New to this Forum
d1nonlyjv43
10-18-2006, 08:16 AM
How is everybody. My name is Jovan and I just bought a 91' Honda CRX...I still own a 96' 4-door Cavalier as well. I'd just thought i'd post a new thread and let yall know ill be in here from time to time like any of you care lol. Anyways once i get a chance I'll post up a pic of the CRX once i put the body kit n paint it which will be in the next 3 weeks hopefully ight. Thanks latta yall.. Also please let me know some stuff about the CRX if i havent read it in the forums already thanks.
thedeadcivic
10-18-2006, 10:09 AM
wooo im not the only newbie now:grinyes:
well... kinda
well... kinda
bambam89lx
10-18-2006, 01:43 PM
How is everybody. My name is Jovan and I just bought a 91' Honda CRX...I still own a 96' 4-door Cavalier as well. I'd just thought i'd post a new thread and let yall know ill be in here from time to time like any of you care lol. Anyways once i get a chance I'll post up a pic of the CRX once i put the body kit n paint it which will be in the next 3 weeks hopefully ight. Thanks latta yall.. Also please let me know some stuff about the CRX if i havent read it in the forums already thanks.
Junk the body kit homey. Don't ruin another crx that way. Please. I know you're going to say you like it and want to be different....blah blah blah. It's been said time and time again. Today's your lucky day. I'll help you out my friend.
Here's a good guide of what NOT to do to your crx:
-no spoilers of any kind
-no aftermarket taillights
-no body kits
-no aftermarket fenders
-no painting interior pieces
-no aftermarket shift knobs, colored floor mats, steering wheel covers, seat covers, etc.
-no wheels larger than 16''
-no ebay springs/coilovers
-don't lower the car more than 2''
-don't go shaving crap off your car
Stick to those rules, and you'll be good.
Actually, here's a few things you could do to your car with that money:
-some nice oem wheels: si's, gsr fat fives, gsr swirlies, del sol si's
-JDM front end
-Si seats
-front lip
-sohc vtec motor
-oem CF hood
-nice suspension
-bseries engine mounts/shift linkage
These are just a few things. I know i'm forgetting alot.
Junk the body kit homey. Don't ruin another crx that way. Please. I know you're going to say you like it and want to be different....blah blah blah. It's been said time and time again. Today's your lucky day. I'll help you out my friend.
Here's a good guide of what NOT to do to your crx:
-no spoilers of any kind
-no aftermarket taillights
-no body kits
-no aftermarket fenders
-no painting interior pieces
-no aftermarket shift knobs, colored floor mats, steering wheel covers, seat covers, etc.
-no wheels larger than 16''
-no ebay springs/coilovers
-don't lower the car more than 2''
-don't go shaving crap off your car
Stick to those rules, and you'll be good.
Actually, here's a few things you could do to your car with that money:
-some nice oem wheels: si's, gsr fat fives, gsr swirlies, del sol si's
-JDM front end
-Si seats
-front lip
-sohc vtec motor
-oem CF hood
-nice suspension
-bseries engine mounts/shift linkage
These are just a few things. I know i'm forgetting alot.
GTA
10-18-2006, 02:15 PM
actually I think if he wants to put a body kit on he should. you should build a car the way you want, not what everyone thinks.
BLU CIVIC
10-18-2006, 02:33 PM
actually I think if he wants to put a body kit on he should. you should build a car the way you want, not what everyone thinks.
ditto...but if you're going to do anything...make sure you do it right the 1st time and not go cheap...and please
[COLOR="Red"]DO A SEARCH BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS
that's all I ask :grinyes:
ditto...but if you're going to do anything...make sure you do it right the 1st time and not go cheap...and please
[COLOR="Red"]DO A SEARCH BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS
that's all I ask :grinyes:
hondacivic99sivtec
10-18-2006, 03:19 PM
i have that in my sig.
bambam89lx
10-18-2006, 03:50 PM
actually I think if he wants to put a body kit on he should. you should build a car the way you want, not what everyone thinks.
yes, but PLEASE save me the tears!
yes, but PLEASE save me the tears!
BLU CIVIC
10-18-2006, 03:52 PM
what's wrong with the ever popular Wings West kit? i personally don't like it though...too many people with it
thefooshmeister
10-18-2006, 04:53 PM
ive got a spoiler on my crx but its jdm style so it doesnt look rediculous. i dont have a crx shift knob in mine i grabbed one from an integra to go with the motor. there are clean styled products and then there are "ricer" products. just do research and see how ppls cars are styled and make your own ideas from them.
i will admit..my windshield wipers are pretty ricey but at least my car has some balls to back it up.
i will admit..my windshield wipers are pretty ricey but at least my car has some balls to back it up.
FuLL BLown STD
10-18-2006, 05:39 PM
Junk the body kit homey. Don't ruin another crx that way. Please. I know you're going to say you like it and want to be different....blah blah blah. It's been said time and time again. Today's your lucky day. I'll help you out my friend.
Here's a good guide of what NOT to do to your crx:
-no spoilers of any kind
-no aftermarket taillights
-no body kits
-no aftermarket fenders
-no painting interior pieces
-no aftermarket shift knobs, colored floor mats, steering wheel covers, seat covers, etc.
-no wheels larger than 16''
-no ebay springs/coilovers
-don't lower the car more than 2''
-don't go shaving crap off your car
Stick to those rules, and you'll be good.
Actually, here's a few things you could do to your car with that money:
-some nice oem wheels: si's, gsr fat fives, gsr swirlies, del sol si's
-JDM front end
-Si seats
-front lip
-sohc vtec motor
-oem CF hood
-nice suspension
-bseries engine mounts/shift linkage
These are just a few things. I know i'm forgetting alot.
im about to make this post my fuckin sig!! well put!
Here's a good guide of what NOT to do to your crx:
-no spoilers of any kind
-no aftermarket taillights
-no body kits
-no aftermarket fenders
-no painting interior pieces
-no aftermarket shift knobs, colored floor mats, steering wheel covers, seat covers, etc.
-no wheels larger than 16''
-no ebay springs/coilovers
-don't lower the car more than 2''
-don't go shaving crap off your car
Stick to those rules, and you'll be good.
Actually, here's a few things you could do to your car with that money:
-some nice oem wheels: si's, gsr fat fives, gsr swirlies, del sol si's
-JDM front end
-Si seats
-front lip
-sohc vtec motor
-oem CF hood
-nice suspension
-bseries engine mounts/shift linkage
These are just a few things. I know i'm forgetting alot.
im about to make this post my fuckin sig!! well put!
Christ
10-18-2006, 07:04 PM
Rice = gay... I agree with building your car the way you want it.. but for the sake of your pride, and the money you spend doing it, don't go retarded on alot of custom shit unless you make sure it matches everything else... like.. if you're painting interior parts, do it right.. there are certain times that painting interior parts helps to match the (if it's stock) blue interior with the black seats, if you know what I mean... sometimes you can't get all the parts exactly how you want them... but you can make them work.. I"ve had to do it before, doesn't look bad if you have a decent sense of "quiet style"
But plz.. for honda's sake.. PLEASE don't go all out with "JDM" parts and then have nothing to back it up... engine wise... that just gets all the other baztids on our asses... makin it worse for new honda owners to have that same sense of pride in our cars as we do.
+2 on the build what you want Idea tho.
pcepce -=X=-
But plz.. for honda's sake.. PLEASE don't go all out with "JDM" parts and then have nothing to back it up... engine wise... that just gets all the other baztids on our asses... makin it worse for new honda owners to have that same sense of pride in our cars as we do.
+2 on the build what you want Idea tho.
pcepce -=X=-
d1nonlyjv43
10-18-2006, 10:01 PM
Thanks for the comments. It's sitting stock engine wise right now with the d15b2 i think it is. Which is a 1.5, even though you prolly already know. Most likeyly i want to change the motor to mayb a b18 or b16 or sumthin close to it or either ill just build the one i have. I was on different sits yesterday and I was about to order a CAI, Grounding kit by apexi, and front and rear strut tower bars, poly urathane bushings. But im not sure what to do yet,Please give me some info on the motor idea....Also what i would need to complete the task if i switch to a different motor.Pics of car will be posted up at car domain in a couple of days i have one i need to scan it cus i dont have my digital camera anymore unless i borrow my friends...Thankss.. lata
Christ
10-18-2006, 10:35 PM
depending on the price, you can get the block you have ground and bored to accept a 1.6 (D series) crank.. so you can put the 1.6 rotating assy in it, and then go with a MPFI and A6 or Z6 head, (Z6 is vtec), or a whole asstmt of other head swaps
the DOHC ZC is a direct bolt on for engine swaps into our cars
B16's are fast
B18 is ok too
There is a thread about B20's on here too, and it's the same as the Bseries swap in general
If you want something that will be running in a weekend, I"d tell you to go ZC tho... twin cams, 130ish HP, and MPFI, you can get about 250 out of the stock internals, from what I've heard, and the stock swap is only about 700 bux (sometimes you get the trans with it) then get a PM6 ECU
the DOHC ZC is a direct bolt on for engine swaps into our cars
B16's are fast
B18 is ok too
There is a thread about B20's on here too, and it's the same as the Bseries swap in general
If you want something that will be running in a weekend, I"d tell you to go ZC tho... twin cams, 130ish HP, and MPFI, you can get about 250 out of the stock internals, from what I've heard, and the stock swap is only about 700 bux (sometimes you get the trans with it) then get a PM6 ECU
bambam89lx
10-18-2006, 11:14 PM
depending on the price, you can get the block you have ground and bored to accept a 1.6 (D series) crank.. so you can put the 1.6 rotating assy in it, and then go with a MPFI and A6 or Z6 head, (Z6 is vtec), or a whole asstmt of other head swaps
the DOHC ZC is a direct bolt on for engine swaps into our cars
B16's are fast
B18 is ok too
There is a thread about B20's on here too, and it's the same as the Bseries swap in general
If you want something that will be running in a weekend, I"d tell you to go ZC tho... twin cams, 130ish HP, and MPFI, you can get about 250 out of the stock internals, from what I've heard, and the stock swap is only about 700 bux (sometimes you get the trans with it) then get a PM6 ECU
There's no grinding or boring required to swap a crank from one dseries to another. Direct swap.
I'd like to hear your definition of "fast". 15.0 in the 1/4 mile is not fast by any means. Yes, the B16 is a great replacement motor. My rex cut's 12.7's in the 1/4 mile, all motor, and I still think it's slow. I'm banking on 11's all motor by next year, and working down to 10's within the next 5 years.
ZC is a good motor if you blew your stock one. That's it. It's tough to get more than 200 whp out of one because of the aftermarket support. Boosting one is playing with fire because of the stock cast pistons, and high compression they yield compared to most stock motors.
Any fresh sohc d motor is a good candidate for some decent daily driven power if you boost it. Multi point is a must though. D16Y7, D16Z6, D15B2/7, D16Y8 or any combination thereof + boost won't upset you. Nothing crazy, but it's at least enough to toy with some lightly modded STi's, EVO's and mustangs.
The only way to make power out of a B16 is to boost it. It's an excellent motor for that. Other than that, don't waste your time. A user on honda-tech.com made a DVD where he extracted 200whp out of one, all-motor. Respectable, but that's about maxing it out.
B20's are trash. No telling how long yours will last. Mine lasted less than a year on lower-than-stock compression before I cracked a sleeve.
You're going to want at least a 1.8 for your EF. LS is good, especially if you toy around with the idea of adding a vtec head to it. A GSR motor would be prime. Even better if you decide to swap the 89mm crank in it.
H22 is a good candidate for a swap as well. Swap parts are much cheaper for the EF now-a-days. They suck for boost, but are great for all motor. There is alot of aftermarket support for them and plenty of people are cutting 10's, 11's, and 12's with this swap, all motor. Now, you can boost it, but be prepared to resleeve it. You'll have to resleeve it to use aftermarket lower-compression pistons. It has to do with the fiber-reinforced sleeves which are also found in the F20C.
My thoughts would be to save your money. Build a 1.8 for boost or allmotor down the road, possibly even an h22.
I'm biased towards all motor though. It's cheaper, and more respectable. Not to mention, more reliable and easier to tune. High compression, big cams, RMF header, 2.5 exhaust.....I just cream my pants every time I hear my car idle.....blub, blub, blub, blub. Enough to scare away even some of the local V-8 guys. They shit their pants when I pop the hood and they don't see a turbo or nitrous valves. The laptop in the passenger seat usually keys them in that something just aint right though....lol.
the DOHC ZC is a direct bolt on for engine swaps into our cars
B16's are fast
B18 is ok too
There is a thread about B20's on here too, and it's the same as the Bseries swap in general
If you want something that will be running in a weekend, I"d tell you to go ZC tho... twin cams, 130ish HP, and MPFI, you can get about 250 out of the stock internals, from what I've heard, and the stock swap is only about 700 bux (sometimes you get the trans with it) then get a PM6 ECU
There's no grinding or boring required to swap a crank from one dseries to another. Direct swap.
I'd like to hear your definition of "fast". 15.0 in the 1/4 mile is not fast by any means. Yes, the B16 is a great replacement motor. My rex cut's 12.7's in the 1/4 mile, all motor, and I still think it's slow. I'm banking on 11's all motor by next year, and working down to 10's within the next 5 years.
ZC is a good motor if you blew your stock one. That's it. It's tough to get more than 200 whp out of one because of the aftermarket support. Boosting one is playing with fire because of the stock cast pistons, and high compression they yield compared to most stock motors.
Any fresh sohc d motor is a good candidate for some decent daily driven power if you boost it. Multi point is a must though. D16Y7, D16Z6, D15B2/7, D16Y8 or any combination thereof + boost won't upset you. Nothing crazy, but it's at least enough to toy with some lightly modded STi's, EVO's and mustangs.
The only way to make power out of a B16 is to boost it. It's an excellent motor for that. Other than that, don't waste your time. A user on honda-tech.com made a DVD where he extracted 200whp out of one, all-motor. Respectable, but that's about maxing it out.
B20's are trash. No telling how long yours will last. Mine lasted less than a year on lower-than-stock compression before I cracked a sleeve.
You're going to want at least a 1.8 for your EF. LS is good, especially if you toy around with the idea of adding a vtec head to it. A GSR motor would be prime. Even better if you decide to swap the 89mm crank in it.
H22 is a good candidate for a swap as well. Swap parts are much cheaper for the EF now-a-days. They suck for boost, but are great for all motor. There is alot of aftermarket support for them and plenty of people are cutting 10's, 11's, and 12's with this swap, all motor. Now, you can boost it, but be prepared to resleeve it. You'll have to resleeve it to use aftermarket lower-compression pistons. It has to do with the fiber-reinforced sleeves which are also found in the F20C.
My thoughts would be to save your money. Build a 1.8 for boost or allmotor down the road, possibly even an h22.
I'm biased towards all motor though. It's cheaper, and more respectable. Not to mention, more reliable and easier to tune. High compression, big cams, RMF header, 2.5 exhaust.....I just cream my pants every time I hear my car idle.....blub, blub, blub, blub. Enough to scare away even some of the local V-8 guys. They shit their pants when I pop the hood and they don't see a turbo or nitrous valves. The laptop in the passenger seat usually keys them in that something just aint right though....lol.
hondacivic99sivtec
10-18-2006, 11:51 PM
gotta love the in car tuning.
Christ
10-19-2006, 04:15 AM
mmk.. as I sit reading your post.. i'm staring at the extracted D15B2 and D16A6 blocks and cranks here.. and i"m telling you right now, that A6 crank just isn't gonna fit... the mains are almost twice the size.
And if that isn't enough, go do some research on the D16A1.. b/c NO D15 crank is gonna fit in there... not even with larger bearings.
Fact is, to use a 1.6 crank, you can't use 1.5 pistons, etc. The wrist pins are larger, you need the 1.6 rods, and that means you need the 1.6 crank. you have to align bore the block for the crank swap.. or didn't you notice he said it was a D15B2?
well, I take that back.. you CAN use D15 pistons with a 1.6 crank... you need 1.6 rods and some wrist pin bushings tho.. never done it myself, and wouldn't recommend it either.. just doesn't seem safe to me.
As far as the B series engines, I'm stating that info from what I've read on here, and what I've been told by the local "tuning" shop.. yeah.. the guys that think you can put a K24 in my 85 CRX if you try really hard, and they're telling me I can do it w/o welding or beating on stuff.. I'm wondering if they have a bolt in kit to put it in the back, or they've spent too much time smoking crack in customer's cars.. but I digress.
I'd honestly never touch a B series engine, unless my car came with one.. I don't really agree with cutting and welding on my car to make the engine fit. I'm a fan of doing things the way they were intended to be.
As far as the ZC swap being useless... well, that's a matter of opinion.. I know there is a 300 HP version of it running up in the city, pulling daily "to work and back" runs, and still netting close to 12 second times on slicks in a CRX with a full interior and 2 12" subs in the back.
It's actually the next engine that goes in my CRX, when I get my license back, and it's getting boosted on lower compression internals, i.e. A6 pistons (not sure of the part number) etc. I don't have the parts list sitting right next to me. although I only plan on using 8 psi max, 12 at the track, if it ever goes there.
so pfft :P
And if that isn't enough, go do some research on the D16A1.. b/c NO D15 crank is gonna fit in there... not even with larger bearings.
Fact is, to use a 1.6 crank, you can't use 1.5 pistons, etc. The wrist pins are larger, you need the 1.6 rods, and that means you need the 1.6 crank. you have to align bore the block for the crank swap.. or didn't you notice he said it was a D15B2?
well, I take that back.. you CAN use D15 pistons with a 1.6 crank... you need 1.6 rods and some wrist pin bushings tho.. never done it myself, and wouldn't recommend it either.. just doesn't seem safe to me.
As far as the B series engines, I'm stating that info from what I've read on here, and what I've been told by the local "tuning" shop.. yeah.. the guys that think you can put a K24 in my 85 CRX if you try really hard, and they're telling me I can do it w/o welding or beating on stuff.. I'm wondering if they have a bolt in kit to put it in the back, or they've spent too much time smoking crack in customer's cars.. but I digress.
I'd honestly never touch a B series engine, unless my car came with one.. I don't really agree with cutting and welding on my car to make the engine fit. I'm a fan of doing things the way they were intended to be.
As far as the ZC swap being useless... well, that's a matter of opinion.. I know there is a 300 HP version of it running up in the city, pulling daily "to work and back" runs, and still netting close to 12 second times on slicks in a CRX with a full interior and 2 12" subs in the back.
It's actually the next engine that goes in my CRX, when I get my license back, and it's getting boosted on lower compression internals, i.e. A6 pistons (not sure of the part number) etc. I don't have the parts list sitting right next to me. although I only plan on using 8 psi max, 12 at the track, if it ever goes there.
so pfft :P
bambam89lx
10-19-2006, 04:46 AM
mmk.. as I sit reading your post.. i'm staring at the extracted D15B2 and D16A6 blocks and cranks here.. and i"m telling you right now, that A6 crank just isn't gonna fit... the mains are almost twice the size.
And if that isn't enough, go do some research on the D16A1.. b/c NO D15 crank is gonna fit in there... not even with larger bearings.
Fact is, to use a 1.6 crank, you can't use 1.5 pistons, etc. The wrist pins are larger, you need the 1.6 rods, and that means you need the 1.6 crank. you have to align bore the block for the crank swap.. or didn't you notice he said it was a D15B2?
well, I take that back.. you CAN use D15 pistons with a 1.6 crank... you need 1.6 rods and some wrist pin bushings tho.. never done it myself, and wouldn't recommend it either.. just doesn't seem safe to me.
As far as the B series engines, I'm stating that info from what I've read on here, and what I've been told by the local "tuning" shop.. yeah.. the guys that think you can put a K24 in my 85 CRX if you try really hard, and they're telling me I can do it w/o welding or beating on stuff.. I'm wondering if they have a bolt in kit to put it in the back, or they've spent too much time smoking crack in customer's cars.. but I digress.
I'd honestly never touch a B series engine, unless my car came with one.. I don't really agree with cutting and welding on my car to make the engine fit. I'm a fan of doing things the way they were intended to be.
As far as the ZC swap being useless... well, that's a matter of opinion.. I know there is a 300 HP version of it running up in the city, pulling daily "to work and back" runs, and still netting close to 12 second times on slicks in a CRX with a full interior and 2 12" subs in the back.
It's actually the next engine that goes in my CRX, when I get my license back, and it's getting boosted on lower compression internals, i.e. A6 pistons (not sure of the part number) etc. I don't have the parts list sitting right next to me. although I only plan on using 8 psi max, 12 at the track, if it ever goes there.
so pfft :P
The D16a1/a8/a9/dohc ZC don't really fit in the "Dseries" family. They really should be labeled their own family. I agree, that crap wont swap over to your more widely known sohc dseries motors.
I just went out into my garage and measured the mains as you mentioned. With a quick measurement, the D15b7 I measured has roughly 45mm main journals, whereas the D16a6 has 55mm main journals. So, I do apologize, I was incorrect. I thought I was 100% correct, and I will not post unless I feel that way. So, I was wrong. Rare as it may be...lol.
As far as the K goes in a pre-88 crx, you probably have a better chance marrying ashton kutcher in the state of Texas, legally.
I've seen a few B's stuffed in there...and they fucking rip in that weight-of-a-ruffle-chip crx you got there.
Yikes...only 12's on slicks? I net that on street tires w/ sub 200 whp. Not to mention I'm heavier. I'd be willing to bet he spent twice as much as I did as well. I've PERSONALLY seen a turbo b16 crx wrap 10's in the quarter w/ 350 whp. Crazy I know.
I just dislike the venerable ZC....it's cast pistons are garbage for boost or squeeze. It's rivet-sized rod bolts are about as predictable as a fart-in-the-wind. Any local ZC i've seen boosted has met it's maker in the same way. I wouldn't recommend it. But, to each his own I guess.
I'd like you to go point out a ZC on boost, juice or whatever running 10's. None exist that I'm aware of. You may use that as motivation, but I know for a fact, that I can run that allmotor lsvtec with 260 whp. Been done time and time again. I just don't understand why you'd spend the money boosting one when so much more can be done for so much less. Originality? Uggghhhhh I'm tired of hearing that.
And if that isn't enough, go do some research on the D16A1.. b/c NO D15 crank is gonna fit in there... not even with larger bearings.
Fact is, to use a 1.6 crank, you can't use 1.5 pistons, etc. The wrist pins are larger, you need the 1.6 rods, and that means you need the 1.6 crank. you have to align bore the block for the crank swap.. or didn't you notice he said it was a D15B2?
well, I take that back.. you CAN use D15 pistons with a 1.6 crank... you need 1.6 rods and some wrist pin bushings tho.. never done it myself, and wouldn't recommend it either.. just doesn't seem safe to me.
As far as the B series engines, I'm stating that info from what I've read on here, and what I've been told by the local "tuning" shop.. yeah.. the guys that think you can put a K24 in my 85 CRX if you try really hard, and they're telling me I can do it w/o welding or beating on stuff.. I'm wondering if they have a bolt in kit to put it in the back, or they've spent too much time smoking crack in customer's cars.. but I digress.
I'd honestly never touch a B series engine, unless my car came with one.. I don't really agree with cutting and welding on my car to make the engine fit. I'm a fan of doing things the way they were intended to be.
As far as the ZC swap being useless... well, that's a matter of opinion.. I know there is a 300 HP version of it running up in the city, pulling daily "to work and back" runs, and still netting close to 12 second times on slicks in a CRX with a full interior and 2 12" subs in the back.
It's actually the next engine that goes in my CRX, when I get my license back, and it's getting boosted on lower compression internals, i.e. A6 pistons (not sure of the part number) etc. I don't have the parts list sitting right next to me. although I only plan on using 8 psi max, 12 at the track, if it ever goes there.
so pfft :P
The D16a1/a8/a9/dohc ZC don't really fit in the "Dseries" family. They really should be labeled their own family. I agree, that crap wont swap over to your more widely known sohc dseries motors.
I just went out into my garage and measured the mains as you mentioned. With a quick measurement, the D15b7 I measured has roughly 45mm main journals, whereas the D16a6 has 55mm main journals. So, I do apologize, I was incorrect. I thought I was 100% correct, and I will not post unless I feel that way. So, I was wrong. Rare as it may be...lol.
As far as the K goes in a pre-88 crx, you probably have a better chance marrying ashton kutcher in the state of Texas, legally.
I've seen a few B's stuffed in there...and they fucking rip in that weight-of-a-ruffle-chip crx you got there.
Yikes...only 12's on slicks? I net that on street tires w/ sub 200 whp. Not to mention I'm heavier. I'd be willing to bet he spent twice as much as I did as well. I've PERSONALLY seen a turbo b16 crx wrap 10's in the quarter w/ 350 whp. Crazy I know.
I just dislike the venerable ZC....it's cast pistons are garbage for boost or squeeze. It's rivet-sized rod bolts are about as predictable as a fart-in-the-wind. Any local ZC i've seen boosted has met it's maker in the same way. I wouldn't recommend it. But, to each his own I guess.
I'd like you to go point out a ZC on boost, juice or whatever running 10's. None exist that I'm aware of. You may use that as motivation, but I know for a fact, that I can run that allmotor lsvtec with 260 whp. Been done time and time again. I just don't understand why you'd spend the money boosting one when so much more can be done for so much less. Originality? Uggghhhhh I'm tired of hearing that.
thefooshmeister
10-19-2006, 08:40 AM
wtf bambam was wrong..what is the world coming to?? :headshake
im lovin my b series in the crx but it wont really shine till its gets turbo'd , im workin with a sohc vtec build in my hatch and thats consuming most of my time lately. just ordered new main and rod bearings, then pickin up the z6 head in a few days.
im lovin my b series in the crx but it wont really shine till its gets turbo'd , im workin with a sohc vtec build in my hatch and thats consuming most of my time lately. just ordered new main and rod bearings, then pickin up the z6 head in a few days.
BLU CIVIC
10-19-2006, 08:49 AM
i still want to do a H22 swap...still haven't gotten a civic yet...i'm now finding a lot of cheap crx's (under $500) but i want a hatch...thinking about buy parts and whatnot before i get the car...but i know that's a bad idea
hondacivic99sivtec
10-19-2006, 01:51 PM
i got a friend with a hatch for sale. it's in good condition. it's an ef, and it's blue, got the original engine. it just needs a new fuel pump and you could drive it away. he wants 800 for it.
BLU CIVIC
10-19-2006, 02:25 PM
what state? i'll only go to SC or VA or if it's in NC that's even better
bambam89lx
10-19-2006, 03:39 PM
wtf bambam was wrong..what is the world coming to?? :headshake
im lovin my b series in the crx but it wont really shine till its gets turbo'd , im workin with a sohc vtec build in my hatch and thats consuming most of my time lately. just ordered new main and rod bearings, then pickin up the z6 head in a few days.
Lol...it happens. I can admit when I'm wrong though. I thought I was right...but I had to go double check by hand and BOOM....I was wrong. I know, i'm disappointed with myself. Honestly, I'm glad i was corrected though, because I'd hate for someone to go and think they can swap cranks and get fucked in the process.
im lovin my b series in the crx but it wont really shine till its gets turbo'd , im workin with a sohc vtec build in my hatch and thats consuming most of my time lately. just ordered new main and rod bearings, then pickin up the z6 head in a few days.
Lol...it happens. I can admit when I'm wrong though. I thought I was right...but I had to go double check by hand and BOOM....I was wrong. I know, i'm disappointed with myself. Honestly, I'm glad i was corrected though, because I'd hate for someone to go and think they can swap cranks and get fucked in the process.
Christ
10-19-2006, 08:37 PM
eh, no big bambam, actually, honestly, WE got fucked in the process.. remember the "tuner" shop I posted about? THEY told us it would work.. hence the reason I have 10 honda engines in parts in the garage lol
Do have a Q tho... anyone know if i could get a D series block align bored to accept say, a B16 crank? or is it just altogether not right as far as distance between the mains?
I've done more looking at the ZC and teg motors from back in the day and noted that I have pencils for rods in that engine, and that dude in the city is nuts... so I wanna see if I can make a hybrid engine that I can just bolt into the car... alas, I'm too lazy to actually mike out the measurements :P w
was just wondering if anyone on here had them?
I'm also going to the parts store in a few days to get some head gaskets for a hunch I have... I'll explain more about that later tho.
Do have a Q tho... anyone know if i could get a D series block align bored to accept say, a B16 crank? or is it just altogether not right as far as distance between the mains?
I've done more looking at the ZC and teg motors from back in the day and noted that I have pencils for rods in that engine, and that dude in the city is nuts... so I wanna see if I can make a hybrid engine that I can just bolt into the car... alas, I'm too lazy to actually mike out the measurements :P w
was just wondering if anyone on here had them?
I'm also going to the parts store in a few days to get some head gaskets for a hunch I have... I'll explain more about that later tho.
d1nonlyjv43
10-23-2006, 10:48 PM
Ight fellow crx drivers. I will be posting pics of the crx tomorrow hopefully when i get off work. The camera isnt that great but i mean what can u expect for 30 bucks. Anyways hopefully pics will be up tomorrow on here or either car domain were my other ones are.Heres a link to my car on car domain.... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2213478 - dats the link to the cavalier, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/625769- dats the link to the eagle talon i had befor the cavalier. Well see yall tomorrow ..Thankssssssssssss
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
