90 taurus sho.... no spark

I just bought a 1990 taurus sho for 200$, car is absolutely mint with 70k original miles, problem is, there is no spark. I have no idea were to look, what to test, or how to test it, looking for maybe a good schematic, or diagram for anything it could possibly be, or maybe just someone with some good knowledge of these cars to help me out. Oh, it is not the timing belt, i dont believe anyway, car turns over with good compression. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

The crankshaft position sensor was a common part to fail on the Gen 1 and Gen 2 SHO. The trouble is if you need to replace it, you may as well replace the water pump and timing belt at the same time to avoid double labor. To have an independent shop do the water pump and timing belt runs around $600, the sensor may add another $100 on to that total.

-Rod

is there a way to check if it is the cps? Also, can you maybe point me to somewhere online that would give me instructions, or info on how to change it. I plan on doing the work myself.

Yeah, if you are not getting any signal from the CKP sensor (the CPS is the camshaft position sensor) to the ignition module, the coil will never be told to spark. You could use a DMM or (better) oscilloscope to measure the signal from the CKP. You should get a fluctuating voltage or square wave if the sensor is working.

You may be able to find more specifics from www.shotimes.com.

-Rod

I cant just use a voltmeter, or a test light? I dont even know how to get to the crankshaft position sensor. Also, i know this is probably a stupid question for obvious reasons. I ran the key on engine off test and got code 21, and 24, ect and act sensors, i would guess this was beacause i couldnt start the car and get it to normal operating temp. I looked at shotimes, couldnt find anything.

I cant just use a voltmeter, or a test light?

Sorry, a DMM is "Digital MultiMeter," sometimes also referred to as a voltmeter. Yes, you could use a voltmeter, probably even an analog meter if you can properly bias the CKP.

The link from the "Care and Feeding" section of shotimes for the CKP replacement is:
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=72

-Rod

OK, thanks alot for your help, with your help, and of course shotimes, I have the info i need to change the timing belt, crank position sensor, and water pump. Funny, when i bought the car, the guy said it was the fuel shut off :shakehead, HA. I had no clue about the 60k maintnance, the valve lash, or whats this i hear about replacing the 9.25" clutch with a 9.75? Good thing i only payed 200$ for the car, it looks like its going to be a money pit.

can you help me out, and maybe make me a list of everything i need to do the 60k maintnance? Im sure there are some gaskets or bolts, or some little things im going to have to buy seperate. Im just trying to make sure i have everything i need before i remove the first bolt.

Thanks again.

Well, due to time constraints, I paid someone to do the 60k maintenance on my first SHO, a 1993. My second SHO was a 1998 with the V8 and the maintenance is different on that.

I would expect the SHOTimes site to have the tools called out that you should need. I'd suggest having a new timing belt, new water pump, new CKP sensor, new serpentine belt, and possibly even a new belt tensioner on had when you tackle the job. Oh, don't forget the roll of Shop Towels.

The Yamaha V-6 engine is actually quite robust when properly maintained. The differential, steering components, and body panels are about the only items prone to failure from my recall. I had VERY few issues with my SHOs and enjoyed them tremendously.

-Rod

ok, thanks alot man, I have always liked these cars, and cannot wait until i get mine going. Couple more quick questions, first, this car has 90k, not 70k, sorry miles on it, should i be looking into the valve lash problem, or dont worry about it too much? Also, while digging around the engine compartment, I found two harnesses not connected, one oval shaped one down below underneath the throttle body, and one red triangular shaped one up in the drivers side corner behind the shock tower, are these something ford did not use on the sho, maybe for the atx? Or should i be looking for where they go?

Sorry, looking around, I see this timing belt component kit, what is this, is this something i need, or just the belt? Also, am i going to need a gasket set, and or crank seal?

The valve lash adjustment is recommended at 60k miles, I believe. I highly doubt it will cause your starting issue, so I wouldn't worry about that until you get the car running. I don't think there would be much double-labor in doing that after the timing belt.

The red triangular connector sounds like the Electronic Engine Control (EEC) connector. This is where the scan tool connects to your car to perform diagnostics, etc. Make sure the wires are in good condition. A while back there was someone having starting issues that turned out to be melted wires for the EEC connector. The replaced them with a harness from a donor car and, voila, their car started and ran fine.

As for the connector under the throttle body, I don't know if it's supposed to be open or connected. Is there anything that it could reach that is unplugged and uses a similar connector?

If you plan to tackle this timing belt job, get a good service manual for your car. You can go through the steps to replace the various components you are asking about and assess the condition of the parts on your car. If you see you will need to remove some bolts, but the ones on your car are rounded off, then you know you'll need to replace them. If your crank seal is not leaking, and the procedure doesn't say you need to remove it, then you probably don't need to plan to replace it.

As for what is in the timing kit, I don't know. It probably contains the timing belt and timing belt tensioner, along with any gaskets that you will definitely need. You may want to check with the parts store to find out what they typically contain. If it comes with the tensioner, and it's not a lot more expensive, it is probably worth getting.

-Rod

Well, got her all taken apart today, took a little longer than expected, had a lug nut lock on passenger tire, but no key, tryed everything, then whent ahead with the tire on, that was fun. :banghead: Still, pretty much everything came apart without a hitch, except the timing covers, middle and bottom. They broke, in a few places, so i probably have to get new ones, unless an absolute perfect seal is not nessecary, then i could probably JB weld them, what do you think? Also, I didnt see any signs that would point to the water pump leaking, isnt that what makes the crank sensor go bad, and if so, wouldnt there be something to give it away inside the timing cover?

Thanks for all of your help pointing me in the right direction. I'll keep you posted.

Did you not check the CKP sensor with your meter before tearing into this? The ignition module mounted on the crossover tube (you would have removed this tube and module to get the timing cover off) would help you quickly determine if the sensor is working or not.

Granted, if you don't know whether or not the timing belt has ever been changed, it is a good idea to replace the belt and water pump, but knowing whether or not the CKP sensor is working would have been helpful prior to taking it all apart.

As for the wheel key, if that locking lugnut is a factory lock, there may be a key for it tethered to the lugnut wrench in the trunk with the wrench. Ford usually cables the wrench and key together.

I would expect JB Weld or, probably better, hot melt glue/Automotive GOOP to be sufficient for fixing the cracks in the timing belt cover. Scuff the surface of the cover up a bit with an X-Acto knife or similar, then apply the glue. I suggest hot melt or GOOP because it remains more flexible and can handle temperature changes better than JB Weld.

-Rod

I'm hoping someone can help me with a problem with my 98 Taurus SHO. Sporadically my theft light will come on while driving and blink rapidly. I know that the next time I try to start it it will be dead. I have put in a new battery but still have the problem. It has been going on for about a year with frequent service checks at the dealership and independent garages. It is now becoming more frequent. It is at the dealership service center now where they have had it for 4 days and can't find the problem. After jumping the car it will run fine and I can go to the store and shut it off and it will be fine. But then maybe a day later or so it will be dead. I suspect something wrong with the anti theft system. Help! I need my car fixed.