Interior Lights

New development in the trials and tribulations of this PA owner. :banghead: I am suspecting that my door handle/switch/something-or-another is malfunctioning. I have noticed for quite a while that when I turn off the car and the Retained Accessory Power is on (radio stays on), that when I open the driver's door, the radio doesn't turn off. When other doors are opened, the radio turns off. If I open the driver's door open and the radio is still going, I can pull on the interior door handle and if I pull it out a little stronger, it will turn off the radio. I have learned to live with that for a while...however...last night, I noticed that when I open my car door (without unlocking it...I leave it unlocked in the garage), that the interior lights will not come on. I can open another door and they'll come on...or I can turn the light switch to turn them on. Just not when opening the driver's door. I don't know if the two problems are related. Also, when I use the remote to unlock the car, the interior lights come on just fine. Is this an easy fix? (the desired answer is yes, by the way :wink: )

Topher, I believe I know where to look. I searched online and found that the '01 PA has the same door lock actuator assembly as the '91+ models. My interior lights gave me problems, at first by staying on all the time. Then it got to the point where they wouldn't come on at all with the driver door opened. I searched the door jamb and found no switch for the interior lights, but then realized the switch is built into the door lock actuator. I manually snapped the latch shut with the door open, and wiggled it to see my interior lights start flashing. When you said you have to excessively pull your door handle to make the radio shut off, the connecting rod leading to that latch/ actuator assembly must be moving the mechanism just enough for the circuit inside to open. Try messing with that latch by pushing it closed with the door opened and see if your radio go off and/ or your lights when you tap or wiggle that latch. If your lights or radio start cutting on and off, you can bet you have a worn switch inside that actuator assembly!

Thanks, Loekee. I'll try that tonight after work.

I tried closing the latch with the door open, then using a screwdriver to jiggle around the latch...no flicker of lights. But I got out the WD-40 and sprayed it in the latch area and now, the lights go on when the door opens. Time will tell if the rest works as it should, but maybe all it needed was to be loosened up to work again. Keep your fingers crossed!

I tried closing the latch with the door open, then using a screwdriver to jiggle around the latch...no flicker of lights. But I got out the WD-40 and sprayed it in the latch area and now, the lights go on when the door opens. Time will tell if the rest works as it should, but maybe all it needed was to be loosened up to work again. Keep your fingers crossed!

I had tried using WD-40 as well, but it didn't fix the problem as I had hoped. The latch/ door lock actuator and interior light switch assembly are connected with plastic gears. These gears were worn out and wouldn't always catch, causing my interior light issues. That could be the same problem you're facing, now.

It would (by chance) be something that could be replaced without tearing apart the whole door panel, would it? I don't mind trying to replace it myself if it can be removed from the outside.

I have an extended warranty on the car and can pay $100 to have it all fixed, but as this problem has been intermittent, I would most likely get the "we tried to replicate the problem, but couldn't, there's nothing wrong, so please pay $95 for the diagnostic time" from the dealer...and with my luck, it would go completely out about a month later, at which time, I'd have to pay the $100 deductible.

"It would (by chance) be something that could be replaced without tearing apart the whole door panel, would it?"

I'm afraid not:(
The latch is bolted in place on the outside of the inner door shell, however, the connecting rods have to be disconnected from the latch assembly for removal (PITA!!!!...at least it is in '91-'96 park aves) Then the electrical connectors (one for the lights, the other for the lock actuator) have to be removed. Reason I say it's a pain is because of the work space....that and not being able to see what you're working on! I'm lucky to have thin fingers and arms to have fit in there! I have never torn into a later model PA, so it may be different, hopefully the engineers designed the doors so one could see and reach for the latch assembly. If you do decide to tackle this job yourself, here are some tips I had to learn the hard way!
1)Get your replacement latch assembly at the boneyard, they cost over 70 bucks new, just for the actuator! If the plastic gear connected to the latch side of the assembly is worn, then a new 70 dollar actuator won't do the trick. Most GM full-sized vehicles use the same assembly ('91- PAs, '92- LeSabres, '91-96 Olds 98, Bonnevilles, etc..
2)Purchase new connecting rod locking tabs (autozone carries them) Once you remove the rod, the tabs automatically wear and will not secure the rod again. This I learned the hard way and had to tear my door apart when the rod popped off the door handle! *This is also recommended in the factory service manual)
3)Before installation, test your "new" latch/actuator assembly by connecting the harnesses to it and latching it by hand. With only the driver door open, the lights should go off when you latch it manually (I'm sure your later model Buick has the delay dimming lights, so I guess you can hit your key fob and see if they will go out sooner that way)
4)Hit your power locks, make sure the atuator arm moves BOTH WAYS in lock and unlock
5)Install the latch and double check everything in your door to ensure you didn't forget to connect anything before putting it all back together!

I hope this helps you topher, or anyone else who needs to replace any of their door latches.
Frankly, I think I'd fork over the $100 just not to have to go through the trouble again....then again, it was my first time doing the job:)

I don't want to hijack your thread, but this information may or may not be helpful to you. I am having a problem with the interior lights on my mother's 98 park avenue. I found the circuit diagram and I have pasted a copy at http://www4.ncsu.edu/~pmswaney/diagram.pdf.

In my mother's case, the handle including the light and light switch for the left rear was ripped from the ceiling. My mother took it to the dealership where they broke the wires going to the bulb and the switch assembly. Then told her they could fix the whole thing for a price. However, I was hoping to fix it for her and save some money.

Right now none of her interior ligihts come on when a door is opened. She does not need the switch fixed but she definetly needs the lgihts to come on with a door opening. In the diagram on circuit 2 of 2, at the left rear reading lamp switch there are three wires: green, grey, and black. Using a multimeter I found that grey and black wires are connected. However, from the diagram this does not seem to be normal. Can anyone help me understand the diagram?

Thanks ahead of time