I hate to say this...fried amp?

This is the amp I bought:
http://pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?brand=pyle&cat1=Car%20Audio&cat2=Amplifiers&model=PLA2250

I got it for 94 dollars off of ebay.

I realize it's a cheap amp...so now that's out of the way.

I had it working for a day. Then one night I was driving around crazy. My amp is mounted onto the sub box...well the sub box went all over the place in my trunk, and to make a long story short, my power and ground were both disconnected when I popped the trunk to see what was wrong with the amp.

I had a 30amp fuse in it, the 20amps kept blowing and my amp seemed to hold 30amp very well. It had shut off only one time before for overheating, and I did lose a 30amp fuse before.

Anyways, after checking all of the wiring from the battery back to the amp...I don't know what else to do. The amp turns on, as in the logo lights up, but the power nor the protect light come on.

I'm not sure if my ground just sucks right now, because for some reason my multimeter is only showing 3 volts coming off my power line (4 gauge, I had the ground probe of the multimeter on the ground terminal for the ground wire).

So the amp does "turn on", but neither the power nor the protect light comes on, and I've checked all wiring. It's all connected, and that fuse in the amp isn't blown either. I'm just not sure what else to do, I'd rather not get a new amp unless I have to.

the auto turn-on wire is what is lighting the logo, sounds like the fuse at the battery is fried.

That was the problem...but two days later...the amp really does fry.

I was swapping out spark plug wires earlier today, and it started raining, I'm assuming that contributed to the amp being fried. It blew the 30amp fuse in the amp, and when I swapped out fuses, as soon as the fuse was put in (with the car turned off), the amp went up in smoke with the brand new fuse, then the power cord went bats*it insane on me...

I bought a new one from wal-mart (I don't have a great budget), a Sony XM-1652Z (Xplod). It runs very hot though, but at least it actually turns off when it's overheating, unlike the Pyle of s*it.




Anyways, rather than making a new thread, I want ask the question here. I took notice that the amp seems to be putting a heavy strain on my electrical system. With each thump, the lights dim and the engine chokes slightly, and of course after the thump is over everything is back up to full power.

Is this something I should be worried about? My alternator is rated to output 105amps, and it's only a month old. I don't mind the loss of power for the brief time the thumps occur, I just want to make sure I'm not putting anything besides my amp at risk.

BTW it's an Oldsmobile 1988 Cutlass Ciera.

try doing the big 3. I am having a hard time believing anything from walmart could cause that big of a drain on your electrical system.

Is that upgrading all of the battery cables?

Also, I'd be more than happy to make a short video of my electrical system under stress if you'd like to see what exactly's going on.

yea, alternator to battery, battery gnd to chassis gnd and battery gnd to engine gnd.

This is the amp I bought:
http://pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?brand=pyle&cat1=Car%20Audio&cat2=Amplifiers&model=PLA2250

I got it for 94 dollars off of ebay.

I realize it's a cheap amp...so now that's out of the way.

I had it working for a day. Then one night I was driving around crazy. My amp is mounted onto the sub box...well the sub box went all over the place in my trunk, and to make a long story short, my power and ground were both disconnected when I popped the trunk to see what was wrong with the amp.

I had a 30amp fuse in it, the 20amps kept blowing and my amp seemed to hold 30amp very well. It had shut off only one time before for overheating, and I did lose a 30amp fuse before.

Anyways, after checking all of the wiring from the battery back to the amp...I don't know what else to do. The amp turns on, as in the logo lights up, but the power nor the protect light come on.

I'm not sure if my ground just sucks right now, because for some reason my multimeter is only showing 3 volts coming off my power line (4 gauge, I had the ground probe of the multimeter on the ground terminal for the ground wire).

So the amp does "turn on", but neither the power nor the protect light comes on, and I've checked all wiring. It's all connected, and that fuse in the amp isn't blown either. I'm just not sure what else to do, I'd rather not get a new amp unless I have to.

Read the newbie threads! Plye is NOT RECOMMENDED :evillol:

Read the newbie threads! Plye is NOT RECOMMENDED :evillol:

actully with amps it mostly is about build quality, accurate the power is and how well it's cooling is and possable the equalizer