Engine dies

95 neon drivn' me nuts. I swapped engines (old locked up after brother ran it with no oil), so I searched for used 95 engine in the junk yard. Got it in and got it running for a week. Now, I start it and it dies. sounds like it turns over, but it croaks quick. I take out the key and put it back in and it will start, then die again after I try to drive it a block. The only engine code I am getting is 55. Help!!! :rofl:

On my '98 neon it was the crankshaft potiion sensor that did tis to me. Cold engine, she starts right up and after warming up a bit she died. I could not get a code with a cold engine, only after she was hot and then doing the coding right now.

Yes, I noticed that after I warmed her up she gave me a code "12" meaning I disconnected and connected the battery. I am dumbfounded and will look at the sensor. I also am curious if there is some kind of problem with the altenator and reverse current and the ignition coil electrical connector????

If you haven't done this, with engine off check voltage at battery with volt meter, should read at 12.1 (battery voltage), then start car and do same test and you should see around 14.1(alternator voltage), if the alternator is not at at least 13.5 you have an issue with the alternator. How about the serpentine belt, is it good and tight?

I just wanted to throw my .02 in here since I have been helping out with this as well. Zeph is my younger uglier brother :icon16:.

I wanted to make sure it is known that when the car dies and you try to restart it, the engine will crank but it sounds like there is no spark. It's getting fuel because you can smell it. The ONLY way to get it to start is to pull out the key and reinsert it in the ignition. Then it starts right up.

Zeph, we could swap sensors off the other motor for testing purposes. Get your manual out and locate the ones mentioned. You can get my multimeter when we meet up at the car show to test the battery.
MARK

Probably should also mention other things we have already done:
Changed the fuel rail and injectors
Installed new battery
Checked for Vacuum leaks

If you are having issues with starting and the key must be removed and reinserted be careful, as the next problem will be the key will go in and not turn. I had this happen to my '98 and I ended up taking the lock cyliner out, buying a new cylinder and having it rekeyed. At one point the key would not turn and to get the cylinder out the key must turn to the on position so I had to pull the cover around the steering wheel and then take a small hammer and tap tap the lock cylineder while trying to turn the key. Eventually I got the key to turn to the on poosition, then pushed in the little gray metal piece that sticks out from the bottom of the lock cylinfer while I pulled on the key and the cyliner came out.

95's are also notorious for fuel pump failures. When they overheat the engine will die. Have you checked for fuel pressure at the rail? Should be about 49psi.

Thanks for all the posts. I will dig in and see what comes of it. Zeph

Yes!!! I think that's it...the fuel pump keeps cutting out after my neon heats up. I am curious, however, to how a fuel pump overheats???? What could cause this??? I am tight on cash and have checked ebay and found that there fuel pumps are not selling for cheap and I might as well go for Adance Auto for their sum of $108.00 price tag. Zeph

Or we can go junk yarding again... I have a spare filter if you want to try that.

Does anyone on this forum have a spare pump?

The only problem I have with the junkyard pumps is that they have been sitting in the junkyard and could possibly die out as well. Zeph

I know someone selling a brand new OEM Walbro pump for about $65. LMK if you are interested.

sitting in the junkyard and could possibly die out as well. Zeph

I was only thinking of getting a cheapy one to further test and diagnose. We really need is to get a pressure gauge for both our cars.:rolleyes: You should look in to das2123's fuel pump as well.

MARK

DRUM ROLE PLEASE. We thought is was the fuel pump because fuel pumps are fickle, but it was the dirty EGR membrain. I started vacuum and back pressures (with my finger) and by golly the conditions were met where the PCM started its on-oard diagnostic check and sure enough, it tried to disable the dirty EGR. Since it was clogged and dirty, the EGR would stay open or active. I pulled the blasted thing off and cracked it open (carefully) and cleaned it with some wd-40, slapped it on (carefully not to tear membrain) and it started up, and ran, and I am happily drivn' my Neon again. Please let the world know not to spend money on anything until the EGR is checked and cleaned. Zeph

Hey, where's my credit? Your supposed to say the big bro did all the brain work. You just did all the hard labor!

No doubt bro. I did alot of hard work, but yes, thanks for pointing me toward the right direction.

no doubt bro-:naughty: