How to get the brake booster out?

Hello. I've been working on my T, and I need to replace my booster. However, after getting under the dash, I realize that I can easily reach two bolts, but the others are barely visible beyond the steering column. How do I get at these bolts?

Do I just cuss and drink beer and get at it the best I can?

Or Do I need to start removing stuff that is in the way like the steering column?

Suggestions please! I'm trying to get this done before class tommorow, but I doubt thats going to happen at the rate I'm going at :(

First, why are you replacing the brake booster :confused: Did the power assist fail, or was it because of the leaking master cylinder :confused:
You may be wasting your time and money replacing the booster! :crying:

The Buick external master cylinder leak is quite common, due to the rubber gaskets leaking under the plastic reservoir. The master cylinder is mounted at an angle and when leaks develop, fluid will run to the bottom of the master cylinder, then back to the booster, & down the outside of the booster. This would make it appear that the booster has fluid running out of it. It would be very rare if fluid actually did find its way into the booster. Even if it did, it should not cause immediate damage.:shakehead

Yeah, the MC has been leaking into the booster. Its been doing this for what appears to be quite some time now as the paint on the booster has been eaten away by the brake fluid, and the metal underneath has plenty of rust.

I figured if I'm going to keep this car indefinately, I might as well get all the work done at once while I've got it apart. It needed new brake lines as well so I've been replacing those today (not fun) and will hopefully get this little project done tommorow after I get off school and work.

I wish you the best and “may the power of the universe, be with you”!
Be careful, I heard that “Gremlins” are offended by foul language and may consume your beer if you leave it unattended.

That is all you need, a“pissed-off intoxicated gremlin”:shakehead
to spoil your project.:rofl:

"May the power of the universe be with you"

That doesn't sound good...

Anyway, I just now got all the rubber brake lines replaced and that is something I NEVER want to do again, unless the car has ZERO rust and road grime. Yuck. I stripped a couple of the fittings and had to resort to vise grips on them. And I need a new proportioning valve since one I started pulling off kinda wouldn't come off....yeah....I like my Sawzall. Oh well, it was full of black gunk and needed to be replaced anyway. And as a bonus I got some frustrations out.

Next: The Booster. I've got it disconnected from the pedal and thats about it thus far. I think I need to break out my extensions...yuck.

EDIT:

Nevermind....upon further inspection and consultation with a couple slightly inebriated gremlins, I have concluded that I am retarded. I managed to get one bolt off the booster before deciding that I really ought to pull the MC off just to be sure (which I really really should have done about a week ago). So I pull it off and there was no seepage into the booster. However, after I got it off, I could see into the cylander much better. Oh. My. God. There was just massive amounts of black, grimy, slimy, gritty, nasty gunk in the cylander. I further dismantled my cut apart proportioning valve and found what appears to be small rocks. Kinda looks like somebody randomly dumped a handful of dirt into the MC. Ewwww....

So, I think my really bad brakes were a result of three factors:

A: My old, nasty and cracked brake lines. They would expand slightly when pressurized?
B: The gunk in the proportioning vavles was restricging the flow of pressurized fluid to the rear wheel cylanders, further resulting in poor brakes.
3: The uber-nasty amounts of crap inside the master cylander. Just...ewww....

One question though: Should I get new proportioing valves (and how much do they cost?) or should I just get a set from the junkyard and thouroughly clean them?