Acceleration jerk/slip

1995 ford taurus 6 cylinder 101000 miles. Seems out of no where when im driving doing say 45+ mph, car tends to jerk/slip and doesnt excellerate for an x amount of seconds. As this happens, the check engine light comes on but then dissapears when everythign goes back to normal. Thought it was the tps so i changed it but same issue. Has a new distributor cap + rotor, new plugs, oil + filter changed recently, yet cant figure out the problem. After giving it gas a few times it will then catch but this problem happens all to often sometimes within min apart. Are the codes stored in the computer even after the check engine light goes out? Any ideas what could be causing this issue? thanx in advance.

Yes, there can be codes stored.

I'd stop by an Autozone or Advance Auto Parts and have them scan the code. I believe they do it for free.

My 98 Taurus was experiencing the same thing, the code came back on an air-fuel mixture issue pointing at the O2 sensors before the cat. Mine has been intermittent. At this point I am looking at getting the O2 sensors, but not yet as the car is running fine right now. Might be the same issue, but only getting the code read will you know for sure. Let us know. Good luck.

1995 ford taurus 6 cylinder 101000 miles. Seems out of no where when im driving doing say 45+ mph, car tends to jerk/slip and doesnt excellerate for an x amount of seconds. As this happens, the check engine light comes on but then dissapears when everythign goes back to normal. Thought it was the tps so i changed it but same issue. Has a new distributor cap + rotor, new plugs, oil + filter changed recently, yet cant figure out the problem. After giving it gas a few times it will then catch but this problem happens all to often sometimes within min apart. Are the codes stored in the computer even after the check engine light goes out? Any ideas what could be causing this issue? thanx in advance.

When the plugs, cap and rotor were changed, were the spark plugs wires replaced also? It sounds like you might be experiencing a misfire. If so, there will likely be a stored code, and it will probably have the form of "P030x" where x is 0-6 corresponding to the cylinder number the misfires were detected on. A "0" would mean numerous misfires were detected, but the effected cylinder could not be determined.

You may also want to replace the fuel filter and add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to the fuel tank as well just for good measure.
-Rod

Thanx for all the suggestions guys. The spark plug wires were replaced at the same time. This problem occoured well after the spark plugs, cap & rotor, wires were replaced so i doubt thats the problem. Was thinking maybe the speed sensor as speedometer needle bounces around after 45+ mph but that problem has been with the car since i bought it last winter. I dont think im gonna spend any more money on second guessing myself wether the problem is this or that untill i get the diagnostics back from autozone. Hopefully it wont be a serious/expensive problem but what ever it is ill repost with my results. Please feel free to repost with any other suggestions as i dont have time to get it cheched out till monday. Thanx again for all the replies.

Re read the post. Vehicle is a 95. This is EECIV. (more than likely). Not sure if the parts stores will read anything but OBD II.

Oops, good catch way2old. I missed the model year. Around here, many of the chain parts stores can read pre-OBD-II codes on the Big 3 brands (with the exception of the MECS Fords).

-Rod

Well i took it to autozone and way2old was right. The 95 model does not use the ODBII hence he couldnt check it but i went to another mechanic and he didnt charge me to find the problem using his code reader. He tested it out and said he found nothing but he left the car for a few min with the meter attached and the car running and i looked at the screen. What i saw was:
"Code 10 --- Snap Throttle"
Now i have no clue what this means. When he came back i told him the code i saw and so he redid the test but nothing came up the second time around and told me that the car has stored no codes because the check engine light, when comes on for the split second, goes out hence the codes are not stored. He told me to bring it in again another time so that he can drive it and get a feel for what the probelm could be.
At this point the problem has gotten worse. Just randomly as the car is moving 40mph+ wether the gas is being pressed just slightly or moderatly, the car tends to jerk a bit as if the brakes were being tapped on. At the same time the check engine light comes on and goes off as the problem goes away. This whole process lasts less than 2 seconds but will happen about once every mile the car goes.
As a side note he presure checked the egr and found it to fine so thats not the problem nore is the tps as that was just changed. I did change the radiator if that helps any. No fluids are leaking (tranny & oil) and levels are good. seems that the problem started about 2 weeks after the radiator was replaced though.
I sure hope someone else may have an idea of what the problem could be cause its driving me crazy :banghead: . Thanx for any response given.

I second the suggestion under #5 to add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank(if you haven't already done so). The fuel injector cleaner has solved so many weird problems for me in fuel injected Fords, it's always the first thing I reach for.

:swear: I have an '88' ford taurus & it just started doing the same thing today.I was told it could be a motor mount(i don't think so).I sprayed some carb cleaner on the 4 injectors on the manifold & also sprayed the linkage & carberator,or (whatever it is).That was when the jerkingetc...started.did i do something wrong when i sprayed the carb cleaner? What can i do to fix the problem? :screwy: me... HELP!!!!

I second the suggestion under #5 to add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank(if you haven't already done so). The fuel injector cleaner has solved so many weird problems for me in fuel injected Fords, it's always the first thing I reach for.


There r so many fuel injector cleaners out there (lucas, gumout, STP, etc...) which do u recommend?

There r so many fuel injector cleaners out there (lucas, gumout, STP, etc...) which do u recommend?
I prefer the STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner in the black plastic container. It usually has a sticker or extra cardboard on it that says made with jet fuel(not that the jet fuel necessarily makes it any better). Add the fuel injector cleaner after you get to the gas pump but before you put the gas in. I would use one 12 oz. container to a full tank of gas. Hope this solves your problem. It has done wonders for me. Please keep us posted.

There r so many fuel injector cleaners out there (lucas, gumout, STP, etc...) which do u recommend?

I've had such remarkable results with the Lucas brand I recommend it to everyone. And, though this sounds a bit corny, both my father and my gearhead uncle (has worked on engines from navy shipboard diesels in the 40's and 50's on up to modern gasoline engines) both swear by the stuff.

That having been said, I've actually had pretty good results with the $1 Walmart standard fuel injector cleaner to straighten things out after a few thousand miles with the crummy gas we get up here in northern New York state. I'd recommend you get a bottle of the Lucas first, though. I've never had such fast and sure results with a bottle of cleaner as I have using that goop. Mileage went up, too, but that's just me being a bean counter. :wink:

The other problem it sounds like is a vaccuum leak. My 96 Lumina had a VERY similar problem and it suffered from a leaking brake power booster. Possibly a sticking valve, too, so try an engine flush or some Marvel Mystery Oil. I know some people may poo-poo it, but a little bit added to your oil certainly won't hurt.

Good luck!

OK.. I havent put the injector cleaner in yet (lucas fuel injector cleaner) although i did buy it but something happened today where my girl came to a stop sign and the engine cut out. She was able to start it up again right after it stalled.
So, being as how a new symptom has ocoured i feel this problem to be linked with my original post. Im hoping someone can put 2 & 2 together and come up with something? Im "guessing" (based on comments i found in search with similar problems) that either the Mass airflo sensor is dirty and/or there is carbon build up in the throttle body. I do know that when she starts the car in the morning (or whenever for the first time any particular day) that the gas pedal sticks and needs one hard tap to free it up as to feel normal again. Im assuming the reason for that is carbon build up on the throttle plate?
Any response to this would be apreciated.

I think your diagnosis of carbon on the throttle plate is VERY appropriate here. That could solve all your issues. When the throttle is closed, like when coming to a stop, there is an Idle Air Control (IAC) passage and valve to divert enough air around the throttle plate to keep the engine running. If there is a large build up of carbon in the throttle body, enough to cause the throttle to stick, there is a good chance the IAC system is restricted as well. While you're spraying out the throttle body, remove the IAC valve and give it and the passages a good cleaning as well.

Be sure to caution your daughter that the car will accelerate more rapidly now, so to be careful when leaving stops in rain, snow, or ice.

-Rod

Well... i have put the fuel injector cleaner in the tank and ran it till the next fill-up as well as clean the throttle body and MAS but problem still persists. I asked a mechanic and he told me that maybe its a sensor going bad on the tranny where, when the car tries to shift it will shift from say 2nd to 4th gear automaticaly and bogging the engine down in the process? Dos this make sence? I dunno but it doesnt feel like a tranny problem more like an engine problem wheres theres no power for a split second. Kinda like hesitation when a car starts to move but in my case, the car is in motion (35+mph) and for no reason it hesitates for less than 1 second. The problem appears to be no change so good news is that it isnt getting worse (yet) but the bad is that the problem still exists and may leave me stranded somewhere.
Any other suggestions would be great.

Have you checked the condition of the spark plugs and plug wires? When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

-Rod

The wires and plugs were recently replaced including the cap + rotor as well as oil but problem occoured 2 months later so i doubt these items r the problem. The fuel filter was not changed when i purchased the car 6 months ago. Now im thinking if the filter was clogged that it would hesitate all the time including idle but it doesnt. Also... if it were clogged why would the check engine light come on. i could wrong but i guess i can give it a try. How hard is it to replace the filter and where is it located?
Just as a side note, I cleaned the throttle body/plate with some carb cleaner and the pedal still sticks when first started up. Any ideas on this matter? Thanx

The fact that your problem began 2 months after you changed your spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor COULD be a clue to your problem. I would suspect the spark plug wires. Some of them are claimed to be real junk. I have got some bad wires that caused a hesitation, but that was back on points type ignitions. I would change the fuel filter also anyway. Don't rule anything out.

Strangely enough, I have noticed the same problem on my ’95 (158Kmi) beginning about 2 weeks ago. The ‘jerk’ is very faint and until this morning it seems that it happens when I’m holding the speed constant at about 35mph. This morning it seemed more spread out, as in anywhere from start to highway speed. My pedal also felt like it was sticking pretty badly- more than I’ve ever noticed before. Coasting and braking are flawless. And, interestingly enough, I changed out my radiator also, albeit about 2 months before I noticed this problem. Today I plan on picking up some Fuel Injection cleaner and taking a look at the throttle body. I’m guessing it won’t change anything on mine as it didn’t for you however . . . if that doesn’t work, it’s on to the plugs, as those haven’t been changed for awhile. Let me know if you make any progress and I’ll do the same-