Should I buy a 2004 Rodeo?
MrMGA
10-23-2006, 05:59 PM
I currently have a '95 Rodeo 3.2L 4WD with 104K miles on it. I have owned it for 5 years. I really enjoy it, but maintenance is costing about $1,000 per year. And the work never gets done right (see my previous posts.) I'm leaning towards buying something much newer. My first choice is a 2003 or 2004 4Runner, but I found out I can get a 2004 Rodeo for about half the price. In particular, I'm interested in a 2004 Rodeo with the 3.5L engine. My concern is reliability. Consumer Reports puts '99-'02 Rodeos (the last years for which they have sufficient data) on their "Used Cars to Avoid" list! In particular, those years get big black marks for engine and transmission reliability. Are the 2004 Rodeos any better? Is the 3.5L model different and better than the others?
Ramblin Fever
10-23-2006, 06:19 PM
If you can get the 3.5L Rodeo with the Aisan Werner transmission (Auto) - DO IT! That's a fine truck with a reputable tough tranny.
However, sounds like you need to locate an IMPORT mechanic who knows how to work on Isuzu's, though I can't remember all of the issues you have with your '95. I can tell you though, if you can find someone to fix that '95 right, that's still got a lot of life left at only 100k.
I don't know why the 99-'02's transmission marks are black, as those years have the same transmission my '91 & current '97 Rodeo's do - and as long as you maintain their fluid, and don't beat them to death, they'll last a long time. Had over 150k on my '91 Rodeo, and currently have 163k on this Rodeo, both automatics that've had a rough, towing 4x4 life and have never skipped a beat.
The 99-02's engines were the cause of a couple issues, the '98'-99's were known for cracking in cylinder #1 (IIRC) defect from the factory, I presume. And the '00-'02's were oil burners, again another defect.
But the '03-'04's are good trucks, the only concern I would have is whether or not you have a dealership that would provide warranty. In Colorado, there's only two Isuzu dealerships left, and neither one are close.
I also just purchased an '04 Tacoma that I believe has the same engine/transmission as an '04 Runner - and I can tell you I LOVE it, it's a fine truck in power, quality, etc. But, then I also have to say, if Isuzu had still been producing their small ISUZU trucks - like the kind in the late 80's -early 90's - I'd have bought one of those without a 2nd guess.
We almost bought one, some 16yrs ago, when we bought our '85 Toyota p/up, but the guy we were going to buy it from, changed his mind and we couldn't pass the deal on that Toyota.
However, sounds like you need to locate an IMPORT mechanic who knows how to work on Isuzu's, though I can't remember all of the issues you have with your '95. I can tell you though, if you can find someone to fix that '95 right, that's still got a lot of life left at only 100k.
I don't know why the 99-'02's transmission marks are black, as those years have the same transmission my '91 & current '97 Rodeo's do - and as long as you maintain their fluid, and don't beat them to death, they'll last a long time. Had over 150k on my '91 Rodeo, and currently have 163k on this Rodeo, both automatics that've had a rough, towing 4x4 life and have never skipped a beat.
The 99-02's engines were the cause of a couple issues, the '98'-99's were known for cracking in cylinder #1 (IIRC) defect from the factory, I presume. And the '00-'02's were oil burners, again another defect.
But the '03-'04's are good trucks, the only concern I would have is whether or not you have a dealership that would provide warranty. In Colorado, there's only two Isuzu dealerships left, and neither one are close.
I also just purchased an '04 Tacoma that I believe has the same engine/transmission as an '04 Runner - and I can tell you I LOVE it, it's a fine truck in power, quality, etc. But, then I also have to say, if Isuzu had still been producing their small ISUZU trucks - like the kind in the late 80's -early 90's - I'd have bought one of those without a 2nd guess.
We almost bought one, some 16yrs ago, when we bought our '85 Toyota p/up, but the guy we were going to buy it from, changed his mind and we couldn't pass the deal on that Toyota.
Ramblin Fever
10-23-2006, 06:22 PM
MrMGA - forgot to add, if my maintenance cost over $1k per year, I'd part with it too.
Thus the reason we had to finally let our '85 Toyota go, we'd put in about $3K this year alone, finally said enough was enough, and at 260K+ miles, we were tired of getting beat to death!
Thus the reason we had to finally let our '85 Toyota go, we'd put in about $3K this year alone, finally said enough was enough, and at 260K+ miles, we were tired of getting beat to death!
MrMGA
10-23-2006, 07:05 PM
MrMGA - forgot to add, if my maintenance cost over $1k per year, I'd part with it too.
I could live with the $1k per year maintenance cost. What drives me nuts is that I usually have to take the Rodeo back two or three times to get it done right. Granted, I go the "cheap" route. For example, I went to Sears Auto to get my CV boots replaced. Their price was around $400 compared to $900 for everybody else. It's a long story, but I had to take it back 2 times to get the job done right. I have several similar experiences. That's why I want something newer and under warranty.
I could live with the $1k per year maintenance cost. What drives me nuts is that I usually have to take the Rodeo back two or three times to get it done right. Granted, I go the "cheap" route. For example, I went to Sears Auto to get my CV boots replaced. Their price was around $400 compared to $900 for everybody else. It's a long story, but I had to take it back 2 times to get the job done right. I have several similar experiences. That's why I want something newer and under warranty.
MrMGA
10-23-2006, 07:14 PM
If you can get the 3.5L Rodeo with the Aisan Werner transmission (Auto) - DO IT! That's a fine truck with a reputable tough tranny.
Here's the deal I'm considering: 2004 Rodeo 2WD automatic with the 3.5L engine and the "Excessive Red" color package. Only 21,000 original miles and it looks like new. A local Buick dealer took it in on a trade. He wants $13,800 for it. Deal or No Deal?
P.S. I can live without 4WD; haven't used it on my '95 in 4 years.
Here's the deal I'm considering: 2004 Rodeo 2WD automatic with the 3.5L engine and the "Excessive Red" color package. Only 21,000 original miles and it looks like new. A local Buick dealer took it in on a trade. He wants $13,800 for it. Deal or No Deal?
P.S. I can live without 4WD; haven't used it on my '95 in 4 years.
Ramblin Fever
10-23-2006, 08:03 PM
Are you trading your '95 Rodeo? What are they going to give you for that?
Also, how long is the remaining factory warranty for?
It's been too long since I bought mine, but if I remember right, I had 5/50k standard bumper/bumper or was it 3/50k? I can't remember.
My powertrain was only covered for 6/60k; but your's may be 10/100k
But, I'd see if they can't do at least $3,500 or so for your '95 and do a KBB check on the value of the 2004.
Personally, I've had both the 4x4 and 4x2 Rodeo's, have never felt shorted or more confident in either one over the other - with the exception that the 4x2 had a much bigger engine. I also never experienced any more maintenance issues with the 4x4 versus the 4x2.
But, if I was in your situation where a warranty was worth having a car-payment, I would do it. Like I said, that's what we had to do with our '85 Toyota, otherwise, it was in need of a whole new engine rebuild for a 2nd time.
Also, how long is the remaining factory warranty for?
It's been too long since I bought mine, but if I remember right, I had 5/50k standard bumper/bumper or was it 3/50k? I can't remember.
My powertrain was only covered for 6/60k; but your's may be 10/100k
But, I'd see if they can't do at least $3,500 or so for your '95 and do a KBB check on the value of the 2004.
Personally, I've had both the 4x4 and 4x2 Rodeo's, have never felt shorted or more confident in either one over the other - with the exception that the 4x2 had a much bigger engine. I also never experienced any more maintenance issues with the 4x4 versus the 4x2.
But, if I was in your situation where a warranty was worth having a car-payment, I would do it. Like I said, that's what we had to do with our '85 Toyota, otherwise, it was in need of a whole new engine rebuild for a 2nd time.
MrMGA
10-23-2006, 09:15 PM
Are you trading your '95 Rodeo? What are they going to give you for that?
Also, how long is the remaining factory warranty for?
I may trade in the '95, but I won't tell the dealer that until I get his final cash price on the 2004. That way I'll flush out the true value of each. I expect he'll offer around $2,000 for the '95 and try to sell it for $3,500. I might do a little better if I fix the exhaust leak that popped up when I recently had the starter motor replaced. Yes, I took it back a second time and they didn't completely eliminate it. I gave up after that. (Like I said, I have many stories like that.)
The basic warranty on the 2004 is only 3 yrs/50K but the drivetrain warranty is 7 yrs/75K. That sounds good to me.
Also, how long is the remaining factory warranty for?
I may trade in the '95, but I won't tell the dealer that until I get his final cash price on the 2004. That way I'll flush out the true value of each. I expect he'll offer around $2,000 for the '95 and try to sell it for $3,500. I might do a little better if I fix the exhaust leak that popped up when I recently had the starter motor replaced. Yes, I took it back a second time and they didn't completely eliminate it. I gave up after that. (Like I said, I have many stories like that.)
The basic warranty on the 2004 is only 3 yrs/50K but the drivetrain warranty is 7 yrs/75K. That sounds good to me.
Ramblin Fever
10-23-2006, 10:13 PM
Either that, or keep the '95 as back-up for whenever you need a 2nd vehicle. I've come across that issue many times this last year when both the Rodeo and the old toyota were having issues and at times where in the shop at the same time.
Well a warranty WILL cover certain parts, but not the normal wear/tear items, in which, it would still be nice if you could find someone you trust.
I've never been to a Sear's automotive center, my one and only time of taking my Rodeo to someone other then a mechanic friend I've known for 20-some years, was when we lived in Las Vegas. The timing belt, waterpump was due for preventative maintenance at 60k, and I didn't know whether or not then, if it was an interference engine or not.
So, we opted to have it done at 59k to be safe - long story short, we had it done at Goodyear. They did the timing belt and the waterpump correctly; however, they forced the fan clutch, radiator and fan shroud back in at such an angle that they were grinding against the driving belts.
Let's just say that about 1yrs worth of headache - found other damage later in the year, and roughly $1k worth of damage had been done.
Goodyear fixed the majority of it at their cost - new belts, all new hoses (as the fan blade edges broke off sending hard plastic everywhere), new OEM radiator, new shroud and obviously new fan clutch.
Close to a year later, we found out the power steering pump had taken a beating and had to be replaced. By then we were already back in Colorado, and my mechanic had to cut out the power steering pump along with it's bracket - in his words, it had been mangled so badly he thought the front end of the truck had been smashed at one time.
We had to have the new bracket welded onto the truck and a new pump, all to the tune of $600.
Keep me posted and post a pic of the new rig.
Well a warranty WILL cover certain parts, but not the normal wear/tear items, in which, it would still be nice if you could find someone you trust.
I've never been to a Sear's automotive center, my one and only time of taking my Rodeo to someone other then a mechanic friend I've known for 20-some years, was when we lived in Las Vegas. The timing belt, waterpump was due for preventative maintenance at 60k, and I didn't know whether or not then, if it was an interference engine or not.
So, we opted to have it done at 59k to be safe - long story short, we had it done at Goodyear. They did the timing belt and the waterpump correctly; however, they forced the fan clutch, radiator and fan shroud back in at such an angle that they were grinding against the driving belts.
Let's just say that about 1yrs worth of headache - found other damage later in the year, and roughly $1k worth of damage had been done.
Goodyear fixed the majority of it at their cost - new belts, all new hoses (as the fan blade edges broke off sending hard plastic everywhere), new OEM radiator, new shroud and obviously new fan clutch.
Close to a year later, we found out the power steering pump had taken a beating and had to be replaced. By then we were already back in Colorado, and my mechanic had to cut out the power steering pump along with it's bracket - in his words, it had been mangled so badly he thought the front end of the truck had been smashed at one time.
We had to have the new bracket welded onto the truck and a new pump, all to the tune of $600.
Keep me posted and post a pic of the new rig.
MrMGA
10-24-2006, 01:41 AM
Keep me posted and post a pic of the new rig.
Sure - if I buy it. The dealer will have to come way down from the $13.8K he's asking. After all, the 2004s were only selling for $16K-$17K when they were brand new according to other posts on this forum. Two and a half years and 21,000 miles later, I'm thinking $12K is a reasonable offer.
P.S. - Your Goodyear story tops any of my horror stories, including the fiasco that ensued when I had Pep Boys replace the alternator. Or when Econo Lube overfilled the crankcase by 2 quarts of oil. Etc., etc.
Sure - if I buy it. The dealer will have to come way down from the $13.8K he's asking. After all, the 2004s were only selling for $16K-$17K when they were brand new according to other posts on this forum. Two and a half years and 21,000 miles later, I'm thinking $12K is a reasonable offer.
P.S. - Your Goodyear story tops any of my horror stories, including the fiasco that ensued when I had Pep Boys replace the alternator. Or when Econo Lube overfilled the crankcase by 2 quarts of oil. Etc., etc.
Ramblin Fever
10-24-2006, 01:46 AM
Needless, to say, this truck will NEVER return to anyone but my mechanic.
What's the KBB for the 2004? $13 doesn't sound bad, personally.
Not when I paid $23k for my '97 Rodeo back in March of '98, it barely had 11k miles and they threw in a few accessories, rotated/balanced the tires and did free oil changes for a year - course, there's not much talking down prices with the dealerships in Nevada.
Just paid $19k for my 2004 Tacoma with 25k miles - they were asking $24 for it, but I showed them the KBB value - that helped more then I thought it would.
What's the KBB for the 2004? $13 doesn't sound bad, personally.
Not when I paid $23k for my '97 Rodeo back in March of '98, it barely had 11k miles and they threw in a few accessories, rotated/balanced the tires and did free oil changes for a year - course, there's not much talking down prices with the dealerships in Nevada.
Just paid $19k for my 2004 Tacoma with 25k miles - they were asking $24 for it, but I showed them the KBB value - that helped more then I thought it would.
MrMGA
10-24-2006, 04:06 PM
What's the KBB for the 2004? $13 doesn't sound bad, personally.
KBB's "Suggested Retail Value" for the 2004 is $14,600, which is ridiculous and confirms in my mind that KBB is a mouthpiece for the dealers' association. More impartial sources (Edmunds, Consumer Reports) give a dealer retail value in the low to mid-$13K range, so I may have unrealistic expectations. However, KBB lists by far the lowest trade-in value at $10,700 (again, because they favor the dealers.) I'll use that in my negotiations with the dealer, who already threw the KBB retail value at me. Since they rely on KBB, they must have a cost basis of around $10,700 in it, right? So if I offer $12K, they're making a very reasonable profit of $1,300. Anyway, that will be my approach when I talk to them this afternoon. I'll be interested in their explanation of why KBB is so authoritative on the retail side but full of crap on the trade-in (i.e., cost/wholesale) side.
The bottom line is, I'll probably have to ante up around $13K to get the 2004. At that price, I have to consider the alternatives (e.g., slightly older 4Runners and Pathfinders.) It also occurs to me that the people who bought brand new 2004s in the $16K range (according to posts on this forum) got a damned good deal.
KBB's "Suggested Retail Value" for the 2004 is $14,600, which is ridiculous and confirms in my mind that KBB is a mouthpiece for the dealers' association. More impartial sources (Edmunds, Consumer Reports) give a dealer retail value in the low to mid-$13K range, so I may have unrealistic expectations. However, KBB lists by far the lowest trade-in value at $10,700 (again, because they favor the dealers.) I'll use that in my negotiations with the dealer, who already threw the KBB retail value at me. Since they rely on KBB, they must have a cost basis of around $10,700 in it, right? So if I offer $12K, they're making a very reasonable profit of $1,300. Anyway, that will be my approach when I talk to them this afternoon. I'll be interested in their explanation of why KBB is so authoritative on the retail side but full of crap on the trade-in (i.e., cost/wholesale) side.
The bottom line is, I'll probably have to ante up around $13K to get the 2004. At that price, I have to consider the alternatives (e.g., slightly older 4Runners and Pathfinders.) It also occurs to me that the people who bought brand new 2004s in the $16K range (according to posts on this forum) got a damned good deal.
Gizmo42
10-24-2006, 08:54 PM
Most dealers (and banks) use the NADA (http://www.nadaguides.com/home.aspx?l=1&w=28&p=0&f=5000) blue book. According to that one that '04 rodeo has a trade in value of $12.5k and retail value of $15k. Thats for the area I live in. It will vary by area. Also depends on how bad they want to get rid of it.
According to Isuzu's monthly dealer inventory (dont remember where I found it) there are still 8 brand new rodeos out there somewhere. Could probably get one for a good price if you could find it since its costing them money to sit on the lot. They have to make payments to Isuzu on them until they sell.
According to Isuzu's monthly dealer inventory (dont remember where I found it) there are still 8 brand new rodeos out there somewhere. Could probably get one for a good price if you could find it since its costing them money to sit on the lot. They have to make payments to Isuzu on them until they sell.
MrMGA
10-24-2006, 09:31 PM
According to Isuzu's monthly dealer inventory (dont remember where I found it) there are still 8 brand new rodeos out there somewhere.
Now that's a good piece of information. Those would have to be 2004s, right? I'll call the local Isuzu dealer about that tomorrow.
Now that's a good piece of information. Those would have to be 2004s, right? I'll call the local Isuzu dealer about that tomorrow.
Gizmo42
10-24-2006, 11:53 PM
I found it!
Here is the inventory list for september that was put out oct 3rd.
PICKUP: 2,355
RODEO: 8
AXIOM: 19
ASCENDER: 2,359
TROOPER: 0
http://www.isuzunewsbureau.com/press.php?category=16
Here is the inventory list for september that was put out oct 3rd.
PICKUP: 2,355
RODEO: 8
AXIOM: 19
ASCENDER: 2,359
TROOPER: 0
http://www.isuzunewsbureau.com/press.php?category=16
amigo-2k
10-25-2006, 12:38 AM
Ramblin Fever
10-25-2006, 12:44 AM
Yeah, but if you pick up a slightly *older* 4-runner or pathfinder for around that same price, it'll probably have over 50-60k miles, and very little warranty left.
I've been studying for quite some time, and I can say that here in Colorado, anyway, you can't touch a Toyota Tacoma or 4-runner for less then $15k unless it has over 60-70k miles or so.
You'll be back in the same boat within a short time frame.
Don't know about the value of the pathfinder, I've heard they're good trucks, but can be expensive to keep maintained as they age. My sister was looking at one after the transmission in her '02 Trailblazer crapped out, after several weeks of talking with owners, they all say they're excellent in younger mileage, but age terribly and get expensive.
I'm not aiming to steer you away from either - heck, I just bought me a Toyota, and I still want another '05+ Xterra; but money wise WITH reliability, you can't beat that YOUNG mileaged Rodeo.
Believe me, wish I could turn back the clock on my Rodeo to only say 21k miles!!
I've been studying for quite some time, and I can say that here in Colorado, anyway, you can't touch a Toyota Tacoma or 4-runner for less then $15k unless it has over 60-70k miles or so.
You'll be back in the same boat within a short time frame.
Don't know about the value of the pathfinder, I've heard they're good trucks, but can be expensive to keep maintained as they age. My sister was looking at one after the transmission in her '02 Trailblazer crapped out, after several weeks of talking with owners, they all say they're excellent in younger mileage, but age terribly and get expensive.
I'm not aiming to steer you away from either - heck, I just bought me a Toyota, and I still want another '05+ Xterra; but money wise WITH reliability, you can't beat that YOUNG mileaged Rodeo.
Believe me, wish I could turn back the clock on my Rodeo to only say 21k miles!!
MrMGA
10-25-2006, 04:42 PM
Looks like there are still about 20 or so New rodeo's available in CA.
I looked into that. They were all listed at one dealership. I called a salesman there. They don't have any of those. It's an error on the isuzudealers.com web site. He thinks maybe they were supposed be Ascenders.
I looked into that. They were all listed at one dealership. I called a salesman there. They don't have any of those. It's an error on the isuzudealers.com web site. He thinks maybe they were supposed be Ascenders.
MrMGA
10-25-2006, 07:26 PM
Yeah, but if you pick up a slightly *older* 4-runner or pathfinder for around that same price, it'll probably have over 50-60k miles, and very little warranty left.
but money wise WITH reliability, you can't beat that YOUNG mileaged Rodeo.
You're right about the pricing on the 4Runners and Pathfinders. That's what I'm finding here in Arizona. If anything, they may be higher here.
The 2004 Rodeo is tempting, but I have some concerns about it. It has the 3.5L "direct injection" engine that got rave reviews (i.e., 250hp/260ft-lbs. of torque and 23 mpg), but it was only made for 1 year and was only sold in a few Rodeos and Axioms. Given that it is a new, complicated, low-production engine, I have concerns about reliability. Even though it is covered by a fairly good warranty, I worry about parts availabilty and the dealers' lack of experience working on that engine.
I may hold on to my '95 for the time being and wait for a "great deal" on something else. There's no sense of urgency; my '95 still runs good. In any case, I don't think I would get much for it as a trade-in. I finally got rid of the dreaded ticking, but it still sounds like a diesel at idle and always will.
but money wise WITH reliability, you can't beat that YOUNG mileaged Rodeo.
You're right about the pricing on the 4Runners and Pathfinders. That's what I'm finding here in Arizona. If anything, they may be higher here.
The 2004 Rodeo is tempting, but I have some concerns about it. It has the 3.5L "direct injection" engine that got rave reviews (i.e., 250hp/260ft-lbs. of torque and 23 mpg), but it was only made for 1 year and was only sold in a few Rodeos and Axioms. Given that it is a new, complicated, low-production engine, I have concerns about reliability. Even though it is covered by a fairly good warranty, I worry about parts availabilty and the dealers' lack of experience working on that engine.
I may hold on to my '95 for the time being and wait for a "great deal" on something else. There's no sense of urgency; my '95 still runs good. In any case, I don't think I would get much for it as a trade-in. I finally got rid of the dreaded ticking, but it still sounds like a diesel at idle and always will.
Ramblin Fever
10-25-2006, 11:46 PM
Well, the 1yr thing on the 3.5L and Isuzu leaving the country gave me concerns as well, I almost picked up one of those 3.5L's as well. If I could find one for $6-7k though, I'd do it. I don't doubt the 3.5L engine in the slightest, it's the availability of parts I worry about.
I already have trouble finding parts for the '97 Rodeo at times - living in a small town area. But, I'd say a good portion of those bad ratings on some of Isuzu's years/engines, is because owners just flat neglected to check their vital fluids - Isuzu's are not for the faint of heart, you neglect them, they WILL leave you paying big-time.
But, if you take care of them - they'll get you home.
What oil filter are you using? Probably have already read this, but the filter's *can* cause some of these engines to tick.
And, seriously, if you haven't tried it, if your down 'round the Mason-dixen line throw in some 10w-30 Valvoline, either the Durablend or Maxlife. Valvoline seems to be known for quieting these Rodeo's, not always, but seems many have had good luck.
If you live up north, run 5w-30 in the winter.
Otherwise, I've read that the ticking is completely harmless; though, I'll admit it drove me nuts for a good 5-7k miles when mine was *ticking* - though the funny thing is, got quiet about as fast as it came on. Got even quieter when the waterpump, timing belt, and tensioner were replaced.
I already have trouble finding parts for the '97 Rodeo at times - living in a small town area. But, I'd say a good portion of those bad ratings on some of Isuzu's years/engines, is because owners just flat neglected to check their vital fluids - Isuzu's are not for the faint of heart, you neglect them, they WILL leave you paying big-time.
But, if you take care of them - they'll get you home.
What oil filter are you using? Probably have already read this, but the filter's *can* cause some of these engines to tick.
And, seriously, if you haven't tried it, if your down 'round the Mason-dixen line throw in some 10w-30 Valvoline, either the Durablend or Maxlife. Valvoline seems to be known for quieting these Rodeo's, not always, but seems many have had good luck.
If you live up north, run 5w-30 in the winter.
Otherwise, I've read that the ticking is completely harmless; though, I'll admit it drove me nuts for a good 5-7k miles when mine was *ticking* - though the funny thing is, got quiet about as fast as it came on. Got even quieter when the waterpump, timing belt, and tensioner were replaced.
MrMGA
10-26-2006, 08:22 PM
What oil filter are you using? Probably have already read this, but the filter's *can* cause some of these engines to tick.
And, seriously, if you haven't tried it, if your down 'round the Mason-dixen line throw in some 10w-30 Valvoline, either the Durablend or Maxlife. Valvoline seems to be known for quieting these Rodeo's, not always, but seems many have had good luck.
I've read that the ticking is completely harmless;
I started using Genuine Isuzu oil filters purchased from the dealer ever since I followed the Isuzu TSB to stop the ticking. That's the TSB where you put in 0-30W Mobil 1 Synthetic oil and a Genuine Isuzu filter and rev the engine at 2,000 rpm for 30 minutes. It worked for me. For the most part...
The Valvoline is worth a try. I'll keep that in mind. By the way, I live in the Phoenix area and my Rodeo is subjected to stop-and-go city driving in 110+ degree weather for 5 months of the year. That's the with A/C on max 100% of the time. I get 14 mpg under those conditions. (19-20 mpg highway.)
As far as the ticking is concerned, you and I know it's harmless but try telling a potential buyer that! Not to mention the diesel-like noise that remains after you get rid of the ticking...
And, seriously, if you haven't tried it, if your down 'round the Mason-dixen line throw in some 10w-30 Valvoline, either the Durablend or Maxlife. Valvoline seems to be known for quieting these Rodeo's, not always, but seems many have had good luck.
I've read that the ticking is completely harmless;
I started using Genuine Isuzu oil filters purchased from the dealer ever since I followed the Isuzu TSB to stop the ticking. That's the TSB where you put in 0-30W Mobil 1 Synthetic oil and a Genuine Isuzu filter and rev the engine at 2,000 rpm for 30 minutes. It worked for me. For the most part...
The Valvoline is worth a try. I'll keep that in mind. By the way, I live in the Phoenix area and my Rodeo is subjected to stop-and-go city driving in 110+ degree weather for 5 months of the year. That's the with A/C on max 100% of the time. I get 14 mpg under those conditions. (19-20 mpg highway.)
As far as the ticking is concerned, you and I know it's harmless but try telling a potential buyer that! Not to mention the diesel-like noise that remains after you get rid of the ticking...
Ramblin Fever
10-28-2006, 02:35 AM
The diesel like noise that remains after you rid of the ticking??
Not quite sure what you mean here. But, for what it's worth, ANYONE (potential buyers) who is familiar with Isuzu engine's in general know that they ARE naturally noisey engines.
Some people either like this or they fear it; I for one have been around so many Isuzu's that it's the norm for me, and in fact, I like a somewhat different sounding engine. But, then again, I grew up with the sound of a train coming down the track every night at 10pm; and grinding of the 18-wheelers off in the distance.
Has the timing belt and tensioner ever been changed in the time that you've owned it, or are aware of? As these components age, along with the waterpump, they can lead to a noisier engine.
With you living in the desert, I would personally be running something like Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40 in the summer, and for your *winters*, I would be running a 10w-30. Your part of the country doesn't get cold.
Not quite sure what you mean here. But, for what it's worth, ANYONE (potential buyers) who is familiar with Isuzu engine's in general know that they ARE naturally noisey engines.
Some people either like this or they fear it; I for one have been around so many Isuzu's that it's the norm for me, and in fact, I like a somewhat different sounding engine. But, then again, I grew up with the sound of a train coming down the track every night at 10pm; and grinding of the 18-wheelers off in the distance.
Has the timing belt and tensioner ever been changed in the time that you've owned it, or are aware of? As these components age, along with the waterpump, they can lead to a noisier engine.
With you living in the desert, I would personally be running something like Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40 in the summer, and for your *winters*, I would be running a 10w-30. Your part of the country doesn't get cold.
MrMGA
10-28-2006, 04:33 PM
The diesel like noise that remains after you rid of the ticking?? Not quite sure what you mean here.
Has the timing belt and tensioner ever been changed in the time that you've owned it, or are aware of? As these components age, along with the waterpump, they can lead to a noisier engine.
Your part of the country doesn't get cold.
By diesel-like noise, I mean valvetrain chatter at idle only that sort of sounds like an old diesel truck idling. I don't think it has anything to do with the timing belt or tensioner; those were changed at 90K miles (I now have 103K on it) and the noise was the same before and after. I'm not concerned about it. It's only a minor annoyance.
You don't think it gets cold in Phoenix? Three January's ago I had an outside water line burst after it froze up during a 25 degree night. This past winter it snowed in parts of the Phoenix area.
Has the timing belt and tensioner ever been changed in the time that you've owned it, or are aware of? As these components age, along with the waterpump, they can lead to a noisier engine.
Your part of the country doesn't get cold.
By diesel-like noise, I mean valvetrain chatter at idle only that sort of sounds like an old diesel truck idling. I don't think it has anything to do with the timing belt or tensioner; those were changed at 90K miles (I now have 103K on it) and the noise was the same before and after. I'm not concerned about it. It's only a minor annoyance.
You don't think it gets cold in Phoenix? Three January's ago I had an outside water line burst after it froze up during a 25 degree night. This past winter it snowed in parts of the Phoenix area.
Canucklehead
10-28-2006, 05:43 PM
You don't think it gets cold in Phoenix? Three January's ago I had an outside water line burst after it froze up during a 25 degree night. This past winter it snowed in parts of the Phoenix area.That's not cold... that's "chilly".:evillol:
Ramblin Fever
10-28-2006, 06:17 PM
That's not cold... that's "chilly".:evillol:
x2!! :rofl:
Try -20F, and we had 16" of snowfall Thursday.
If the coldest it ever got in the mountains of Colorado was +25F, I'd be running 10w-30 without a doubt.
Yeah, that V6 valve-train clatter at idle is VERY common; heck, even my new '04 Tacoma with only 26k miles has that sound. Every V6 I see, whether it be Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, even some older chevy V6's have that rattle sound - seems to be a trait of V6's in general, at least in my experience.
x2!! :rofl:
Try -20F, and we had 16" of snowfall Thursday.
If the coldest it ever got in the mountains of Colorado was +25F, I'd be running 10w-30 without a doubt.
Yeah, that V6 valve-train clatter at idle is VERY common; heck, even my new '04 Tacoma with only 26k miles has that sound. Every V6 I see, whether it be Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, even some older chevy V6's have that rattle sound - seems to be a trait of V6's in general, at least in my experience.
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