Performance mods that DO work

Feel free to add anything i may have overlooked.
Free mods:
- airbox mod (ex: "swiss cheese" airbox)
- throttle plate mod (96+ 4.3 V6)
- TPS voltage drop (increases mpg in some applications)
Intake:
- swiss cheese airbox (or other airbox mod) with high flow drop in filter
- aftermarket air intakes (ebay "chrome intakes", AEM Brute Force, K&N FIPK)
- open element air cleaner on TBI engines (ex: 4.3 TBI VIN Z)
- TB spacer on TBI engines (do not use on 96+ vin X or W)
Exhaust:
- headers (ex: eldelbrock)
*NOTE: gains will be similar to a catback unless the engine is taken past the bolt-on stage.
- high flow cat (universal catco and magnaflow models are the cheapest)
- remove pre-cat in the y-pipe before the cat (2000+ 4.3, check local emissions laws before doing so)
- high flow muffler (ex: flow-pro, vortex, ravin Z series, dynomax super turbo/ultra flow, borla)
- cat backs (ex: dynomax, gibson, borla) or custom make one.
*NOTE: a complete catback is not always nessesary for nice performance gains. usually on a mostly stock engine, the gains from a full catback will not offset the aditional cost.
PCM/ECM tuning:
- hand held programers (ex: hypertech, superchips)
- reflashed PCM w/ custom program 96+ OBD2 only (wait4meperformance, pcmforless, EFI live)
Ignition:
-aftermarket ignition using control unit, coil, and larger wires (ex:MSD)
*NOTE: stock system is adiquate in most cases as its the same system used on engines up to 454ci.
Other:
- underdrive pulleys
- electric fan (ex: one from a 93-96 3.8 Ford Taurus)

Okay. I guess I will add a few things. I have always said that just changing your rockers out will give you a huge gain!

1.6 roller tip rockers same as the 350 about $60 and 1 hour of your time, this for late model Blazers up to 2000 (non adjustable), anything after that and you already have roller trunion rockers. You can update to full roller rockers minimal parts needed.

Older Blazers will benifit from full roller rockers (adjustable) .

This in a sense gives you a bigger cam (more lift) for the valves, does almost nothing for the duration. But this will let that C.A.I. do what you brought it for.

When you remove the throttle plate restrictor and go catback this mod with these also will give you the most gain for the money!

Leave your Maf sensor alone!! It works! Only descreen or replace it if you have some sort of forced induction. Just adding a Graniteli will not benifit you as expected will just give you a S.E.S. light. Until you get a reprogram.

Replace your Poppet injection with a MFI great throttle response! But leave in the Poppets if you want to go for maximum engine power! They both flow about the same but the poppets add just a little more fuel. The MFI will also give you better gas mileage and driveability.

Keep your engine tuned!! Keep your trans filter clean! Make sure that your Brakes are not frozen (rear) , easy way to check , put yout truck in neutral (engine off) and your emergency brake off , walk around to the rear of your Blazer grab the rear bumper and pull and push it away ,and too you (by yourself) NO HELP! You should be able to move it (Level ground) If not check your BRAKES!

Think of proccessed DYNO oil (synthetic) Better smaller lubrication particles, less friction more power!

Check your transfer case! Check your front and rear differentials, I have seen a lot of them that were bone dry! Power Robbing friction!! Not to mention a ticking time bomb!!

There are SO many more things that you can do with minimal money and little time to give you a better running Blazer. But when you are ready to spend a lot of money and a lot of time the basics will already be there!!

Please forgive me but I forgot to mention the size of the 1.6 rockers. They are 1.6 3/8 self aligning roller tip rockers.

this can be used for the non adjustable and the adjustable rocker setup. when used with the non adjustable (vortec) setup , it will be a direct swap, just get some new metric rocker balls from RockAuto or reuse the ones from the origanal rockers providing wear is at a minumum!!!

The full roller rocker has a roller trunion and a roller tip and can only be used with a adjustable setup! You can convert to adjustable by just buying new rocker studs (Vortec) From ARP or Summit.

Remember that both of these setups will have to be self aligning! If you go with regular rockers you will have to purchase guide plates!

One more thing with Rockers. If you plan on using your Blazer as a daily driver stay away from aluminum rockers! They sound good and are very pretty but steele is the key to durability! There are a few companies that make steele rockers that are way stronger than aluminum and are lighter where it counts , over the valve.

But if you plan and will remove your rocker covers to inspect the rockers go right ahead and use aluminum. Just try to check them at least once a week!

Believe it or not but there is one spacer out there that actually works!

I don't know if any one has ever heard of a V-MAX spacer.

This spacer sits below the plastic section of the intake manifold. It raises the intake maybe an inch and gives the intake more volumn. More air capacity.

Our spider assembly, be it MFI or Poppet takes up a lot of room in the intake and actually blocks and disrupts direct air passage to the cylanders!

What this spacer accomplishes is more air is readily available to the cylanders, the engine does not have to work as hard to take in air. (like trying to breathe through a sandwich bag or a shopping bag) and if you have forced induction , the goodtimes will be abundant!!

The material is first rate (billet aluminum) and everything is included, longer screws and new gaskets.

Remember air is very important to performance and any way that you can get it into your engine with the least amount of restriction is always the key!

Everything that I am talking about has been used in the building of my two Blazers. V6 and V8. So I am only going to recomend things that will truly work! Not just stuff that sounds good. And will actually hurt your performance.

C.A.I. Bad ! NO! VERY GOOD! YES!!!!

Less restrictive air is always good for an engine! What is bad for an engine is Hot air!!

If you put in a cheap C.A.I. Just make sure that you do not over oil it! Let it dry completely! And after a week reclean your MAF sensor, by then all of the oil that was still suspended in the filter will have run its coarse.

Put the filter as close to the headlight as possible , and use some sort of heat shield. cardboard or whatever. Just block as much heat from the engine as possible! There should be a large rectangular opening directly behind the drivers side headlight , try and get your filter to sit diirectly in front of it.

Hot air contains less oxygen than cool air (expansion)thats why hot air ballons float. We need nice heavy air for combustion (Cold air), you ever notice that the first couple of weeks of winter when you are still on summer gas you seem to have much more Horsepower? Same gas just more oxygen for combustion.

Any cold air intake will work, wether it costs $35 or $300 just make sure that it is clean , oiled and screened! And the most important , GET IT AS FAR AWAY FROM THE ENGINE AS POSSIBLE! The closer to the headlight the better!!

Spark plugs!

I don't care what kind you buy , Just make sure that the gap is set correctly! This is the single most thing that will effect any performance that you hope to gain!

The biggest mistake that I have seen is that most people change their sparkplugs with a filthy engine! What good is changing your sparkplugs when you foul them just by inserting them in the holes!! Clean your area around the sparkplugs before removing them or putting new ones in!!

After setting and checking your gap , Do not let them touch the sides of the hole when you insert them!! The slightist nudge to the electrode can effect your gap setting!

A lot of people complain that they have a misfiire and that they have just changed out the sparkplugs , wires and cap and rotor. when all it was , was a fouled or incorrectly gapped sparkplug that they did themselves by incorrectly installing something as simple as a sparkplug!!

Sparkplugs simple , engine can't run without them! your performance ,well what performance without them?

Rule of thumb. bigger gap , normally aspirated engine. Smaller gap, higher compression , forced induction. the bigger the gap the more stress that is placed on the ignition system! keep your Gap at the propper setting!

Throttle Body Spacer - for a TBI engine ('88-95ish) not CSFI system('96+).

If anyone has a TBI system and wants a little more grunt, a spacer for this system does actually work.

Programmer! Why get one?

Because all Blazers come from the factory detuned! Wake up your engine a little.

People think all they realy do is advance your timing a little bit. ( Late model Blazers advance is done through the computor), They do much more than that! at the least they are OBD 2 code readers. You can luck up on EBAY and get one for less than a hundred bucks.

If you want more ! You have to pay more! With the mods that were listed above this will compliment them nicely!

Get one that is updateble! and programable! Chips are just that, outdated programming. That people are trying to get rid of!

After you do any mod also do a driving cycle. this will let your computor relearn things like fuel maps and such. Very ,Very Important!! I think that GM's driving cycle is listed on this forum.

Someone please tell me what brand and store to buy the 1.6 3/8 Roller Tip Rockers at.

I will delete the post after someone lets me know as I am seeing a lot of available items out there.

A 4.10 differential (option code GT5) will make one "launch" with an auto. trans....yer fuel milage may suffer. Loose items will smash against the rear hatch/tailgate
A 3.73 (option code GT4) won't hit as hard but fuel milage won't be as bad either.
The front side of the passenger side axle tube has the ID stamp. The first 3 digits are the axle ratio.

Any 5.7 ,350 roller tip rocker will work. Look on ebay. they have them for $69. Also try Summit and Jegs .

Try Comp Cams magnum roller tip rockers. Or something from Crane.

Remmember that wheel size plays a important part in the final drive ratio! If you have large tires with a large outside diameter . You can effectively negate your 410 gears. great for rock crawling . Really really bad for performance. If speed off the line is what you are after.

Do Not, I repeat, Do not! Use anything that will block your intake! No spiral charger! As said before in the first post , will do absolutely nothing but block air flow. Now if you can figure out how to put in 6 of these right before the valves inside of the heads. Then you are in business. As stupid as that sounds.

Chevy vortec heads are great! they only need help on the exhaust side. They are a great upgrade for any pre vortec engine. Chevy did a great job with these.

TPI engines will love that spacer between the throttle body and the intake, they make several throttle bodies with porting and bigger injectors for this engine. Try Edlebrock , Only problem is cost. the other only 2 injectors! Check Edlebrock and look at their new intakes for the tpi. Instant HP Gains!

i cant seem to find anything on this "TPS voltage drop" can someone post a link to it or tell me more about/how to do it?

thx.

Intake:
- swiss cheese airbox (or other airbox mod) with high flow drop in filter
- ebay cold air intakes (usually perform the same as name brand intakes but with reduced cost)
- open element air cleaner on TBI engines (ex: 4.3 TBI VIN Z)
- TB spacer on TBI engines (do not use on 96+ vin X or W)


Can these be found at an autoparts store, or must they be ordered off Ebay?

Can these be found at an autoparts store, or must they be ordered off Ebay?in reference to your 90 s10;
- cutting holes in the airbox is a free mod. i don't think it can be done on a 90 s10 though.
- there aren't any ebay intakes for the 90 s10 but yes thats the only place you could get one
- the open element air cleaner can be found at a local store like advanced auto, autozone, etc or online on ebay or summitracing/jegs
- you may be able to find a TB spacer at a local store but again your best bet would be ebay or summitracing/jegs.

One mod that no one seems to talk about , It is a seven letter dirty word that adds instant gratification and lightens your wallet at the same time. Takes about three hours to install right . Our motor loves it ,loves it like (crack !!). And in three hours you will be out and about trying to race everything that you can find, UNTIL IT RUNS OUT!!

That seven letter dirty word is N I T R O U S !

Wet system only !! 50 to a 75 shot. Nothing more. Engine must be in good working order !! Don't race on city streets !! Find a back road that is not used often. Cost $500.00 and more with every bottle fill.

I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy(2wd). 121K miles on it. My question(s) are specific to my vehicle, as most of the answers I've found on the internet are generalized for models ranging from 96-01 or 99-03, etc. etc.. Fact or opinion are acceptable answers/inputs. I'm just trying to get an idea from other Jimmy owners or those in the know about these modifications as to how they could possibley affect performance. My list is fairly short and simple, and I am a low budget modifier until someone gets George W. to up the military paycheck :grinyes:

Underdrive pulley set (about as expensive as I can get)
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/JET90105.htm

Cold air intake. Have researched this site, and will probably go with a less expensive, generic type.

Lubricating rear leafs. Going to look for some graphite or teflon spray lube tomorrow for this.

Spark plugs/wires. Not sure if this is worth the money yet.

Riser plate. Will this work for the 2000 year model? I'm a bit slow, and was slightly confused whether or not this mod included my year model.

Oil change. Going to use the Dyno synthetic as suggested. Will include checking differential for proper lube as well.

Fuel filter. Engine is not running rough at all, but I'm thinking this couldn't hurt.

These things seem simple enough, but I'm a very anal person and want to know everything I can and from every angle before I get started on these. Again, and inputs/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

for the pulleys, that price is not worth it,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=ASP%2D541084&N=700+4294908171+4294908164+4294924666+4294840129+ 4294819990+4294925232+4294839035+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ASP%2D541084&N=700+4294908171+4294908164+4294924666+4294840129+ 4294819990+4294925232+4294839035+115&autoview=sku)
there are some good ones for about $50 less

the intake you would be better off gettin one off ebay or somthing, same performance for way less money

it wont really be worth upgrading to platinum plugs and better wires unless your also gonna go with a high output coil also

and i dont believe the riser plate was made for 2000

The one thing that I really Hate !! I mean Hate !! Shops that rip you off ! The tip off ! Not giving you a set price !

I got a second set off Y pipes built with a wideband bung and provisions for a high flow CAT. Done in stainless. They are beautiful . But they ended up costing me 370.00 . The problem . You really need them. Well only the true performance people do. Don't spend the money if you plan on not doing the other mods that are in this thread. Or don't take care of your Blazer and then complain when things wear out.

Enjoy the Blazer and the v6, this much maligned engine is now beeing recognized for the true baby power factory that it can become.

Where can I find an open element air cleaner assembly for a 92 TBI S10? Most assemblies I find are for carbs.

You know, torque gets you off the line. Horespower keeps you there. Having high HP numbers looks great on paper, what looks even better is high torque numbers. There is no one thing that you can put on your engine that will give you instant gratification Well (nitrous) short lived but fun. The rest need combinations. A CAI needs exhaust, Spark plugs need wires ,distibutor,cap rotor,coil. Underdrive pulleys need belts. The moral . DON'T EXPECT ADDING A CAI BY ITSELF WILL NOT HAVE YOU RACING CORVETTS!! TAKE YOUR TIME! DO THINGS RIGHT! IT WILL COME.

When was the last time that you have checked your air pressure in your tires? Tires are key to performance. SO ARE BRAKES !! I know that I already talked about checking your rear brakes. But, I just helped a guy work on his back brakes . The pins were stuck in the carrier and nothing that I did would make them come out. Blow torch. wrench. wouldn't even twist!! We brought new rear carriers. And installed them. MPG went up . Performance went up. And handling went up. He was very happy with his truck. said it drove like a completely different Blazer. He went from hating his truck to wanting to keep it and make it better . Performance could be found in the least likely places ! 4 caliper pins ! 4 pins ! was robbing this guy of a better performing truck !


http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c391/Blazer111/?action=view&current=013-1.flv

Yes brakes are offten overlooked. Calipers may not fully release and the pads drag. You yourself should be able to push and pull your truck on a flat surface with the trans in neutral and the e-brake off. Something else that happens is the metal clips on the front pads break off, get caught, and they dig into the rotor causing performance and braking problems. Replace them with stainless steal ones, problem solved.

Vehicle: 1996 GMC Jimmy SLS 4.3L Vortec.
Mods that work:
knN High flow air filter (I suggest keeping the stock intake box, unless you like having a dirty high flow filter all the time.)

Gibson stainless side swept exhaust (it just kicks your ass)

Magnaflow High flow cat. (replaces the stock restrictive one)

Power-aid Throttle body spacer (I dont care what anyone says, I have seen signifigant mpg and mid range power gains from this spacer) it even whistles like a turbo to let you know it's working. Had it on for over two years now and it's still going strong.

Complete clean (get it dipped)/re-machined intake manifold with new Fel pro gaskets. (the stock gaskets, especially on the manifold are complete crap, don't be suprised when they blow out)


- I am currently about to install a new aftermarket ingnition coil/module so I will post on that.

I have since installed a K&N intake and Flowmaster Super 40 exhaust(sounds amazing!) Am currently looking at coil/ignition/plug wires/plugs. I want to go out tomorrow or saturday to pick these up, only i'm finding it difficult to get the "warm fuzzy" that the items i'm looking at are compatible with my truck.

I was looking at the:
http://www.msdignition.com/coil_blaster_1_8200_8202_8223.htm for my coil.

Also looking at the :
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_1_5900.htm for an ignition.

Was thinking of going with Accel or Taylor 8mm wires, but still a bit unsure as i haven't looked into them too thoroughly. Is there anything specific you can think of that I should keep in mind when looking at wires? Also, what plugs would you reccommend? Like every man, I would like to feel the performance difference, but ultimately I would be happier with a boost to my MPG's. I definately don't want to do anything that would give me less economy than what I currently get, but staying the same wouldn't be so bad if I could actually feel the difference in driving.

As always, any and all input is greatly appreciated!

I haven't been able to find a listing anywhere to make sure these will work on my truck. They may be fairly universal, but I don't buy anything for my truck unless i'm 100% certain it will fit right. If you know they will apply, please let me know.

Stay away from MSD coils and Accell wires. I've heard nothing but bad things about them. Go with an Accell coil and Taylor 8.2 wires. For an ignition box, most use MSD 6A or 6AL. I will be installing a 6AL on mine. If you use the MSD harness PN 8877 its a direct plug and play inatall. After you are finished with all of the bolt on parts you want to use, get a tuned pcm from wait4me performance or pcmforless to maximize the performance and fuel economy.

What is the TPS voltage drop mod and how is it done?

The mod is done by enlarging the mounting holes on the TPS and rotating it to were the voltage is lower. It can't be physically done on all 4.3's and you need to be carefull not to damage the sensor. I did this mod on my old 95. On a 4.3 a drop to 4.3 volts is a good number. If your not conserned with performance, the lower voltage will lower the amount of fuel used for the given TP and can improve economy slightly.

I did the throttle plate mod and now i have a check engine code do i need to remove the neg cable for 15 mins to reset and let the truck relearn conditions?

when i removed the restrictor piece it let two new holes where it was mounted.

I did the throttle plate mod and now i have a check engine code do i need to remove the neg cable for 15 mins to reset and let the truck relearn conditions?

when i removed the restrictor piece it let two new holes where it was mounted.
If you did the mod by removing the diflector and the plate with rivets it was attached to, you did it wrong. If you did this and installed the plate that way with those two extra holes left open, the engine will not run correctly, idle eratically, and probably set a code and turn the SES light on. Get another TB plate and just grind the diflector off and leave that extra thin plate with rivets attached.

so it is the extra air that is giving the problem?
I can put rivets in the holes and that will take care of the extra air.
thanks for the help.

so it is the extra air that is giving the problem?
I can put rivets in the holes and that will take care of the extra air.
thanks for the help.
Yes having those two holes open will provide too much air and cause erratic idling. Safest option is to get another blade but if you can install rivets in the holes that are exactly the right size you might be ok.

If you want some real power and I mean real power add a super charger. It is a one day job that really gives you lots of low end torque; there are kits for many engines. I like these because you don,t have to monkey around with the exhaust. You may want to add an intercooler as the air gives off heat when you compress it. These are really fun for low displacement engines.


If you don't go overboard you can keep the lower end pretty much stock. Like 5lbs or less.

The only kit that is still produced for the 4.3 is made by powerdyne (blower is vortech). The kit runs at 6psi without an intercooler and from what others have told me, provides good power gains. The kit, however, is not cheap at around $2,500 for a new kit. If your willing to spend that much money then fine but you should do other supporting mods first. Personally, I don't think its practical because of the cost and the way it murders your gas mileage :rolleyes:.

I just bought a computer chip through Boss Performance for my 1995 4.3 liter TBI. It says it is supposed to give a hp boost. It was only $20 bucks so I dont expect much. It says to patch it into the intake air temperature sensor. I don't know where that is located. I went to my local auto store and their computer says it is attached to the airbox intake tube that goes to the front of the truck behind the headlight. I have recently added a cold air intake but there was no such sensor on my stock intake.

Can you tell me where this sensor might be? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ok i have a 93 CPI 4.3 Jimmy and am looking for a good place to get performance Headers with Full true dual exhaust or something with xpipe in cluded not wanting to spend too much over $500 for the full kit but any1 kno where i could get ahold of something like this

Never heard of a dual exhaust kit for these trucks and headers are a nightmare as well. You'd be best off looking for someone to do it custom. Doubt you'll get it done for under $500 as a good set of headers will cost close to that.

I just bought a computer chip through Boss Performance for my 1995 4.3 liter TBI. It says it is supposed to give a hp boost. It was only $20 bucks so I dont expect much. It says to patch it into the intake air temperature sensor. I don't know where that is located. I went to my local auto store and their computer says it is attached to the airbox intake tube that goes to the front of the truck behind the headlight. I have recently added a cold air intake but there was no such sensor on my stock intake.

Can you tell me where this sensor might be? any help would be greatly appreciated.

TBI (Z engine) does not have a Mass Air Flow sensor or Inlet Air Temperature sensor.

Well I did my own custom single dual setup but gets a little to loud when I am into it i want a deeper toned sound even if I have to go with an X-Pipe type setup that would be fine but cant find anywhere that has everything i need for it Headman has a set of street headers for $240 but are ball and socket ends and just finding 1 place with all the stuff I need is impossible, I can do the work myself but prefer to get ann the pipes from one place including headers

Because there are no dual exhaust kits for these trucks. Never have been, never will be.

yes i have noticed there are no true dual kits for these that is why I asked in my last post if anyone has found a good place to find an aftermarket Y-pipe 3" inlets and outlet would be great figured i should keep stock configuration to not have to deal with the O2 censor as much

i am getting a 94 chevy silvarado with a 4.3 l vortec i have the same truck with a 350 though what can i do to the new truck to keep the get up and go??

I Have been watching this post for a while now, and I have seen just the weekend mods that do provide an increase in fun , But not a real increase in horse power. When I first started posting suggestions in this post , it was to provide like minded people like myself with performance options that are not always available to the 4.3 v6 Vortec crowd. The truth. The V6 Chevy vortec is a great engine ! like anything that has moving parts and rotates at 5000 rpm THEY NEED UPKEEP, and the M word. They don't make the Blazer and the Bravada anymore because They made them too well ! Think of this. How old is your Blazer and Bravada ? How many are still on the street ? Why do people talk about things breaking and malfunctioning , when in fact the parts might be older than they are ?!

Now For real v6 Vortec performance . Go to shops on line like RaceprovenMotors and SYTY and check out the Ghetto Sled ! Check out the 1200 HP dual turbo v6 Vortec on youtube. If they don't get your blood boiling and lusting after HP, I don't know what will !
Now that I am finished with my Rant ! I will provide an indepth look at gaining real HP from the V6 Vortec in the coming weeks. For now lets talk about a $300 purchase that will involve some time and elbow grease on your part. First let us go to Ebay, The part the Marine intake. This comes with an open plenum , same long runners that most of you don't even know that we have, an aluminum instead of plastic upper, and last but not least REPLACEABLE INJECTORS !! OOOOOHHH ! I'd say a realistic 20 HP gain right from the start. with the stock injectors ! You laugh at only 20HP ! This is only one mod, when combined with the others mentioned on this site will provide an even higher HP return. Now this is for the naysayers who will somehow try to refute this.

How much HP does the typical V8 have at the wheels ? Not at the crank but at the wheels. Now we just spent $300 and have the same amount. I can see the keyboards all lighting up. Trans am this , Trailblazer SS this, Corvett this. V8 V8 V8. We Have a V6 , and when I smoke the Trans ams , the trailblazers, the Corvetts , they all ask what am I running? I smile and say a vortec V6 ! The Contempt comes , the look of disbelief. the feighning of gladness, and they walk away ! Usually talking trash . And before they leave the same questions always comes up. How Much did you spend ? What shop built it for you? And it must have cost a fortune ! I reply Nah I did it myself ,in the driveway.

My Blazer has everything from a coilover front suspension to a intercooled supercharger and yes it still has the 4 wheel drive ! and 4 doors. I'm sure that you can find the post for the Marine intake swap online. With this , I will leave you now , till next post.

Now that we have talked about the Marine intake, let's talk about sparkplugs. How mundane and boring are they ? Well I think sparkplugs are the greatest thing since sliced bread ! Just by looking at and anaylising them So much can be known about your engine. Just get good ones. Iridium plugs are very durable, not as conductive as copper, better than brass, But come no where near silver. Silver makes sense ! Gold would be better if it was more durable. Silver still ranks at the top !

Before installing them just make sure that they are gapped, and clean around the holes before insertion.

Before putting on new wires , pull out your multimeter and test them !

Test the cap also !!

Now think ignition. Crane ,Morroso, Summit , whoever ! Just get one ! You will appreciate it for your later mods ! Also get the highest coil output that you can find , at least 48000v.

Ignition Module, YOU NEED MORE SATURATION OF THE SPARK ! DYNA MOD comes to mind.

These updates should take care of your electric side of your engine for now. Next post I will talk about Your Y pipe and C A I and your fuel pump !

I wonder how many of you performance guy's have ever changed your transmission filter or fluid ? Maybe the differential fluid? Any fluids ever ? Don't talk to me about performance when you don't even take care of the basics ! Those that do , read on. Those that don't , GO TO PEPBOYS OR ANY OTHER PARTS STORE !! Then get back to this post.

Lets talk power to weight . Say you have 200hp in a 4000lb blazer. now you have 200hp in a 3800lb blazer , or a 3600lb blazer. Do you think that weight makes a difference ? Loose the spare tire ! Get a can of fix a flat ! Its good enough for a Corvette why can't we do it ? But if you have to keep a spare, Get a doughnut . Loose the weight set out of the rear ! Get rid of the snap on fullsize toolbox ! Take out the junk !

Now about your friends. Lets say you have 4 Friends, they all want to feel the power of your now 3600lb truck, so let's all pile in , before we get to that deserted back road lets stop at burger king . you know 2 of your friends are hungry , they have to support their 200lb girth ! You get to the road, and you hit it . What happened to all of the power that you had ? Lets say a 10 min idle at the drivethrough, a now very heated engine bay and maybe 600lb's of friends in your Blazer ! Get the picture !

I guess if you are reading this, you want more out of your Blazer. Be that HP or more miles per gallon. Guess what ! By having better performance you make your engine better, which in turn takes away more restrictions and if you kept your foot out of it (Disipline)your mpg will go up.

Now lets talk camshafts. First you must decide on what kind of power you are looking for. Stop light to stop light, 0-60, street, dragstrip, Bragging rights but no streetability, and daily strong driving. When you make up your mind, start calling all of the big Dawgs , Comp, Lunati, and the rest. talk to the customer service guy's and tell them what kind of driving and your anticipated HP. They will all ask you about your torque converter. This is perhaps the most important thing that they need along with your rear ratio and what rocker arms that you will use.

Camshafts and torque converters go hand in hand. Stall speeds , lock up, no lock up, Nitrous, Supercharged, Turbo and compression ! All need to be considered.

Replacing the General all around , made for the masses, camshaft is probably the single most performance oriented thing that you can do for your engine. But remember that it also involves your converter and rocker arms. At the least.