1989 Camry Shift issue

Here is the next issue that I have with the Camry, Which now runs great.(93000) Low Mile Gem, seams to shift hard and does not kick down, but works if you manuel shift it? Will a trans service fix this or is it a sensor or modual problem?

Kelly

I vote for changing the fluid and filter before anything else. Could fix it and it sure won't hurt anything. Beyond that check the adjustment on the shift linkages especially the throttle valve cable for your no kick down issue.

Well, I have tried a lot of things with this car, trans service, new ecm, checked kickdown cable, and checked speed sensor. I am about to scrap out the car do to the wife. I just hate that when it only has 93000 miles on it. I will take any ideas.

Kelly

Try putting the shift button next to parking brake into power mode instead of normal.

please don't scap it. if it is the 2.0l it has alot of miles left. have you considered professional advice from a reputable trans shop? may cost a couple hours of labor but it would greatly help your decision to keep the car or not to keep the car! mike

While my 91 didn't shift too roughly I did notice a considerable difference when I converted from dino ATF to Mobil 1 and it has gotten even smoother since running it a few thousand miles. I also noticed that mine is extremely sensitive to the fluid level; check and make sure you aren't under or overfilled.

I have already tried the power button, unless it is defective? it reads on the dash as power. I may have to take it to a trans shop, but I was hoping that someone out there has had this same issue. I find it very hard to believe that it is a unique problem. I went through the fluid levels also. could it be the ECT? I have not replaced that yet.

Kelly

I have already tried the power button, unless it is defective? it reads on the dash as power. I may have to take it to a trans shop, but I was hoping that someone out there has had this same issue. I find it very hard to believe that it is a unique problem. I went through the fluid levels also. could it be the ECT? I have not replaced that yet.

Kelly

im having the same problem. im getting poor acceleration and i've checked the fluid levels in the tranny and it has four notches in it(two about an inch or two from the end of the stick and two about an inch further up). mine so happens to be in the middle of those four. i cant tell if i need to add fluid or what. amd my power.normal button doesn't work.

The lower 2 notches represent what you check when the trans is cold. The upper 2 notches represent the ones you check when the trans is hot.

Mike

The lower 2 notches represent what you check when the trans is cold. The upper 2 notches represent the ones you check when the trans is hot.

Mike

awesome. well i know when its hot its in the middle of the four notches. do i need to add more or what?. bc this thing goes nowhere even when it is floored.

With the engine and transmission hot and the engine idling, the fluid level should be between the upper two notches.

With the engine and transmission hot and the engine idling, the fluid level should be between the upper two notches.

so im taking it as it needs tranny fluid then?.

so im taking it as it needs tranny fluid then?.

Yes, as Brian stated above, when hot it should be in between the 2 upper lines.

Mike

Yes, as Brian stated above, when hot it should be in between the 2 upper lines.

Mike

Ok. well im back with an update. i added tranny fluid like mentioned before. and its STILL doing a shitty job of shifting. i need help guys.

I'm no trans expert but a few questions come to mind. How many miles are on this car? How old is the trans fluid that is in there? What color is it?

Mike

I'm no trans expert but a few questions come to mind. How many miles are on this car? How old is the trans fluid that is in there? What color is it?

Mike

close to 240k miles. and i have no idea how old the trans fluid is. and i wanna say its a goldish(?) looking color. i've been to autozone and asked them about it and the guy said the bands might need to be tightened. but i'll try flushing and refilling the trans first to see if that corrects the problem.

"i'll try flushing and refilling the trans first to see if that corrects the problem."

Draining and refilling the transmission through the drain plug in the bottom of the pan (if that's what you meant) (you actually refill through the dipstick hole) only drains about 1/3 of the transmission fluid. You might want to try one of the places that uses a machine hooked up to your transmission and drains and refills about 99% of the fluid. Or you could drain and refill the fluid using the drain plug, a number of times after driving a few hundred miles each time. That and keep your fingers crossed. 240,000 miles is a lot of miles, especially not knowing when the fluid has been previously changed.

Good luck.

Mike

"i'll try flushing and refilling the trans first to see if that corrects the problem."

Draining and refilling the transmission through the drain plug in the bottom of the pan (if that's what you meant) (you actually refill through the dipstick hole) only drains about 1/3 of the transmission fluid. You might want to try one of the places that uses a machine hooked up to your transmission and drains and refills about 99% of the fluid. Or you could drain and refill the fluid using the drain plug, a number of times after driving a few hundred miles each time. That and keep your fingers crossed. 240,000 miles is a lot of miles, especially not knowing when the fluid has been previously changed.

Good luck.

Mike


for close to 240k it still runs like a dream, aside from the transmission lol. its a crust bucket buts its a tough crust bucket. ill ask around some more and see if i can find a trans shop that'll diagnose it. thanks mike. ill keep ya'll updated.

To dobb, i'd tell you to check to see if ur TCM is throwing any codes and also ur transmission solenoids, they can be cleaned sometimes and that can do a world of good. They aren't cheap. sorry that was 3 years late but id put money on that it's solenoids.

to ifixthings, it serisously always helps to clean the solenoids bro, or at least doesnt hurt. topping off the tranny fluid wont always help if u got a nasty fluid and a stopped up filter. Mike is right, doing the tree shade fluid job wont change all the fluid out, but at the same time it beats the hell out of 160 bucks to get it flushed. i say pull the trans pan off, drain it, check the solenoids since i think in that car they are inside the pan (on some cars they bolt to the outside, my car is manual so i cant tell you.) also check to see if ur trans is throwin off any codes, i think its behind the glove box, hopefuly someone chimes in an tells u the exact location of these things but im sure you can google it. when u get all that done and have changed the filter and gasket, drive for like 100 miles to let the fluid cycle into the torque converter and then flush it again. the fluid and all ain't cheap if you are on a budget but it's worth the preventive maintenance.

question, does ur engine run hot? hot engine means hot trans and hot trans shift like dog crap.

It is recommended that you NOT have the transmission power flushed at this point at a shop. Any varnish and build-up that has formed inside can break loose during the flush and re-deposit inside the valve body and cause a total failure. Do as suggested with a fluid drain and replace the filter inside the pan. Run it a few hundred miles then drain and refill again. Repeat drive, drain, and refill again. This allows the gunk to be slowly redissolved.

You might consider adding some transmission fix such as Lucas Oil (don't overfill) to the last refill. Use only the amount as directed. It's a thicker fluid that helps older valve body seals maintain pressures. I have not read or heard of anyone else having issues with this stuff, but I have used it successfully (so far) in my old Chevy truck.

Hope this helps!