Problems with flushing antifreeze

I have a 99 regal gs, I was going to flush the antifreeze. And I think that I found the right bolt to take out to let the antifreeze out. I can turn it but it will not come out. Does anyone have a picture of the right one? because I am not sure if this is the right one. The one that I was trying to take off is on the dirvers side, lower corner and it faces the driver. It looked to be about a half of an inch in diameter and was plastic. Is this it?

Thanks in advance

That is correct. Use the end of a 1/4 inch drive handle and turn 1/8 - 1/4 inch counterclockwise. Be careful not to over do it or it will break. It does not remove for draining the radiator.

Welcome to AF.

Which one am I supposed to remove to drain the radiator if that one does not remove to drain the radiator?

Thanks in advance

Which one am I supposed to remove to drain the radiator if that one does not remove to drain the radiator?

Thanks in advance

:confused:

The white plastic plug mentioned is the radiator drain. It does not remove totally to drain the radiator. Turn it counterclockwise the 1/8 - 1/4 turn only and coolant will start draining out. Have some container there to catch the coolant. It that plug comes out or snaps off (breaks) then you will have a big problem and it will require replacement.

I can turn it but no coolant will come out, any suggestions?

Dip sticks and drain plugs are one thing that have not any got better over the years.:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Sometimes wiggle it a little or take the rad cap off helps or blow a little compressed air back threw it.
Just be careful with it as said they will break.
And if all else fails take the lower rad hose lose or off will get the job done.
But you will need a very big catch pan under it.
Good luck
MT

I believe he's talking about the "block" drain plug, ( NOT the rad butterfly screw) which ensures the system is COMPLETELY drained of ALL fluid.

You're aware i'm sure that when you open the rad drain screw, ONLY the fluid in the rad is drained. The rest of the dirty crap/rust is held in the block and heater core by the thermostat. (probably why a LOT of cores leak prematurly) So a true flush it is not.

Another method, but I don't recommend either, is to open the bleed valve on top of the thermostat. This will bleed out fluid, but will only be followed by water from the hose you are flushing with which may not flush the lower section of block anyway. Hense you get a block full of water or ice in winter lol , or an uncertain mixture in block.

*** I'm open to suggestions on the merits of disconneting the lower main 2 in. return hose to the block, if this will entirely drain the block?

It's much like draining brakes. You keep pumping till you see clear new fluid and no bubbles. O yes theres bubbles, lol. So, drain the block and heater core properly by opening the block bleed nut, and bobs your uncle. Continuosly check and refill over time.

He was referring to the radiator drain if you review his first post. The block drain plugs on a SII 3800 are a PITA for a DIY to access. In my flush procedure I have the field expedient method when a Prestone flush adapter is connected at the heater hose input.

Let me know if you want the procedure and I'll post it.

Yes I would appreciate you posting it.
Anyway, I know from my own screwed up logic for years all I did was drain the rad, then proceeded to drive around with a block full of "Rad flush" lol. My purpose was only to share my experience, and that there IS a rarely mentioned block drain plug.

Got anything for me on the 2 in. return hose theory ?

Yes I would appreciate you posting it.
Anyway, I know from my own screwed up logic for years all I did was drain the rad, then proceeded to drive around with a block full of "Rad flush" lol. My purpose was only to share my experience, and that there IS a rarely mentioned block drain plug.

Got anything for me on the 2 in. return hose theory ?

I don't think anyone disagrees with you about the engine block drain plugs. There are two, one fore and one aft but access is a PITA and IMO not worth the hassle. Here is the cooolant flush procedure. Take note at para. 5. Some people may not agree with this but it works.


I use Prestone Super Flush which is an additive you pour into the cooling system before doing the actual flush. For antifreeze/coolant I use Prestone Extended Life. It is in a yellow container and will appear green in color. 100% OAT and compatible with Dexcool. Procure Prestone or similar Flush Kit.

Here is a basic coolant flush procedure:

Install the flush T from the Prestone Flush Kit in one of the heater line hoses. I tap into the return line.

1. With engine cool, remove radiator cap and drain the radiator.
a. Turn drain plug (lower left engine-side of radiator) counter clockwise about 1/8 of a turn (may require a little force if it's not been opened in awhile--be careful because it's plastic). Use the end of a 1/4" drive handle. Plug will extend slightly as it loosens. Be sure to have a container in-place to collect the antifreeze.
2. Let all the antifreeze drain into a container.
3. Remove, drain and clean the antifreeze overflow bottle. Reinstall bottle.
4. Hook up a garden hose to the flush T and turn water on (not too high or you can damage seals/gaskets with the pressure). When water starts to run from the drain plug, start the engine and turn the heater on (make sure you leave the water running during this process).
5. When water runs clear (about 5 - 10 minutes), turn off car, then turn off water, and remove hose from T and cap it. Let remaining water run from drain plug. (Note: Not all of water will be drained out of system mainly the engine block. What I do is hook up a drain hose to the T connector, start engine and let the water pump push water out of the system. As soon as you see no water coming out turn engine off, remove drain hose and cap off T connector).
6. Close radiator drain plug and fill radiator with a 50-50 mix of antifreeze/distilled water (or buy premixed).
7. Start vehicle and bring to operating temperature to make sure thermostat opens. Add additional mixture as necessary until full.
8. Reinstall radiator cap.
9. Release any trapped air in cooling system by turning the plug on the top of the thermostat housing (be careful not to burn yourself). When only coolant (no air) flows from the plug, close it. You may have to repeat this several times to get all of the trapped air. Raising the front end of the car where the radiator is higher than the engine helps bleeding.
10. Add additional coolant as necessary. Also, fill overflow bottle to recommended level. Be careful not to open radiator cap if hot. You may have to do this several times.
11. Check for leaks.
12. Properly dispose of old antifreeze.