92 Le Saber - blower motor??

Hi

I have read over some of the other posts on this and I need some clarification.

Problem: no heat or defrost - motor not running
Checked the fuses - they look fine. Someone told me it might be the blower motor.

After reading other posts now I am thinking nothing is that simple. What is a HVAC Programmer ( is that a computer part?) and could it be o/s temp sensor and what is this.

Where is this on the car and can it be fixed by someone else other than a mechanic. ie: simple tools

How would i go about determining which part it is? B4 reading these posts i would of just went out and bought a blower motor and stuck it in, but now it could be these other things???

Help - I am a woman who is sick of putting $$$ into this car and sick of paying someone to do it. I used to fix my own cars a long time ago- simple things - could this be done by someone other than a mechanic-ugggg

Thanks

If your blower motor is not running, you should first suspect the blower motor itself. It is easy to test. Simply run a wire directly from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the blower motor (where the purple fat wire would go if the wiring harness were hooked up), and run another wire to the negative side of the blower motor from the negative of the battery (where the fat black wire would go if the wiring harness were hooked up). It is helpful to use jumper wires as they can be clipped to the places you need to hook them to and you won't have to simply try to hold all the wires (nearly impossible with one person without clips anyhow).

I've had a bunch of problems with my HVAC system with an intermittent blower motor. I suspected the HVAC controller and even replaced it. This was because the blower motor would generally work when I tested it. However, the problem ended up being the blower motor itself. It would overheat and eventually shut off, then cool down and start back up. This was a bear to diagnose. Once I put the new blower motor in, it has worked perfect since then.

The "HVAC Programmer" is simply the thing in the dash where you push the buttons to select "heat" or "defrost" etc. The temp sensor is not your problem. A bad temp sensor could not turn your blower motor off.

The blower motor if you don't already know is on the wall between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment on the engine side and is held in place with five small bolts (8mm I think). You simply take a screwdriver or your finger and release the lock on the wiring harness (it has a fat purple and fat black wire in it) and remove it, then remove the five screws and remove the blower motor. It can be tricky to get the blower motor out but it can be done without removing anything else. You simply have to twist it the right way. Keep trying.

Do you have ACC (Automatic Climate Control) with digital display or, the manual controller :confused: If you have ACC, and the fan runs when you jump it out, I would suspect the blower control module. This malfunction is quite common and easy to overcome. Let us know, what system you have and we can give you full details on how to replace it.

BTW: You only need to run a 12V power supply to the positive (purple wire) to test the blower motor. The other side already has a ground! (Black Wire):tongue:

BTW: You only need to run a 12V power supply to the positive (purple wire) to test the blower motor. The other side already has a ground! (Black Wire):tongue:
True, but the original poster sounded like she had not had any experience in fixing cars, therefore would not necessarily know to stick a probe behind the rubber where the purple wire goes into the wire harness connector. Thus my suggestion was assuming she pulled the wire harness connector off. Second, it cannot be assumed that the ground wire running to the blower motor is good, even though it almost certainly is. (I like to eliminate all possibilities for something not working or working when I test so that my conclusions will be more accurate--although in this case running a 12V probe to the purple wire would be accurate enough if the blower motor in fact turns on and runs! But if it didn't you would still need to test the large black wire to see if it was in fact grounded.)