus you are less productive and costing the customer money because you are doing unnessary repairs (turning rotors) to the customers vehicle.
Also,burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.
This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.
Also how do you tighten the customers lug nuts?
Improper wheel tightening after tire rotation, spare tire usage, brake inspection, etc. can be the cause of pulsation. Again, it usually takes 4,800 - 16,000 km (3,000 - 10,000 mi) AFTER an event for the condition to surface. The proper usage of torque wrenches and/or torque sticks (torque limiting sockets) will greatly reduce or eliminate the pulsation conditions after wheel service events. The improper use of impact wrenches on wheel nuts greatly increases the likelihood of pulsation after wheel service. :2cents:

Ooooooohhhhhhhhhh, Mr.Goodwrench.
I thought you sounded familiar. You do sound like the guys at the dealership.

I didn't mean to step on any toes (or smash someone's finger) by stating the you don't always get quality service by going to the dealer. You won't always get quality results by going to an independant either. It's like looking for a good attourney too, kind of hit-and-miss.

How long have you been a factory tech?

Ooooooohhhhhhhhhh, Mr.Goodwrench.
I thought you sounded familiar. You do sound like the guys at the dealership.

I didn't mean to step on any toes (or smash someone's finger) by stating the you don't always get quality service by going to the dealer. You won't always get quality results by going to an independant either. It's like looking for a good attourney too, kind of hit-and-miss.

How long have you been a factory tech?
This isn't about dealers vs. independants and who is better.
This is about doing the job correctly and giving the customer a quality job at a fair price.
We are talking about SAFETY. Brakes and braking systems are safety systems and should not be taken lightly, nor should they be worked on by inexperianced homeowners or mechanics.:2cents:

How long have I been a factory tech....over 20 some years. ASE recertified for 20 years, GM World Class Technician..what else do you want?

Servicing brake pads is a no-brainer.
At least find something worthwhile to argue about.
Mr. Spackel just wanted an opinion on GM brake pads.

My advice: Get a set of Bendix pads.

You said:
“Servicing brake pads is a no-brainer.
At least find something worthwhile to argue about.
Mr. Spackel just wanted an opinion on GM brake pads.”

Dude, you crack me up. It’s your complacency about braking systems that scares me. Obviously you have never been involved in a lawsuit involving a vehicle collision and a recent brake job.
I was called as a technical advisor and witness on proper brake repair procedures in a case involving an improperly done brake job and a fatal car wreck. The family of the victim won the case.
In my shop NO ONE touches a brake pad or performs any brake related services until they have completed all GM training related to brake systems and have successfully passed and received their ASE certification in brakes. There also must be a properly filled out brake worksheet attached to the repair order.
Also ALL technicians MUST torque wheel nuts to proper specifications using a torque wrench or proper torque stick.There are no exceptions.
Like I said before Brakes are a SAFETY item and should not be taken lightly..It scares me that people like you think “Servicing brake pads is a no-brainer.” Because my family is out there on the road with people driving around on improperly serviced braking systems…thank God they are not in Texas.

You said
“I have had to repair countless people's mistakes over the years. Braking issues are the most frequent. I've heard it a thousand times, "My brother" or "My uncle (the best one is "My husband is a mechanic and he") worked on the car and now it shakes when I stop". Typically, pads were installed and the rotors weren't cut.”
How untrue, you don’t install pads and the car suddenly shakes.
If the rotors were not indexed to the hub correctly this will cause LRO issues due to stacked tolerance differences or if the lug nuts were not properly torqued, this will cause LRO issues in about 3000 miles.
Here is one of my quotes from earlier
“Improper wheel tightening after tire rotation, spare tire usage, brake inspection, etc. can be the cause of pulsation. Again, it usually takes 4,800 - 16,000 km (3,000 - 10,000 mi) AFTER an event for the condition to surface.”
Rotors don’t warp because new pads were installed..there is a root cause.

Not an argument, just the facts.
To Mr. Spackel.
If you are happy with the wear and characteristics of the pads you have on your truck..use GM.
If you want an aftermarket alternative that I would feel comfortable with, go with Raybestos.

Ha, Ha! He said "Proper torque stick." To me, there is no such thing, and a torque tester proves it. Anyone going near one of my vehicles with one of those is going to walk away oddly, wondering where his "calibrated torque limiting torsion bar" may have gone - Until he sits down. I HATE those things. It takes only two minutes more to do it properly with a calibrated Torque-O-Meter. I'm glad to hear you're using torque wrneches instead.

Building muscle cars and custom bikes from the ground up takes talent.
Modding transmissions of all types for track abuse takes experience (not to mention, making the lame 4L60E worthy of towing duties).
Building 800+ horse power engine combos takes know-how.

Custom exhaust, performance gear trains, heating/a.c., electronics, suspension/steering, fabrication,etc...I can do it all.
C/P/D, F/L/M/, C/GMC/P/Corvette/H, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, etc... I'm not limited by brand either. I've done it all.
Tractors, hay bailers, heavy machinery, etc... I was part of a John Deere dealership team also. I was wrenching on high powered turbo diesel engines before they ever thought about introducing them into the automotive field.
So, to repeat myself AGAIN!!! Replacing a set of pads and cutting a pair of rotors is no strain on the brain for me (diagnosing certain ABS problems is a different issue). I do have a torque wrench and I do keep it handy, as well as my quick spec book that includes lug nut torque values. Remember to check for rusty scale and dirt between the rotor hat too (you forgot that one). It would be part of that root.

People come here to figure out their problems. There's other people that actually have the knowledge and experience to help. It's people like you (Merlin) that give people like you a bad name. This is a very respectable forum and you shouldn't tell others that they are flat incorrect. Someone might take offense to your lack of respect. Have an opinion, yes. You shouldn't lash out when you feel threatened with superiority (I know your type well, and I can stoop to your level).

I can't help but laugh. "Stealerships", that was a good one Mr.Spackel.

Building muscle cars and custom bikes from the ground up takes talent.
Modding transmissions of all types for track abuse takes experience (not to mention, making the lame 4L60E worthy of towing duties).
Building 800+ horse power engine combos takes know-how.

Custom exhaust, performance gear trains, heating/a.c., electronics, suspension/steering, fabrication,etc...I can do it all.
C/P/D, F/L/M/, C/GMC/P/Corvette/H, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, etc... I'm not limited by brand either. I've done it all.
Tractors, hay bailers, heavy machinery, etc... I was part of a John Deere dealership team also. I was wrenching on high powered turbo diesel engines before they ever thought about introducing them into the automotive field.
So, to repeat myself AGAIN!!! Replacing a set of pads and cutting a pair of rotors is no strain on the brain for me (diagnosing certain ABS problems is a different issue). I do have a torque wrench and I do keep it handy, as well as my quick spec book that includes lug nut torque values. Remember to check for rusty scale and dirt between the rotor hat too (you forgot that one). It would be part of that root.

People come here to figure out their problems. There's other people that actually have the knowledge and experience to help. It's people like you (Merlin) that give people like you a bad name. This is a very respectable forum and you shouldn't tell others that they are flat incorrect. Someone might take offense to your lack of respect. Have an opinion, yes. You shouldn't lash out when you feel threatened with superiority (I know your type well, and I can stoop to your level).

I can't help but laugh. "Stealerships", that was a good one Mr.Spackel.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Mr. Spackel just wanted an opinion on GM brake pads.”

I'm no expert, like you guys, at doing brakes, but I have done enough vehicles to feel good about my work.

Based on my experience, 90,000 miles and counting, from the original brake pads is incredible. GM did something right, at least in this case.

My question still remains - Is GM using the same manufacturer for brake pads now as they were in 2001 - 2002 and is it worth the extra $$ to buy the pads from GM.

The other fact that I failed to mention, is that I don't get the brake dust accumulation on the wheels.

I want to say Thank You again for all the input.

GM brakes are pretty good as far as the pads go. And your right, they do not acculated brake dust. the 2500 pads are much thicker than the 1500's. That is why you not worn them down. they twice as thick as the pads on the 1500.

I beleive GM is using the same brake pads as they have been since 99.

Based on my experience, 90,000 miles and counting, from the original brake pads is incredible. GM did something right, at least in this case.

My question still remains - Is GM using the same manufacturer for brake pads now as they were in 2001 - 2002 and is it worth the extra $$ to buy the pads from GM.

The other fact that I failed to mention, is that I don't get the brake dust accumulation on the wheels.

I want to say Thank You again for all the input.

The answer to your question is yes, they are the same.
Just like everything else, everyone has an opinion on which ones are best.
If you are happy with the pads on your truck now, go with what you know.
Remember that you are talking about a safety item, so don't cut corners and go cheap.
Good luck and sorry for the pissing contest.
If you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM

I'm no expert, like you guys, at doing brakes, but I have done enough vehicles to feel good about my work.

Based on my experience, 90,000 miles and counting, from the original brake pads is incredible. GM did something right, at least in this case.

My question still remains - Is GM using the same manufacturer for brake pads now as they were in 2001 - 2002 and is it worth the extra $$ to buy the pads from GM.

The other fact that I failed to mention, is that I don't get the brake dust accumulation on the wheels.

I want to say Thank You again for all the input.
Yes that is one thing I have seen on the OEM pads is less dust just about all makes. I had a Toyota Tacoma put on new pads could not keep the wheels clean. Spent $75 for a OEM set no more dust.

Yes that is one thing I have seen on the OEM pads is less dust just about all makes. I had a Toyota Tacoma put on new pads could not keep the wheels clean. Spent $75 for a OEM set no more dust.

I went to GM Parts Direct, pads for the the front or rear will cost about $110 per pair (includes shipping).

Will call the stealer tomorrow to what the $$ is.

I am approaching 90,000 mi on my truck - still the original pads. I am starting to feel the need for pads and maybe rotors.

My question is if I buy the pads at the stealership, will I be getting the same OEM pads that were originally installed on my truck (bought new in Jan 2002). I have had zero problems with the brakes till this date.

I don't mind the xtra $$ - if I will get another 90,000 out of the new pads.

Thanks for any help.

Go the GM OEM brake pads if you want the best for your truck.
Yes they are same pads that came on your truck.
And they come with all of the hardware you need for installation.
As far as price the GM pads with a discount are close to the Good OEM type after market major brand pad.
I have only found 10-15$ difference and you consider the mounting hard ware about the same price.
And remember Dealer OEM only hurts one time.
That cheap after market stuff can bit you in the rear many times.

I can check with my parts suppliers and see who has the best deal.
My General Motors wholesale price would be cheper than any over-the-counter retail listing. I'll try to save you some bucks, it's up to you. Post some prices on what you find and I'll see what I can come up with.

Mt-2500 is correct, G.M (and Motorcraft) sets usually do come with caliper hardware. Most of the Wagner part numbers that I purchase include it also. There is the usual crappy aftermarket garbage, but there is quality aftermarket too. Can't go wrong w/factory replacements.

I can check with my parts suppliers and see who has the best deal.
My General Motors wholesale price would be cheper than any over-the-counter retail listing. I'll try to save you some bucks, it's up to you. Post some prices on what you find and I'll see what I can come up with.

Mt-2500 is correct, G.M (and Motorcraft) sets usually do come with caliper hardware. Most of the Wagner part numbers that I purchase include it also. There is the usual crappy aftermarket garbage, but there is quality aftermarket too. Can't go wrong w/factory replacements.

Thanks, will do.

I know this is an old thread but my truck has 165K and I am just now replacing the pads on the front. The rear I waited too long to replace. I have also talked to a couple other guys who have the same truck and was common to get 130K out of their pads. Unbelievable!

Whoa you guys are serious, rotors are like 15-20 bux anyway so pad slapping is pointless in my eyes. Plus I have pad slapped before with quality pads (ATE and wagner) and have had numorous comebacks with glazed surfaces and pulses. I also live in the salt belt so rotors dont last long enough for 2 sets of pads. Just my 2 cents.

Driver has a lot to do with brake pad wear.

1999 Silverado 1500 Extended Cab, 4.3V8, 156K miles. I have not had a brake job since I bought the truck in fall of 1998. Just had it in the dealership for oil change about 2 weeks ago and they checked my brakes and said I'm still good to go. When I do need a brake job, I want the OEM parts that came on the truck when I bought it. I have never had brakes that lasted this long (nor have I met anyone else who has this many miles on their vehicles with zero brake replacement).

1999 Silverado 1500 Extended Cab, 4.3V8, 156K miles. I have not had a brake job since I bought the truck in fall of 1998. Just had it in the dealership for oil change about 2 weeks ago and they checked my brakes and said I'm still good to go. When I do need a brake job, I want the OEM parts that came on the truck when I bought it. I have never had brakes that lasted this long (nor have I met anyone else who has this many miles on their vehicles with zero brake replacement).

Well; you have now. I have 171K miles on the original drivetrain and brakes.

I'm on my third set of tires though. It's my daily driver commuting in San Diego traffic.. but I'm a coaster.. not a brake slammer.

-Tom D
Edit
2002 1500 4.8 V8 + camper shell.