Engine won't start!!

Guys - I got in my hatch the other day and it wouldn't start - every now and then it would try with like one cylinder, but now it just turns and turns. I've checked the following things, but want to hear if you guys have anything -

Timing Belt is good
I'm getting spark on cylinder 1 - haven't checked the others
The dist cap and rotor are still good - barely any residue on them
I can smell gas on the spark plugs

I'm wondering about the main relay - what does it turn on and off and I'm also wondering about fuel filter. I'm not getting any codes except code 1 which has been there since I got the car cause the o2 sensor wire was cut. The car didn't die on me, it was running fine, then I just went out to start it and it wouldn't start.

Any other ideas would be helpful.

Nick

The main relay could be causing the car to crank and crank with no start. Does the relay make the 3 clicks? One for activating the fuel pump (when key is in ON position), the second for when the CEL goes out, and the third should be if you try cranking w/o your foot on the clutch you should hear clicking.

As for fuel and fuel filter, try unbolting the fuel line at the fuel rail and see if you are getting any. Also, I wouldn't run the car with a cut O2 sensor. Your ECU relies heavily on its signal and will go into limp mode without it causing you to run rich.

do you hear the fuel pump "hum" when you turn the key to "on". Does the check engine light "blink" on and go away as it should when you turn the key to "on"? Also, make sure the timing on the belt is correct. Set the motor to TDC and check. I've seen the belt slip twice on cold starts because timing belts are looser when they are cold. Try also loosening the distributor and turning it forward all the way then back all the way. If the seems like it wants to start a little better in one of those positions, then it's definitely timing related.

I'm thinking it might be the timing belt - cause it acts like it wants to start just a little, the rest of the time the engine almost seems to spin a little too smooth. Like there isn't the right compression when there should be.

I'm thinking it might be the timing belt - cause it acts like it wants to start just a little, the rest of the time the engine almost seems to spin a little too smooth. Like there isn't the right compression when there should be.

so throw a compression tester on it. You should have at least roughly 120 psi in each cylinder to start. Or, something even quicker would be to put the car in neutral and use a socket to turn the motor over and set it to TDC to see if the cam gear is lined up.

Ya, i'll turn the motor tomorrow and see if it's off or not.

Culprit - Timebelt - it slipped one tooth. All fixed and running good.

Culprit - Timebelt - it slipped one tooth. All fixed and running good.

Just what I figured. :)

Yep - after thinking about it - it was the only thing it could be - i had fuel and spark and the engine did seem to be turning a little to easy for the starter - so set it back to tdc and moved it and it fired up. I'm glad it was something simple.

6 months ago, my problem actually WAS the main relay :)

heh... -=hijack=-

Stupid question here that didn't really deserve another post..

Using a B2 Block and an A6 Si head, we can't get the timing to TDC on the cam... the question is, should it be set 1/2 tooth ahead, or 1/2 tooth back on the cam.. every honda tuner I have talked to says to get it as close to TDC as possible, problem is, it's EXACTLY in the middle of one of the teeth... so I can either adv or ret it... need to know which one is better.

heh... -=hijack=-

Stupid question here that didn't really deserve another post..

Using a B2 Block and an A6 Si head, we can't get the timing to TDC on the cam... the question is, should it be set 1/2 tooth ahead, or 1/2 tooth back on the cam.. every honda tuner I have talked to says to get it as close to TDC as possible, problem is, it's EXACTLY in the middle of one of the teeth... so I can either adv or ret it... need to know which one is better.

There's something wrong here. The A6 head and the B2 and B7 heads are all the same exact head (PM3). The only difference is the cam. It should line up perfectly. What belt/water pump are you using?

I know the head is the same, I was told the cam gear is diff or something, I checked the code on it, it's the same on both... we're using a B2 pump... someone said to use a y8 pump or y8 cam gear, and that would fix the problem so that it would hit TDC... I was just wondering w/o changing anything if we should have it advanced or retarded.. it's a b2 belt too, I believe.

We have it advanced right now I believe, and the power don't start until about 4,200 RPM... not good on the LX tranny

I know the head is the same, I was told the cam gear is diff or something, I checked the code on it, it's the same on both... we're using a B2 pump... someone said to use a y8 pump or y8 cam gear, and that would fix the problem so that it would hit TDC... I was just wondering w/o changing anything if we should have it advanced or retarded.. it's a b2 belt too, I believe.

We have it advanced right now I believe, and the power don't start until about 4,200 RPM... not good on the LX tranny

EVERYTHING on the heads are identical except for the A6 cam. Basically, you have a stock D15B2 motor with an A6 cam. Everything SHOULD be lining up perfect. How are you timing this thing? What mark on the crank pulley are you using to set the block to TDC? That's where you might be off, you might be looking at the mark at the wrong angle or something. You an also cheat by putting a flathead screwdriver in the number one cylinder and eyeballing it till it reaches it's highest point.

basically, yes, I blew the stock engine in the car, then gave it to my friend, he used a B2 bottom end and a freshly rebuilt A6 head, we put it all together, and everytime we use the timing marks to line it up, it's on 1/2 of a tooth on the cam.. I think naturally advanced. (can't remember)

I've used a dial indicator to reach TDC via the spark plug hole, and the crank pulley lines up correctly on the mark, then locked the crank in place before putting on the timing belt, always set the cam to one tooth BTDC so that when you let the tensioner go, it will take up enough slack to bring it up... and it always ends up being 1/2 tooth off.. duno what's wrong there.. but yeah,

Basically, i"m not worried about reaching TDC.. i'm just wondering if I set the cam back 1/2 tooth (2.3 degrees, I"m pretty sure.. ) retarded, if it will make power at a lower RPM.. like, say, around 3700, since that's what it drops back to when you shift 1-2-3, then to like 4100 when you hit 4th, and 4600 when you hit 5th.

It pretty much seems like when you shift, it's completely powerless... then it picks up a lil bit.. and then takes off again. I"m trying to get it away from the completely powerless part.

basically, yes, I blew the stock engine in the car, then gave it to my friend, he used a B2 bottom end and a freshly rebuilt A6 head, we put it all together, and everytime we use the timing marks to line it up, it's on 1/2 of a tooth on the cam.. I think naturally advanced. (can't remember)

I've used a dial indicator to reach TDC via the spark plug hole, and the crank pulley lines up correctly on the mark, then locked the crank in place before putting on the timing belt, always set the cam to one tooth BTDC so that when you let the tensioner go, it will take up enough slack to bring it up... and it always ends up being 1/2 tooth off.. duno what's wrong there.. but yeah,

Basically, i"m not worried about reaching TDC.. i'm just wondering if I set the cam back 1/2 tooth (2.3 degrees, I"m pretty sure.. ) retarded, if it will make power at a lower RPM.. like, say, around 3700, since that's what it drops back to when you shift 1-2-3, then to like 4100 when you hit 4th, and 4600 when you hit 5th.

It pretty much seems like when you shift, it's completely powerless... then it picks up a lil bit.. and then takes off again. I"m trying to get it away from the completely powerless part.