My heat problems continue

I got one issue resolved in my 99 Taurus as far as the heat is concerned thanks to everyone's input. I replaced the blend door actuator and now I have some heat.

The problem is the heat is only really good if I keep the car going. If I stop at a light or slow down in traffic the air turns cooler. Not completely cold but not cool. If I leave the fan on the lowest setting it tends to stay fairly warm but not hot.

What am I left with? Water pump? I have a new thermostat in there (did this same thing before the new thermostat). I also have a new coolant reservoir and cap for that.

Sounds to me like you are right with the water pump. Bet the impellers are worn off and will not flow enough coolant at idle.

Is there a way to test the water pump?

There is no reliable way without a lot of sophiscated equipment. Looking in the radiator or reservoir only tells you if the coolant is moving, not the rate of flow.

I don't recall reading what engine you have, but if you have the 12v Vulcan, they tend to wear out the impellers on the water pump.

Looks like the pump is only about $40 from Checker so I'm not out much if that really isn't the problem. With all of the overheating I had last year though, it probably needs repaced anyway.

Could you post a link to your previous thread regarding your first heating issue? Ive got a '99 with a similar problem. Apparently this is a common problem with these models. With ours we have not only replaced the thermostat, but found that the coolant temp sensor and 2 fan relays were(still are) keeping the fans on. I was wondering how you were able to deduce that it was the blend door actuator and how you replaced it. Thanks in advance.
Steve

Could you post a link to your previous thread regarding your first heating issue? Ive got a '99 with a similar problem. Apparently this is a common problem with these models. With ours we have not only replaced the thermostat, but found that the coolant temp sensor and 2 fan relays were(still are) keeping the fans on. I was wondering how you were able to deduce that it was the blend door actuator and how you replaced it. Thanks in advance.
Steve

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=621562
I knew it was the blend door actuator because I could here the thumping of the door everytime I turned the dial over to heat. I crawled around under the dash unplugging things one at a time until I found one that made the thumping stop. That's how I knew.

I took the car by my dad's mechanic this afternoon to get his opinion. He doesn't think it is the water pump. I had no heat this morning when I went to work. I had great heat headed from work to the mechanics. It was 20 degree warmer outside this afternoon.

He noticed that the hose from the water pump to the heater core is cool, but the core to thermostat was hot. Not sure why that was significant. Does the water flow from pump to core or from thermostat to core?

I have a bypass hose that runs between the in/out hoses for the heater core. He suggested removing the bypass and putting in some straight pipe.

He said Ford told him there were two hoses with the same part number, one with the T's for the bypass and one without. Can anyone confirm this?

Any opinions on this new info? He will only charge me $100 to change the water pump, so I'll let him do it if it ends up needing it.

I am having the same issue with mine and found the hoses just like you described. I was considering cutting them and making the straight connections before I saw your posts.

Seems like a strange way to connect the hoses. I would think the water/coolant would flow the path of least resistance. Or is this to keep the heater cooler inside the vehicle.

I am having the same issue with mine and found the hoses just like you described. I was considering cutting them and making the straight connections before I saw your posts.

Seems like a strange way to connect the hoses. I would think the water/coolant would flow the path of least resistance. Or is this to keep the heater cooler inside the vehicle.

I stopped by checker and they only show one hose for that car, the one with the bypass. I'm headed to the Ford dealer tomorrow to see if they show a different option or possible an update.

Well, I was doing some more reading on this car.

I decided the heck with it and put a water pump on. The blades on the old pump were flat, like I read in another thread. I put the pump on, added the coolant, warmed the car up and BAMMO. Heater works like it should.

I'm going to wait until tomorrow to drive it around but I'm sure the other coolant problem I had will be resolved.

Now to figure out that darn P0411 code.

Well, I was doing some more reading on this car.

I decided the heck with it and put a water pump on. The blades on the old pump were flat, like I read in another thread. I put the pump on, added the coolant, warmed the car up and BAMMO. Heater works like it should.

I'm going to wait until tomorrow to drive it around but I'm sure the other coolant problem I had will be resolved.

Now to figure out that darn P0411 code.

How long did that take you? I might have to try doing that as well. It looks a little more difficult than my 77 Chevy 350.

How long did that take you? I might have to try doing that as well. It looks a little more difficult than my 77 Chevy 350.

It didn't take long really, about 2.5 hours I believe. I had to keep stopping to chat with the wife.

I didn't have to take off the powersteering pump so that saved time also. I did unbolt the alt and sit it ontop the valve cover. There were three bolts I had to use a wrench on because I couldn't get the ratchet head in place to use. You do have to remove the belt tensioner wheel to get the pump off.

I got all the bolts loose but that pulley was in the way of taking it out. So I just took it off. So pull out your 8, 13 and 15 sockets and wrenchs and yank it out. :smokin:

I am having the same issue with my 99 sable, I did order new lines that go in and out of the heater core and when I picked them up they do not have the bypass T in them, is this going to cause an issue. If my heater core is plugged I don't want to damage it.

How much work is it to replace the pump, I would like to take it off just to see if the fins are there.

After I read on here about some of the issues and fixes for the heat problem I started looking at the probability my problem was the water pump. When I started the car when it was cold and started feeling the hoses as it warmed up I pretty much new it was the pump.

I felt the hoses get warmer as the engine warmed up. But it wasn't across the hose but it was radiating from the engine. The longer the engine ran the hoses were getting warmer away from the engine, not all at once but like it was slowing moving from the block.

Finally, I allowed the engine to cool down, but not get cold. I then removed a hose that I knew teh water should be flowing from when the engine is running. I started the engine with the hose disconnected. After the engine ran for about three minutes with no water coming from the hose I knew it had to be the water pump.

How much work is it to replace the pump, I would like to take it off just to see if the fins are there.

I'm not sure about your Sable but the water pump on the Taurus was a pain. There are 13 bolts total holding the pump on. But, it is so close to the wheel well that it was tough to get a ratchet on some of the bolts.

As long as I've been working on cars I have never seen a water pump vain wear flat like this.

That was a project I'd rather not do again. Took me about 3 hours to get the water pump out and the new one back in. Old one was in pretty bad shape. The ends of most of the propellers were broken off. The rest was really worn down. Makes me wonder where the pieces ended up. Took quite a bit of creativity and interesting contortionism to get to some of those bolts. I also flushed the heater core. It spewed really nasty brown water and some chunks for 5 minutes before flowing clean.

Doesn't look like there are any leaks from the new water pump either. I'll have to watch it over the next week. Tomorrow is supposed to be cold again so I'll find out if the problem is solved. I'm about out of things to replace at this point.

That was a project I'd rather not do again. Took me about 3 hours to get the water pump out and the new one back in.

Look at it like this... It's done.

It was a pain to do but not as bad as some I have done before. Of course not as easy as a Chevy 350 on a 71 pickup. :icon16:

I'm at the point I'm thinking of just taking it to a shop and let them work on that darn comp code. I'm out of hair to pull. :banghead: