Looking for a how-to on decal making
mikemechanic
10-25-2006, 12:48 AM
Ok, I have a 1/16 Countach that has a really poorly moulded rear where all the emblems/scripts are. I would like to make my own decals because I can't seem to find any online. How do I make my own decals. What is the process? This is a fairly simple set of emblems so I think I can get my feet wet with these. Do I find the artwork online, or do I make it on the computer, what software works best and how do I get them in scale and print them in scale? Sorry for all the questions but I really have no idea. Thanks.
Mike.
Mike.
tigeraid
10-25-2006, 01:04 AM
Ok, I have a 1/16 Countach that has a really poorly moulded rear where all the emblems/scripts are. I would like to make my own decals because I can't seem to find any online. How do I make my own decals. What is the process? This is a fairly simple set of emblems so I think I can get my feet wet with these. Do I find the artwork online, or do I make it on the computer, what software works best and how do I get them in scale and print them in scale? Sorry for all the questions but I really have no idea. Thanks.
Mike.
I've have pretty good success with my own decals in the past, Mike. The GMC Safari Work Truck I'm in the process of doing will have a large number of decals too. Just my two cents:
1. Go buy Testors Decal kit. It comes with, I think, 6 sheets, 3 white and 3 clear. Use the white sheets if you have any white on the decals (since your printer doesn't print white) and use clear otherwise. You also need to buy a can of Testors decal sealer. I don't know if regular Testors clearcoat is the same or not, you can always test a spare decal to find out.
2. You'll need an inkjet printer btw, and I learned the hard way that places like Kinko's just plain won't let you put Testors paper in their printers anymore. So I hope you got one at home.
3. You'll need a image editing program like Paintshop Pro or Adobe Photoshop. If you can find particularly large, spot on pictures of the badges you need to make on the net, you can often just clean them up a bit in the program, set the size correctly, and print them. that's what I did with a customer's Thunderbird Supercoupe--he took dead-on, perfect angle pictures of the "THUNDERBIRD SC" on the back bumper, and I merely cut and paste. Bear in mind that when you use this method, the colours are often not "solid"--that is, they look fine from a distance, but once you zoom in or print them to the correct scale, the colours may not be as solid or vibrant. In this case you need to colour in the problem areas, or forget the cut and paste method and just draw your own stuff.
http://www.tigersdenhobbies.com/gallery/Mikes%20Thunderbird%20Supercoupe/mike_supercoupe_complete1.jpg
You can see the "THUNDERBIRD SC" on the bumper. That's homemade. (and yes, the pinstripe is poor--it was removed before I finished the model.)
4. Use the "print preview" option in the image editor program to make sure you're getting the right size ON THE PAPER, not on the screen. Measure with your dial caliper or whatnot to make sure it's exact, then do the measurements in the program. Worst case, print a bunch of test decals of different sizes on regular paper, cut them out with scissors, and line them up. This is a good step to take regardless, so you know where they're going and what size they should be.
5. Once you've got the size and alignment perfect, print your decals out on the Testors decal paper. Let the ink dry for a good few hours (I don't care what the can says, make sure it dries for a few hours) and then spray a couple of THIN coats of Decal Sealer onto the decals. If you're cheap like me and re-use the blank portions of the decal paper, you'll want to cover the blank parts before you seal.
6. Let the sealer dry well, I usually wait overnight. Then boom, you have decals. Cut and apply them the way you normally would. Just bear in mind that, in general, the Testors decal paper is a fair bit more flimsy than the good stuff that comes in kits or the aftermarket, so you really need to be careful--it tears easily when applying.
Hope this helps. I did a fair bit of trial and error to get good at the homemade stuff! :naughty:
Mike.
I've have pretty good success with my own decals in the past, Mike. The GMC Safari Work Truck I'm in the process of doing will have a large number of decals too. Just my two cents:
1. Go buy Testors Decal kit. It comes with, I think, 6 sheets, 3 white and 3 clear. Use the white sheets if you have any white on the decals (since your printer doesn't print white) and use clear otherwise. You also need to buy a can of Testors decal sealer. I don't know if regular Testors clearcoat is the same or not, you can always test a spare decal to find out.
2. You'll need an inkjet printer btw, and I learned the hard way that places like Kinko's just plain won't let you put Testors paper in their printers anymore. So I hope you got one at home.
3. You'll need a image editing program like Paintshop Pro or Adobe Photoshop. If you can find particularly large, spot on pictures of the badges you need to make on the net, you can often just clean them up a bit in the program, set the size correctly, and print them. that's what I did with a customer's Thunderbird Supercoupe--he took dead-on, perfect angle pictures of the "THUNDERBIRD SC" on the back bumper, and I merely cut and paste. Bear in mind that when you use this method, the colours are often not "solid"--that is, they look fine from a distance, but once you zoom in or print them to the correct scale, the colours may not be as solid or vibrant. In this case you need to colour in the problem areas, or forget the cut and paste method and just draw your own stuff.
http://www.tigersdenhobbies.com/gallery/Mikes%20Thunderbird%20Supercoupe/mike_supercoupe_complete1.jpg
You can see the "THUNDERBIRD SC" on the bumper. That's homemade. (and yes, the pinstripe is poor--it was removed before I finished the model.)
4. Use the "print preview" option in the image editor program to make sure you're getting the right size ON THE PAPER, not on the screen. Measure with your dial caliper or whatnot to make sure it's exact, then do the measurements in the program. Worst case, print a bunch of test decals of different sizes on regular paper, cut them out with scissors, and line them up. This is a good step to take regardless, so you know where they're going and what size they should be.
5. Once you've got the size and alignment perfect, print your decals out on the Testors decal paper. Let the ink dry for a good few hours (I don't care what the can says, make sure it dries for a few hours) and then spray a couple of THIN coats of Decal Sealer onto the decals. If you're cheap like me and re-use the blank portions of the decal paper, you'll want to cover the blank parts before you seal.
6. Let the sealer dry well, I usually wait overnight. Then boom, you have decals. Cut and apply them the way you normally would. Just bear in mind that, in general, the Testors decal paper is a fair bit more flimsy than the good stuff that comes in kits or the aftermarket, so you really need to be careful--it tears easily when applying.
Hope this helps. I did a fair bit of trial and error to get good at the homemade stuff! :naughty:
MattRS2000
10-25-2006, 08:21 AM
Great post tigeraid, that is just perfect for guys like me who are interested in beginning to make their own decals.
Thanks again!
This should go in the how-to section.
Thanks again!
This should go in the how-to section.
Gamerxz
10-25-2006, 09:52 AM
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n198/gamerxz2/DSC00692.jpg
Almost the whole body is done with custom decals.. Your could use inkjet what tigeraid said. But in my opinion use laser printers ... and as for the decal paper u need a different type compared to inkjet. Laserprinters give u much sharper and brighter colours. And as for graphics design i use Adobe illustrator and paintshop pro. If u plan to use alps like me .... u have to do a multi layer graphics... one picture design in black so that the alps can print out a base of white follow by the actual design with colours so the printer can print out the rest of the colours for the decal sheet.
Almost the whole body is done with custom decals.. Your could use inkjet what tigeraid said. But in my opinion use laser printers ... and as for the decal paper u need a different type compared to inkjet. Laserprinters give u much sharper and brighter colours. And as for graphics design i use Adobe illustrator and paintshop pro. If u plan to use alps like me .... u have to do a multi layer graphics... one picture design in black so that the alps can print out a base of white follow by the actual design with colours so the printer can print out the rest of the colours for the decal sheet.
Nutsforcars
10-25-2006, 10:39 AM
Gameryx's description is a really good how to.
I did my decals in a very similar way. One "flaw" I found with inkjet printing, is that the ink is water-soluble- that's why you need to put on the clear coat. When I first started, I just cut the decals, put them in water and applied them to the model - unfortunately the water seeped under the clearcoat through the cut and smushed the decals :banghead: .
To prevent this, you can either cut at a distance from the actual print (really only works for clear decals) or spray another layer of clear coat after cutting the decals (Careful, they tend to fly away really far from the air pressure).
I think, once I have used up my inkjet papers, I will switch to color laser, if I can find a place to print them. It will cut down on the hassles.
Cheers
Jens
I did my decals in a very similar way. One "flaw" I found with inkjet printing, is that the ink is water-soluble- that's why you need to put on the clear coat. When I first started, I just cut the decals, put them in water and applied them to the model - unfortunately the water seeped under the clearcoat through the cut and smushed the decals :banghead: .
To prevent this, you can either cut at a distance from the actual print (really only works for clear decals) or spray another layer of clear coat after cutting the decals (Careful, they tend to fly away really far from the air pressure).
I think, once I have used up my inkjet papers, I will switch to color laser, if I can find a place to print them. It will cut down on the hassles.
Cheers
Jens
tigeraid
10-25-2006, 10:43 AM
Good points, both. Laser printers are expensive as hell though, and most people don't have access to em. Just my two cents.
mikemechanic
10-25-2006, 07:00 PM
Thanks for the help. I guess the next question is are there any tutorials around for using Paintshop or Photoshop? When it comes to these kinds of programs I am clueless. Thanks again.
Mike.
Mike.
Roca46
10-26-2006, 02:03 PM
Hey Mike check out this
http://perso.numericable.fr/~erievain/decalgb.htm
I hope that it helps
Roca.
http://perso.numericable.fr/~erievain/decalgb.htm
I hope that it helps
Roca.
mikemechanic
10-26-2006, 06:04 PM
Hey Mike check out this
http://perso.numericable.fr/~erievain/decalgb.htm
I hope that it helps
Roca.
Thanks Roca. That help alot. Never used photo-editing software before so this gives me a little idea as to where to start.
Mike.
http://perso.numericable.fr/~erievain/decalgb.htm
I hope that it helps
Roca.
Thanks Roca. That help alot. Never used photo-editing software before so this gives me a little idea as to where to start.
Mike.
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