Serpentine belt replacement.

45,500 miles on our 03 and the belt looks good but for $27. I can get a new one and put it on myself. I think the manual says replace at 60K miles but has anyone had experience with them breaking early on? Few months ago someone said the Good Year Gator Back is good.

EDIT: HAHA! I checked the manual and for the 150,000 mile service it says if the belt hasn't been changed in 100,000 miles it should be changed. Well, . . . DDUUHH . . .

I don't know about breaking early. On my 98 Duratec I changed the belt at 60,000 just to be safe. Now I'm at 200,000 with a new belt in the trunk that I'm hoping to change this weekend. After 140,000 miles it definitely looks old. If I didn't have winter weather to contend with, I'd probably keep it on a little longer just to see if it could go 150,000.

I've got almost 90K on my original belt on my 99 Taurus. Found some cracks when replacing the water pump so I'm replacing it soon too.

Thank ya'll for replying. I like to play it safe with critical items and rather than break a belt and be broke down on the side of the road I'd rather spend the $25. bucks or so and replace it at my liesure.

I travel a lot of very rural areas and I have always changed my serpentine belts in the 35 to 40 K range. It may be overkill but peace of mind is worth it for me.

The Gatorback is an excellant choice and while you have it off I would also change the idler pully. I have had several Taurus and they have failed a couple of times.

Mike
:smokin:

I changed my belt at 65K. The old belt was good, no cracks, it goes to the spare tire well as an emergency belt. I installed a dayco, but saw one at walmart for $15 marked Prestone.

Prestone belts: Here's a bunch. http://shopping.msn.com/results/shp/?bCatId=9486,av=12-12,av=2-4707425

I scoped out the route of the belt out and considering the twisting and turning, bending and flexing, it is really hard to understand why they don't get hot and fly apart the first hundred miles on the Interstate. Must be made out of good stuff. . . . .

The Gatorback is an excellant choice
Are these sold only at Goodyear stores?

"Are these sold only at Goodyear stores?" No Sir. Locally they have them at Auto Zone. http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/cars/gatopoly.html
Look at the top menu, "Where To Buy," and you'll see who carries them. At the time I had never heard of Gator Back and all I asked was how much is a serpent belt for a 03 Taurus and best I recall they said $27.00 didn't say what kind and I didn't ask. Don't recollect who it was, but somewhere in our discussions it was said they are the best belt going.

I used the forum search engine and got a heck of a lot of hits, so check 'em out. http://www.automotiveforums.com/search/index.php?domains=www.automotiveforums.com&q=gator+back&sa=Search&sitesearch=www.automotiveforums.com&client=pub-2911997839133131&forid=1&channel=1320633258&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&flav=0000&sig=xj2sALBGxv03Twmd&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23336699%3B VLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BLBGC%3 AFFFFFF%3BALC%3A0000FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000% 3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BFORID%3A11&hl=en

WHOA! Quite a long html and I hope it works for you.

http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/arp1/jsp/StartCarSearch.jsp;jsessionid=0000xuT6jsMP8LxZIB8J 3chZwNE:uur6d6ic
That's for my 03 with the Vulcan screamer. <Grin>

Punch in your zip code and there you go.
http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/wheretobuy/index.html

Punch in your zip code and there you go.
Hehehe... this is funny. We punched in our zipcode and it gave us a long list of places. We called each one but not one said that they carried the Gatorback :p We will just go to AutoZone. I did a search on the Goodyear Gatorback belts and everyone seems to really love them, especially those with high performance engines. Seems the belts lasts 3 times longer and has a special v-grove design that grips the pulleys better. I figure if I'm going to replace it, I might as well use the best possible parts :)

I punched in my zip again and this time it didn't show ANY place here that has them. I can order on line for $26.99 part no 4060855 or wait until I go to the big city and get one. OK, going to catch me a little nap before the boss lady comes home. <Grin-Yawn>

We just bought our Gatorback but just our luck the parts guy tells us that we needs TWO of them :( One for power steering/AC and one just for the water pump.

Do you guys think we should also replace the pulleys? It's got around 90K miles on it.

It was me that said they were great. I have used them for a long time.

I previously said I probably change them too often but if you are gonna go long periods without changing that is the belt I would do it with.

Also if I remember correctly even my 94 only had one belt.

AZ is not known for having the brightest of help but I ahve purchased them for 3 different Taurus, Isuzu Rodeo, F150,Chevy P/U Olds 88.

The pulleys usually will start making noise for a few hundred miles before they fail but with my job I am always a few hundred miles from home. For under $20.00 it is pretty good peace of mind.

Mike
:smokin:

MyTaurus8AChevy = If I were you I replace both but there's only one on my 03.

mwt878991 - Thanks for turning us on to the GatorBack, you done good there Bro'. While I was Googling & researcning I saw where NASCAR race cars and other high performers use them, so I reckon if it's good enough for them it's good enough for my screaming Vulcan. :ylsuper: I sure have learned a lot in this forum and it's good when folks get together and share their knowledge.

there's only one on my 03.
I found it. It's on the back of the engine, but no visible way to install it :(

"I found it. It's on the back of the engine, but no visible way to install it."
HUH? Sorry but you lost me there. The serpent belt on mine is on the left side and one belt runs everything, water pump, alternator & AC plus the idler and tension pulley. Looks like tight work space to me so if I can find a shop to replace it at a resonable price I'll let them do it.

Past my bed time so nite-nite and enjoyed chewing the fat with ya.' :)

I found it. It's on the back of the engine, but no visible way to install it :(


Takes about 5 minutes.

You will find it easier to do with a Serpentine belt tool.

Put it on the belt tension pull forward and the tensioner will release the belt.

The is a pinned thread at the beginning of the Taurus forums and you can download the repair manuals.

Mike
:smokin:

The serpent belt on mine is on the left side and one belt runs everything, water pump, alternator & AC
I wish I only had one belt :wink: A Duratech has one serpentine on the front for the power steering and AC, and one in the back for the water pump. The front one is a standard serpretine replacement with the tensioner, but the rear one has no tensioner and no way to make adjustments, so I'm lost as to how to put it on :p

Put it on the belt tension pull forward and the tensioner will release the belt.
There is no visible tensioner for the water pump (rear) belt. Can't download the manuals because we have dial-up :wink:

My 03 Vulcan belt is in a tight place and I never replaced one before. Which one is the tensioner pulley? I know to put a socket wrench on the tensioner front nut and apply pressure until the belt loosens enough to slip the old belt off and put on the new belt. There's no diagram for the belt route under the hood so have to make a drawing of which pulleys and the direction it goes around. If I made any erros let me know and basically tell me which pulley I should use to loosen the belt. I know not to take the nut off, just use it as a lever to loosen the belt.

I have to go to town today so might swing by the Ford dealer and let them point out the tensioner pulley.

Which one is the tensioner pulley?
Should be smack dab in the center of all the other pulleys. If you buy a Goodyear Gatorback replacement belt it will come with a diagram of how the belts are run :)

Is there some fancy-dancy tool that we need to buy to replace this belt? Ordinarily a 3/8 prybar works just fine, but as you can see in the photo below there is no room to get a tool anywhere to adjust (move) the tensioner :frown:

What's the trick?


http://www.webdressing.com/pics/belt.gif

The is a pinned thread at the beginning of the Taurus forums and you can download the repair manuals.

I don't believe anyone has been able to get the manual for the 2004 model year to work yet from that site. If someone's had success, I'd sure be interested to hear about it!

-Rod

"Is there some fancy-dancy tool that we need to buy to replace this belt?'
HeHeHe . . . 'Das what I'm talkin' 'bout and I doubt mine has an inch of clearance to work with & no way a socket & ratchet will have enough room. Maybe a big box or open end wrench? I'll go by the Ford place and ask how they do it and if I bring my own belt how much to replace it for me. I had a fair shade tree mechanic but he seems to have disappeared so all I have left is Jiffy Lube or WalMart sercvice dept. AARRGGHH!

There are a few good shops here but you have to make an appointment two days in advance then leave your car there all day. I have two jobs this morning then I'll cruise around and ask how much they charge to change the belt and if I can wait for it.

I made a good friend at Advance Auto and I'll ask if there's a special tool I can rent.

The book that I have (Haynes) says that you should use a 15mm socket on the pulley bolt to remove your serpentine belt (for the Vulcan, not the Duratech engine). I don't understand why they'd say this because you surely don't want to remove the pulley, but none the less that's what it says...

Most places here won't install parts that you buy some place else. Looks like if I can't find out our where to get this special tool, that I'll be forced to return the Gatorback belts :(

I tried downloading the service manuals here but I haven't a clue as to how to use the torrents program. We downloaded it, and installed it, but no real beginners instructions on what to do next to start the actual download. It's roadblocks everywhere we look :(






.

They might not guarantee parts you provide but I don't see why they wouldn't want to make the money to install it. Whatever . . . .

Some parts stores have a loan a tool program here you leave a deposit and use the tool. They give deposit back when tool is returned.

"Some parts stores have a loan a tool program here you leave a deposit and use the tool. They give deposit back when tool is returned."

Roger that. I did it when I replaced the O2 sensor and rented the tool from Advance Auto. Cost me $14. deposit and when I returned the tool they gave me a refund. I thought there must be a special tool because the work space is very tight in between the wheel well and the pulleys. Thanks for the info and nitey-nite.

Sears has a Craftsman tool that costs around $30 -$35 that does the trick for belt replacement. You are less apt to round off the tensioner bolt than using other methods that require a wrench and an extender pipe or breaker bar for the necessary leverage.

Sears has a Craftsman tool that costs around $30 -$35 that does the trick for belt replacement.
Good call Tom :grinyes: Found two of them. Hopefully the auto parts store has this tool for me to rent :)

Here's one (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00999844000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes)

Here's the other (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00941831000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes)

I called Auto Zone here and they have the Gator Back $33.19 plus tax and have rental tool to put it on. Regular Good Year belt is like $27.00 so six bucks more to go first class Gator Back.

That sounds high. We only paid 28.00 and 12.00 for both of our Gatorbacks at Auto Zone. Unfortunately the parts guy said that he didn't think that "the tool" would work on our Duratec engine, so we had to return both of the belts :( We'll try to buy them again as soon as we learn how to change them on a Duratec engine...

The Gatorbacks are definitely the way to go though if you're replacing a belt.

the OEM belt will go 50K miles
We've got close to twice that on ours :eek: This is why we wanted to replace it, but I guess we'll have to wait until our Ford DVD service manual gets here so we can see what the 'secret' is to changing it and the water pump belt.

Is the water pump belt on yours located on the driver's side of the engine? If so, that one can usually be changed by hand.

As for the accessory drive belt, hopefully your service manual for the 2004 will have more detail than the 2002 manual:
Accessory Drive Belt —3.0L (4V)

Removal and Installation
Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
For additional information, refer to Component Locations 3.0L (4V) in the Description and Operation portion of this section for correct drive belt routing. -Rod

Is the water pump belt on yours located on the driver's side of the engine?
Yes, it's on the back of the engine. I was thinking about just sliding it on with a screwdriver but I can't imagine there not being some way to adjust for tension. It will be interesting to see how Ford wants this to be done.

hopefully your service manual for the 2004 will have more detail than the 2002 manual
Wow I can't believe that's all it says. So if you're working at a dealership they would charge an hours worth of work for that :frown:

Yes, it's on the back of the engine. I was thinking about just sliding it on with a screwdriver but I can't imagine there not being some way to adjust for tension. It will be interesting to see how Ford wants this to be done.


Wow I can't believe that's all it says. So if you're working at a dealership they would charge an hours worth of work for that :frown:

I have not done the water pump belt on a 2004 Taurus, but recently changed one on a Contour with the Duratech. The water pump was run off the camshaft on the driver's side of the engine, there all by itself. The belt was about 10 inches in diameter. To change that one, I pulled on the old belt to make sure the tensioner still moved. It did, so I slid my thumb down to hold the tensioner and slid the old belt off.

I sort of reversed the procedure to install. I put the belt over the large pulley and as far around the bottom of the small pulley as I could. I carefully pulled up on the top of the belt to release tension, used my thumb to hold it somewhat released, then slid the belt on the rest of the way. I inspected the belt for any possible damage and, seeing none, started the engine up. That was last winter, and my co-worker said she hasn't had any problems since.

-Rod

"Wow I can't believe that's all it says.


That is because that is all there is to it.

Mike
:smokin:

Can't pound shops and garages to bad
All businesses have expenses. It's all part of having a business. That's no reason to financially rape customers. Maybe if instead of charging by "the book" they actually charged what the job costs per hour then they wouldn't have such a bad reputation and more people would be willing to use thier services instead of trying to figure out how to do it themselves (where they lose money).

The water pump was run off the camshaft on the driver's side of the engine, there all by itself. The belt was about 10 inches in diameter.
Sounds like the same one, EXCEPT I saw no tensioner at all. It looked like the water pump came off the cam and the other pulley was bolted straight to the engine with no way to adjust anything. That's when I gave up. Getting the old belts off is not my worry. I could always cut them off if need be. Getting the new belts on is a whole other story :eek:

QUOTE=MyTaurus8AChevy]All businesses have expenses. It's all part of having a business. That's no reason to financially rape customers. Maybe if instead of charging by "the book" they actually charged what the job costs per hour then they wouldn't have such a bad reputation and more people would be willing to use thier services instead of trying to figure out how to do it themselves (where they lose money).


So what hourly rate are you gonna charge? I may be able to do a job in 1 hour and the tech in the bay next to me takes 4 hours to do the same job. So if I am the owner, I am gonna work the good tech to death and not be able to compensate him any more than the tech beside him that really tries, but just can't do the job as fast? That is one reason flat rate was initiated. The faster and better you are, the more you are paid. Raping the customer is not the intent of most shops. Even dealerships. It all goes back to the tech with the wrench in his hand as to what kind of reputation a shop has. Pay does not really have a lot to do with quality of work. Pride in oneself and the work you do is the only quality control that is really accurate. My shop is a government facility and we pay by hte hour. I have techs that will really work hard because they want to, and I have techs that drag jobs out all day just so they don't have to do amnything else. My hands are tied quite tightly as towhat I can and can't do to the techs. As long as thwe work is completed. I have to smile and say "Good job." So it goes back to ypur quote, how is the shop gonna make any money and stay open to repair your car? DIY repairs are good for everyone. Keeps cost in line for both sides. Can you afford to purchase all the equipment needed to completely repair your vehicle? Most people don't. So there are always going to be shops that will do what you can't or can't afford the tools to do the repair. I am not advocating for high labor rates. I just know both sides of the coin and there is a lot of competition out there.

The pictures clear it up and I understand how to do it now. Obviously need a lot of leverage to move the tensioner spring and the long handle gives leverage and crows feet easy to slip on the tensioner pulley nut. Thanks a lot for the pictures.

So what hourly rate are you gonna charge?
They can charge whatever they want per hour as long as it's competitive. As consumers it is our right to compare and pick the shop that best fits our needs. Shop owners need to know who they've hired and give estimates before a job is started. Obviously they will over estimate, but if they get carried away then that consumer has the right to walk out the door and go down the strret and then that shop owner will make nothing, so he needs to be fair when giving out an estimate. Then he would assign that car to the mechanic that he trusts to do it within that time span. For example; he charges 50.00 an hour, and quotes 1/4 hour because he knows he has a mechanic that has worked on this particular car before, and has replaced the belt in around 5 minutes. So he charges you 12.50 instead of whatever the book says. Keep in mind that his mecanic now has 10 free minutes to work on another car, so he's still pulling in money. The point is I would bring a car in to do little jobs like this if I knew that it was more fair pricing, but I'll do it myself if they are charging by the book. So when he charges by the book he's losing customers (and money) anyway. At least this way if his shop has a fair reputation then he'd be more likely to get extra customers.

At least this way if his shop has a fair reputation then he'd be more likely to get extra customers.

If a shop has a good reputation, they can charge more than everyone else because the clintele is gonna return and tell friends. I know small shops that charge 20$ more than dealers and stay full. So I think the hourly rate may be tle lower part of the reasons people don't like to go to a shop. Most people say the "mechanic" is the reason they will not go back. Oh, well. I guess we need to stop this before it goes too far. May post a little poll somewhere to give members a chance to blow off against the unscrupulous shops. Will think on that. I think that may be interesting.

That is because that is all there is to it.

Not according to alldata.com. Another member just sent me these instructions from their site ...the procedure sounds fun :eek:

(1) Remove the right front tire.

(2) Remove the front fender splash shield as per following instructions:
2(a) Remove the screws.
2(b) Remove the pin-type retainer.
2(c) Remove the front fender splash shield.

(3) Use a 1-1/4 inch open end wrench to remove the tension. Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt from the crankshaft pulley.

(4) Replace with new belt and reverse the instructions.

Not according to alldata.com. Another member just sent me these instructions from their site ...the procedure sounds fun :eek:

(1) Remove the right front tire.

(2) Remove the front fender splash shield as per following instructions:
2(a) Remove the screws.
2(b) Remove the pin-type retainer.
2(c) Remove the front fender splash shield.

(3) Use a 1-1/4 inch open end wrench to remove the tension. Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt from the crankshaft pulley.

(4) Replace with new belt and reverse the instructions.


I have three taurus setting in my driveway and I have changed the belt on all of them.

All you have to do is use the serpentine belt tool push it until it releases tension on the belt move the belt off the tensioner and then pull it out.

install is just the opposite

Mike
:smokin:

I have three taurus setting in my driveway and I have changed the belt on all of them.
None of them must be a gen 4 with a Duratech engine, because there simply isn't ANY room to use a tool. We've seen the vulcan engine and it's vastly different from this one.

None of them must be a gen 4 with a Duratech engine, because there simply isn't ANY room to use a tool. We've seen the vulcan engine and it's vastly different from this one.


Actually two of them are but they have the Duratec:)


And reading over these posts I may be a bit confused, are we talking about the water pump belt or the belt that drives everything else?

Mike
:smokin:

What year Duratecs are they? I was basically talking about the serpentine, but the water pump belt looks just as bad :frown:

What year Duratecs are they? I was basically talking about the serpentine, but the water pump belt looks just as bad :frown:

They are both 2000 Duratecs and I have changed the serpentine belt on both of them and I used a $20.00 serpentine belt tool kit that I bought from Sears.

Takes all of about 5 minutes to change.

It is just along handle with a 3/8" drive mount on it and it came with a couple of crows feet and a three or four sockets.

Mike
:smokin:

It is just along handle with a 3/8" drive mount on it and it came with a couple of crows feet and a three or four sockets.

I've seen those but they won't work, at least not in a 2004 Duratec (I think the 2004-2006 are different). The tool can be no more than 1/4" at its thickest point. The guy at Autozone also told me when I returned the belt that the standard tool wouldn't work either.

I got a new belt and tried to replace the old one but I don't know where the tensioner is. I tried the lower idler wheel with a 15mm wrench but it dosn't seem to move. Any suggestions? This is on a 2001 SE with the 3l Vulcan.

This is on a 2001 SE with the 3l Vulcan.
That car should be cake to install a belt on. Just go to the store that sold you the belt and they'll have a tool that they'll lend you to install it. Takes less than 5 minutes. :)

I tried a 15mm wrench but there is no movement. What is this tool like? I thought you just turn the nut on the lower idler clockwise. How much tension should I see?

If you remove the nut the pulley will fall off :wink:

You need to use a serpentine tool. You can see them at Sears or any automotive store.

Here's a picture of the belt wrench you can rent at most parts stores and as you can see it has a *real* long handle for good leverage and one of the crows feet should fit the tensioner nut. Slip the crow foot on the nut and haul back on the handle and the belt should loosen right up. If you don't know how to use it ask the guy at the parts store. Shouldn't take five minutes to change it so use it at the store and you'll be sure it works, then give it back and get your rent-deposit money back.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1180578676.1164596024@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cchjaddjhhgdkkdcefecemldffidfki.0&pid=00941831000&cat=Mechanics+Tools&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1

I tried a 15mm wrench but there is no movement. What is this tool like? I thought you just turn the nut on the lower idler clockwise. How much tension should I see?

As others have mentioned, this should be an easy belt change. Make sure you are attempting to release the belt tension using the spring loaded self tensioner rather than the idler pulley. The idler pulley is not intended to release the belt tension.

Also, if you are on the self tensioner, you may need more leverage than the common combination wrench will let you provide. If you borrow the proper serpentine belt removal tool and you still cannot get the tensioner to budge, then the tensioner may be seized and need to be replaced. That will take longer than 5 minutes to replace. :(

-Rod

The yellow circled 15mm bolt is what you need to get hold of.

The Torx Head is what you would loosen to actually take the belt tensioner off.

If you just can't seem to get on it you can take the degasser tank off and it is a little easier.



This is a 99 Vulcan. Actually it is a FFV but it is the same.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/156385/fullsize/belt-tensioner-instructions.jpg


Mike

Whooiiee! I stopped at the Ford place and OEM belt is $59. and change with tax would be almost $63.00 Heck yes, wrap me up to hot ones with mustard and extra onions to go. :thefinger

"The yellow circled 15mm bolt is what you need to get hold of." AMEN.
When you put the crow foot with the long extension handle on it the direction of pull toward the front of the car will cause the tensioner to bend and belt to go slack, but you're pulling the bolt clockwise to the right thus tightening the pulley bolt. "Rightey tightey - lefty loosey." Or something like that. . . .

Just an update incase anyone with a 2004 (or gen 4) Taurus with a Duratec engine needs to replace the serpentine belt. We went to AutoZone and bought the Gaterback belt. Don't bother buying a cheap belt unless you enjoy replacing them :nono: Now here's the tricky part, you cannot see where you need to insert the serpentine tool at. You'll have to "feel" your way around with the tool. There is no bolt to grab onto like with the Vulcan engines, so don't use any sockets with the tool. There is a 1/2 " square hole where the tool will fit into. Once the tool is in that hole just pull the tool toward the front of the car and the old belt will fall off. Do the same to install the new belt. It looks impossible to do, but it is really easy once you find the hidden square hole at the bottom of the tensioner :p