Rearend Gasket Replace

On my 01 supercrew i changed gasket where driveshaft hooks into rearend. Now when i takeoff theres a clunk like the transmission turns then drive shaft then rearend its like it all has to hook up each time. I did undo shaft turn 180 degrees hook back up same thing. Also put limited slip additive in still there. Any ideas ???? DAVE

When you say you changed the gasket, are you talking about the pinion seal, or does this differential have a removeable carrier?? Anyway, if you removed the yoke to replace the gasket, or seal, the torque on the pinion nut controls the bearing preload, and has an effect on pinion depth. Grab the yoke, and see if you have up and down movement. If shouldnt have any movement up and down. Twist it back and forth, with the trans in neutral, there should be very little backlash. If you have slack, recheck the pinion nut.

Uncle ive checked this there is no up and down i can turn it a little but i checked my yukon and its about the same. What kind of torque should i have on this nut? And yes it was the seal dont know why i said gasket...THANKS DAVE

Actually, there is no torque spec , except for the dana 60, and 80 i think. I mentioned torque, just in reference to making sure it was tight. Here is a short version of the recommended procedure for most integral carrier type diff`s. With wheels, brake drums, and driveshaft removed, use an inch # torque wrench to measure the bearing preload. Rotate the pinion nut several times with the wrench, and note the reading. When you reassemble it, tighten the nut to around 150# initially, check the preload, and keep tightening and checking till you get the proper preload. This is basically the recommended method. But it is also recommended to use a new nut(as it is a locknut), and a new preload sleeve. I dont use this precedure because, these parts arent available locally without ordering them and waiting several days, which is not an option when someone needs the vehicle right now.lol I use the same procedure you would to install wheel bearings, and use lock tite on the threads. Ive never had a problem or recall doing it this way. Also, the yoke on some is keyed with a wide spline, and has to be properly aligned when reinstalled. If you had to hammer it on, or use the nut to draw it in, you may have cracked the yoke, and that could be your clunk, ive seen it happen alot. Sorry i cant send you diagrams and instructions, my scanner is down right now.