painting decanted paints?

Hi I have decanted some Tamiya TS paint and was wondering what pressure to paint these at? I use about 25 PSI at the moment for tamiya acrylics is this ok for TS paints.
Also i decanted some white halford primer will this work through a airbrush and if so what presure should this be airbrushed at? (PS if you try this the paint is mad after 12 hours it still was not gassed out right (went mad when you even moved the glass:-) had to wait about 30 hours before i could seal the glass)

Cheers in advance

I usually spray laquers with as low pressure as possible, around 15-20 PSI. Higher than that would work, but it tends to lead to unnecessary texture (orange peel). I would probably reduce it back with a bit of Tamiya's laquer thinner, too.

I usually spray laquers with as low pressure as possible, around 15-20 PSI. Higher than that would work, but it tends to lead to unnecessary texture (orange peel). I would probably reduce it back with a bit of Tamiya's laquer thinner, too.
cheers mpwr i will try around 18 like i use for alchad stuff, what about the primer have you airbrushed this OK?
I will have to pick some Tamiya Laquer thinner up as i dont have any should only Tamiya's be used?

I haven't tried Tamiya, but I've certainly airbrushed primer and I expect Tamiya's would behave just fine out of an airbrush. Yes I would definately use Tamiya's thinner- I've never been sure of what they mean by 'synthetic laquer', but I would worry about compatability issues with anything else. The decanting process is going to allow some of the volitiles in the paint and primer to escape (obviously the propelant, but some of the carrier as well), so this should be replaced to get the paint to behave its best. When spraying laquers (both primer and paint) I make the first several coats light mist coats with the laquer not overly thinned. This helps adhesion (prevents running), and makes it less likely that the volitiles will attack the plastic. Once a base is built up though, I reduce it back and spray thin but wet.

How much paint are you decanting at once? and how big is the opening to the bottle you are holding the paint?
I use Ts paint in Tamiya mixing jars.. the 20 ml type. I normally only decant 10~15 ml at once.. Then I leave it there for around 30mins. Then using a stick ( mixing rod, toothpick, whatever is handy) I stir it SLOWLY until it stops bubbling. Even at this point its not fully gassed out, but its good to use if you are in a hurry.
As for the thinner, I've tried Tamiya's stuff, celulouse thinners, Mr Color Thinner, Mr Color leveling thinner, and good ol hardware store lacquer thinner... of all of the above do NOT use 'good ol hardware store lacquer thinner'... high chance of the thinner eating at the plastic. Tamiya's Lacquer thinner works, without a doubt, the best. As for the psi, I use 10-20 psi depending on how the batch is thinned.

HTH,
Steve

I haven't tried Tamiya, but I've certainly airbrushed primer and I expect Tamiya's would behave just fine out of an airbrush. Yes I would definately use Tamiya's thinner- I've never been sure of what they mean by 'synthetic laquer', but I would worry about compatability issues with anything else. The decanting process is going to allow some of the volitiles in the paint and primer to escape (obviously the propelant, but some of the carrier as well), so this should be replaced to get the paint to behave its best. When spraying laquers (both primer and paint) I make the first several coats light mist coats with the laquer not overly thinned. This helps adhesion (prevents running), and makes it less likely that the volitiles will attack the plastic. Once a base is built up though, I reduce it back and spray thin but wet.
cheers MPWR what about auto primers as i use halford (a auto store here in the UK) own brand white primer what should i thin this with? should i use cellulose thinners?
Also have you decanted Tamiya TS-13 clear? If so it it ok to do and can i thin this with Tamiya Thinner?
Cheers again

I would love to try Halford's white- but I just can't get it in the states. Some auto laquer primers you can thin with ordinary good quality auto thinner (PPG or the like), but some take a specialized reducer. I'd get over to Halford's and use whatever they say goes with it. Ordinary cellulose thinner may work OK, or it may be disasterous. Use the right stuff- having primer go on just right beats the hell out of sanding orange peel!

I haven't tried decanting TS-13, but airbrushing it is the only way I'd care to put it on. Again Tamiya laquer thinner is the stuff to use with it. Also, start it light- you want 4 or 5 light mist coats with 15-20 min in between to build up a barrier before you start wet coating. Applied slowly it should give you no trouble (and then you can make your wet coats really wet). Apply it too fast and it will certainly eat anything under it- decals, paint (especially metallics), plastic, steel, granite.... :shakehead