car won't start...no spark!
74NovaNick
10-20-2006, 03:28 AM
Any ideas? I have a long list of things that it ISN'T including:
ignition module
ignition coil
alternator (although my new alt. isn't doing anything to help the batt.....)
Fuses
Fuse block
voltage to distributor
the wiring is a little questionable, but the pos. feed from the bat. to the starter to the alternator is fine...replaced in fact. Any help is gladly welcome thanks.
- Nick
ignition module
ignition coil
alternator (although my new alt. isn't doing anything to help the batt.....)
Fuses
Fuse block
voltage to distributor
the wiring is a little questionable, but the pos. feed from the bat. to the starter to the alternator is fine...replaced in fact. Any help is gladly welcome thanks.
- Nick
silicon212
10-20-2006, 10:49 AM
Any ideas? I have a long list of things that it ISN'T including:
ignition module
ignition coil
alternator (although my new alt. isn't doing anything to help the batt.....)
Fuses
Fuse block
voltage to distributor
the wiring is a little questionable, but the pos. feed from the bat. to the starter to the alternator is fine...replaced in fact. Any help is gladly welcome thanks.
- Nick
I take it that by your username, you drive a '74, correct? Is it HEI or points? If it's points, look at the points for proper dwell and also, check the condensor with an ohmmeter - sometimes these short and will kill the ignition. You don't want to see low ohms on the meter.
If it's an HEI, there could be a module or coil/reluctor assembly (the pickup coil, not the ignition coil) - PROVIDED that you have absolutely ruled out the ignition coil and power. HEI also uses a capacitor on the inside of the distributor that looks like a condensor (which itself is another name for capacitor) - check this per above and replace if it has low ohms (in the 0-10 ohm range).
On a breaker points distributor, you should be getting 10-11 volts to the COIL + terminal, due to the ballast resistor - the wire itself is a ballast resistor on a GM. On an HEI, you should be getting full battery/alternator power to the BAT terminal - the HEI system does not use a ballast resistor.
ignition module
ignition coil
alternator (although my new alt. isn't doing anything to help the batt.....)
Fuses
Fuse block
voltage to distributor
the wiring is a little questionable, but the pos. feed from the bat. to the starter to the alternator is fine...replaced in fact. Any help is gladly welcome thanks.
- Nick
I take it that by your username, you drive a '74, correct? Is it HEI or points? If it's points, look at the points for proper dwell and also, check the condensor with an ohmmeter - sometimes these short and will kill the ignition. You don't want to see low ohms on the meter.
If it's an HEI, there could be a module or coil/reluctor assembly (the pickup coil, not the ignition coil) - PROVIDED that you have absolutely ruled out the ignition coil and power. HEI also uses a capacitor on the inside of the distributor that looks like a condensor (which itself is another name for capacitor) - check this per above and replace if it has low ohms (in the 0-10 ohm range).
On a breaker points distributor, you should be getting 10-11 volts to the COIL + terminal, due to the ballast resistor - the wire itself is a ballast resistor on a GM. On an HEI, you should be getting full battery/alternator power to the BAT terminal - the HEI system does not use a ballast resistor.
71NOVA02
11-05-2006, 10:38 PM
Have to agree with silicon212, the pints seem to be a weak area in the ignition system. My 71's pints went out around once a year till I got MSD. Its a pretty cheap fix, I would just raplace the points, condenser, and whil your at it the cap and rotar as well (if it looks like they need it)
The wiring to my coil was also not getting a good connection which gave me no spark.
-zach
The wiring to my coil was also not getting a good connection which gave me no spark.
-zach
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