Main caps
capriceowns
11-09-2006, 11:42 PM
I have my 1981 350 4-bolt. Im starting re assembly on it now (its going into my caprice)But the guy I bought it from didnt number the main caps, and he said he doesnt remeber which one went were.
Do I have to know were they went? I talked to a few shops around me, and align boring is 200-250$:banghead:is there any kind of measuring I can do to find out which caps fits were?
(I know the 2 end ones dont matter, Im talking more bout the middle 3)
Do I have to know were they went? I talked to a few shops around me, and align boring is 200-250$:banghead:is there any kind of measuring I can do to find out which caps fits were?
(I know the 2 end ones dont matter, Im talking more bout the middle 3)
silicon212
11-10-2006, 12:34 AM
I have my 1981 350 4-bolt. Im starting re assembly on it now (its going into my caprice)But the guy I bought it from didnt number the main caps, and he said he doesnt remeber which one went were.
Do I have to know were they went? I talked to a few shops around me, and align boring is 200-250$:banghead:is there any kind of measuring I can do to find out which caps fits were?
(I know the 2 end ones dont matter, Im talking more bout the middle 3)
You don't need an alignBORE, but you will need an alignHONE - I am not sure, but I think $250 for an alignbore/hone is EXPEN$IVE! I paid $30 to have a block alignbored, due to a spun main bearing, out here in AZ two years ago.
I suppose you MIGHT be able to use an inside micrometer, expanded in the main landing, turned in a complete 360 both directions - if there's ANY sort of bind, move the caps around until it doesn't bind, but *CAUTION*WARNING* this is sort of the "redneck" way of doing it, and is not backed by anyone with any knowledge of engine building, myself included. My advice is look for another machine shop, and make sure that any future block you get has the main caps marked.
Keep those arrows pointing forward.
Do I have to know were they went? I talked to a few shops around me, and align boring is 200-250$:banghead:is there any kind of measuring I can do to find out which caps fits were?
(I know the 2 end ones dont matter, Im talking more bout the middle 3)
You don't need an alignBORE, but you will need an alignHONE - I am not sure, but I think $250 for an alignbore/hone is EXPEN$IVE! I paid $30 to have a block alignbored, due to a spun main bearing, out here in AZ two years ago.
I suppose you MIGHT be able to use an inside micrometer, expanded in the main landing, turned in a complete 360 both directions - if there's ANY sort of bind, move the caps around until it doesn't bind, but *CAUTION*WARNING* this is sort of the "redneck" way of doing it, and is not backed by anyone with any knowledge of engine building, myself included. My advice is look for another machine shop, and make sure that any future block you get has the main caps marked.
Keep those arrows pointing forward.
Rebel Racing 3
11-17-2006, 11:02 AM
I think call around because we have our race blocks done and it cost like 80 in nm
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