97 Escort 2.0 P1443 Code

I finally got my hands on the Escort and read the codes, I am getting a P1443 code. I check my list of codes and cannot find that code listed, does anyone happen to have any input on this and what the fix could be.

All help is appreciated!

I Googled it and found this...

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1443 indicates a failure in the EVAP canister purge valve circuit. The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Purge (CP) valve controls the flow of vapors from the fuel vapor storage canister to the intake manifold during various engine operating modes.

The canister purge valve is located at the LH front of the engine compartment, below the air cleaner assembly.


Look here for pictures:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl489h.htm

I got rid of the code, had a bad vacuum hose to the purge valve. Engine runs pourly on all 4, I need do a vacuum and compression test and it seems as though #4 cyl. is the weakest. Is this common on these or did I just get lucky, only looking at 104K on the odometer.

Over 200K on mine and I have never messed with the purge valve or canister.

Was it running poorly before you fixed the vacuum leak or is this a sudden new symptom?

Bobmon,
Do a search on "valve inserts". Cyl #4 is the most likely one to have the problem of dropping a valve insert.

One daughter's '97 dropped one at 143k. Another daughter's '97 (I'm just lucky!) now has 125k and has not yet had the problem ... I may do pre-emptive surgery.

BTW, both have had the vacuum hose problem on the EVAP system.

12Ounce,

Thanks for the info, I picked up the car for $300 from a guy I work with and he told me that he replaced the head (used) due to head gasket failure and has never gotten it to run right. He also changed the coil pack, new wires, battery, TPS and a number of other things so I thought I could do something with this car. I found out that it needs a new radiator which is no big deal but do I really have to tear down the engine and get the head worked on?

Thanks,

Bob

Well you mentioned the vylinders are weak.... it is going to be either bad head gasket, loose valve seats, or something of the sort that requires you to take it apart.
I suppose if you are lucky it could just be a dead spark plug or something. When you do your compression test you will know a lot more.

Getting the head off is not that big of a deal. The worst part of it is getting the timing cover removed. Once that is off it goes real quick. The head, intake and exhaust manifolds can be removed in one piece.

You could take off the heads with intake and exhaust manifolds attach, perhaps ... but I would recommend you separate them all. You never know what surprises may be covered up (such as broken gaskets on either side of the intake manifold runner assembly).

Well I did the compression check and of course #4 is dead completly, the rest are as listed #1 180, #2 160, #3 180. There is plenty of spark at 4 so I am going to remove the head, when I look in the plug hole from #4 all I see is a nice shiny piston with oil on top of it. I hope that the compression rings are not bad, if so I will either get a short block or rebuild it. Does any one happen to know what the problem could be with what I have described? I did check the rotation of the camshaft and the valves appear to at least be going up and down.

Thanks,

Bob

With someone else already having been "in" the engine ... it could be any one of a couple dozen things. Is the piston moving when the crankshaft rotates?

Well I got the head off and #4 combustion chamber has been beaten to death, I can understand the problem now. What I do not understand is that even though #2 had 160psi for compression, there is a nice piece of piston missing on the intake side and the upper ring is exposed. So, do I spend the money for a new/used head and put it back together or do I rebuild/buy a new engine?

If I knew how to download the pictures I have to this posting I would.

Well thta is a decision that only you can make. Find out how much it is going to cost and whether or not you can do the repairs on your own.
Much of the disassembly is done... you don't have to go a lot further to remove a couple pistons. Take the head into a shop and see if they can resurface it to a serviceable condition. If you opt to get a used head, get one that you know has been rebuilt. Don't just pull one off another car or you could have the same problem in a week.
If you aren't a doi it yourselfer, consider towing costs to get it to the shop.
Personally, I would opt for the repair. It may be expensive, but once it is running again it will be reliable for a long time.

The problem I am having is locating a new block for this thing, I cannot just install new pistons and rings without having the block redone, doing the work is not a problem, finding a place to get it done is and I would assume the cost. I found a new head at Auto Zone for $300 but the lower end is going to cost alot more than that.

You mentioned the pistons were damaged.... were the cylinder walls or other parts of the block damaged too?
There is a short block on ebay for $400 plus $150 shipping. If you are up for a an engine swap you may be interested in getting a long block and just dropping a new one in.
Hopefully you can find a way to repair what you have though.

I checked out the block on Ebay, it is for local pick-up only there is no shipping on this item. The walls do not seem to be damaged, the number 2 piston has a piece missing on the intake valve side of the piston and the ring is exposed. It seems funny that the compression of this cylinder was 160psi the others were 180psi except #4 was completly dead.

If your cylinder walls are fine, you should be able to replace the pistons as necessary and keep the same block.

The discrepancy in cylinder readings is likely due to the bad valce on the #4. Though the other piston is damaged, it still manages to maintain compression. On the #4 your valve is likely damaged so that there is no compression.

Anyway... look in to replacing pistons and getting the head redone. It is surely the cheaper way to go. If you have the means to do this on your own, even better.

Ok, I have the block at a machine shop being redone, they are going to install new pistons rings and all bearings. I took the cylinder head to a shop and they are telling me it is cracked so now I need a new head (these are tough to find) I was wondering if I could install a DOHC head from the 2.0 since these are easier to find. Does anyone know if the blocks are the same on the SOHC and DOHC 2.0 escort engines?

Ok, I have the block at a machine shop being redone, they are going to install new pistons rings and all bearings. I took the cylinder head to a shop and they are telling me it is cracked so now I need a new head (these are tough to find) I was wondering if I could install a DOHC head from the 2.0 since these are easier to find. Does anyone know if the blocks are the same on the SOHC and DOHC 2.0 escort engines?

Does anyone happen to have a good head for the 2.0 SPI? also, would it be difficult to go from an auto tranny to the 5 speed?

Changing the tranny involves quit a bit, including a different PCM and various sensors.

I took a quick look on Google and found a few companies that have rebuilt heads... looks to cost around $300 or so. I was surprised ebay didn't have any, but sometimes you just have to type in the right thing to get them to turn up.

"Dover" is the only place I would consider for a cyl head repair. They have done several for me, even cracked ones, and I have never been disappointed in their work or price. They have several locations throughout the Southeast.

http://www.doverusa.com/