rough running, and fuel rail washers

1999 2.2L Rodeo, 130k

I've got two problems (that i'm aware of), main one is, the car runs rough when accelerating. It is fine at idle. I've just done a lot of work to it (timing belt broke at 130k with 29k on new belt/water pump but not new tensioner/idlers dumb dumb dumb); put rebuilt head on, all new gaskets, new tensioner and idler pullies. put eveything back on as it came off, very slow deligent work.

Car starts up, idles fine, but upon gassing it seems to run chunky/rough. Then the CEL came on. Car runs but I have not driven it yet, just testing it prior.

The timing marks are all consistent/correct. crankshaft pully mark and the cam pully marks stayed true after a few light test runs prior to putting the drive belt and such back on.

I'm thinking it has got to be: a vacuum leak, a ignition problem (bad spark plug?) or ???? no idea. I reused the spark plugs so thinking of changing those out to see, but they aren't that old and were running fine prior.

I read the faq and it mentioned rough running if IMG has a leak - I don't hear a leak and I've got the 2.2L 4 banger...

Any ideas what could be causing the roughness? I don't want drive it to the repair shop in order to get the CEL code :( at this point...

Secondly, I need to replace the metal/gasket washers 2 per fuel bolt on the fuel rail - but I can't find them anywhere - the dealer is closed Sat. and is far away, I'll call them Monday :( but if anyone knows a part number or other source?

Thanks!! Really miss my Rodeo, been about a month now :(

a little chronology of the work recently done:
http://www.sierranature.com/rodeo.html

Thanks for the project pictures! Looks like you learned a ton about your engine. Lots of space in that engine bay with a 2.2 L in there. I would start with the plugs, too. Good luck!

update:

new plugs did not solve the problem.

did figure out the CEL code (bought a Actron CP9125 odbII scanner):
P0300 = random/multiple cylinder misfire detected

two of the plugs, #3/#4 cyclinder do not show any carbon after a test run. #1 and #2 show blackening by carbon. I can see on plugs that all are firing.

I tested spark plug wires (couldn't find a new set locally avail.) with mulitimeter and all were below the Haynes 30,000 ohms, most were 2-4000 ohms, however one was way up to 20k's. Plan on trying to locate a set.

Did a compression check, all cylinders were 180's or above, so I think that is safe.

Thinking of buying a vacuum tester to check that. Otherwise, now thinking it is one of the following:

spark plug wires?

fuel injectors?

vacuum leak (intake manifold or?)

coil?

engine was running fine prior to timing belt breakage, and only new part is the cylinder head (rebuilt), t-belt, idlers, tensioners and now plugs.

hope to get this resolved soon. will post new pictures later tonight on the link in my first post.

any ideas that I may have missed?

Thanks!

You've got a lot of troubleshooting left it seems, but I'll bet you were glad to see good compression across the board. Good luck!

ordered a ignition wire set online, should have it in a few days, will try that and see if it is the cause, probably good to have new ones at 130k anyway. otherwise will look at injectors after that I think.

was able to order the fuel rail washers at the dealer today over the phone. 1.14 each, not bad - figured i'd be paying $20 for the 4. They did want $55 dollars for EACH ignition wire...:screwy: bought a Bosch set online for $50 includ. shipping and tax.

updated the photos here:
http://www.sierranature.com/rodeo.html

thanks for the responses surferfletch!

Wish I could be more helpful. I know others are watching with interest, too...

took 1 day to get wire set, 3 days to get fuel rail washers for the banjo bolts on the fuel rail (from dealer). did nothing to help the situation though.

seems #3/#4 are not firing (if that's the correct terminology). There is spark...is there fuel? I used the long screwdriver as a tethoscope trick on the injectors and they seems to be clicking, but honestly not sure the long screwdriver trick is too worthy.

Bought a noid light but was not the right one - anybody know what noid light to use for 99 2.2L? gm scpi? or tbi or ? will test this to see if i have power to those two injectors.

other thought is maybe intake manifold gasket but it is new and torqued to spec... vacuum test came up w/ weak 13, but w/ those two cylinders not firing would this nullify the vacuum test?

Any other ideas?? Thank you.

2 continue my monlogue...to amuse myself i guess

i'm planning this weekend to change out the IMG. it's not that much work nor cost and maybe it'll solve my: #3/#4 cyclinders not firing, problem.

no idea on the noid light, even called a manufacturer and they had no idea. brilliant.