2002 Grand Am starting stalling problems
sloanbarry
10-16-2006, 09:37 PM
I have read many posts on the subject of the pass lock system and ignition system problems. My car first starting cranking regular speed, but not starting in December. Fuel pump is buzzing upon starting. The passlock was replaced. The car was fine until about May when it started turning over slowly. The battery was replaced and it was fine for about another 1-2 months and starting the same cranking, but not firing again. Turning over at regular speed still. The pass lock was replaced again and as usual it was fine for about another month and they replaced the body control module. I will also mention that this is an intermittent problem and nothing ever reads on the computer when it's in the shop. The spark plugs have not been checked either. My dashboard security light does not come on. There is a blinking security light in the radio area that blinks constantly even when the door is unlocked (don't know if this means anything or not. Now it is starting another little problem. Driving at about 45 mph it just decided to shut off. It didn't chug or sputter, it just quit. I didn't even feel it shut off. All dashboard lights lit, but it restarted fine. 20 minutes later, I saw the rpm tach drop to 0 and a red light came on for just a blink of an eye (not sure which light, either the batter or oil pan light). It never stalled and continued running fine at that point. And last but not least, when started today, it idled a little rough, when put into reverse it stalled and the batter light, oil pan light and check engine light came on. It restarted fine and drove home okay. Help??? getting frustrated with just replacing parts and never getting it fixed. It is a 4 cylinder engine. and I don't have a remote to unlock the doors, just a key.
GTP Dad
10-17-2006, 04:41 PM
Try replacing the crank position sensor. Based on your description it may be going bad and you have been throwing the wrong parts at the problem. Also check the fuel pressure, cam position sensor and the ignition module. But start with the CPS. If it is a 2.4 it is located just above the oil filter in the front of the engine.
scaldwellk
10-23-2006, 05:43 PM
My wifes car has this same problem, but it is the 3400 engine. No codes and it shuts off going down the road. She leaves it set for a little bit and it will then restart. Sometimes she even looses power as if the engine is fighting to stay running and then will just return to normal. Could this be a crank or cam sensor on hers? If it is where is it located on the engine?
I have read many posts on the subject of the pass lock system and ignition system problems. My car first starting cranking regular speed, but not starting in December. Fuel pump is buzzing upon starting. The passlock was replaced. The car was fine until about May when it started turning over slowly. The battery was replaced and it was fine for about another 1-2 months and starting the same cranking, but not firing again. Turning over at regular speed still. The pass lock was replaced again and as usual it was fine for about another month and they replaced the body control module. I will also mention that this is an intermittent problem and nothing ever reads on the computer when it's in the shop. The spark plugs have not been checked either. My dashboard security light does not come on. There is a blinking security light in the radio area that blinks constantly even when the door is unlocked (don't know if this means anything or not. Now it is starting another little problem. Driving at about 45 mph it just decided to shut off. It didn't chug or sputter, it just quit. I didn't even feel it shut off. All dashboard lights lit, but it restarted fine. 20 minutes later, I saw the rpm tach drop to 0 and a red light came on for just a blink of an eye (not sure which light, either the batter or oil pan light). It never stalled and continued running fine at that point. And last but not least, when started today, it idled a little rough, when put into reverse it stalled and the batter light, oil pan light and check engine light came on. It restarted fine and drove home okay. Help??? getting frustrated with just replacing parts and never getting it fixed. It is a 4 cylinder engine. and I don't have a remote to unlock the doors, just a key.
I have read many posts on the subject of the pass lock system and ignition system problems. My car first starting cranking regular speed, but not starting in December. Fuel pump is buzzing upon starting. The passlock was replaced. The car was fine until about May when it started turning over slowly. The battery was replaced and it was fine for about another 1-2 months and starting the same cranking, but not firing again. Turning over at regular speed still. The pass lock was replaced again and as usual it was fine for about another month and they replaced the body control module. I will also mention that this is an intermittent problem and nothing ever reads on the computer when it's in the shop. The spark plugs have not been checked either. My dashboard security light does not come on. There is a blinking security light in the radio area that blinks constantly even when the door is unlocked (don't know if this means anything or not. Now it is starting another little problem. Driving at about 45 mph it just decided to shut off. It didn't chug or sputter, it just quit. I didn't even feel it shut off. All dashboard lights lit, but it restarted fine. 20 minutes later, I saw the rpm tach drop to 0 and a red light came on for just a blink of an eye (not sure which light, either the batter or oil pan light). It never stalled and continued running fine at that point. And last but not least, when started today, it idled a little rough, when put into reverse it stalled and the batter light, oil pan light and check engine light came on. It restarted fine and drove home okay. Help??? getting frustrated with just replacing parts and never getting it fixed. It is a 4 cylinder engine. and I don't have a remote to unlock the doors, just a key.
xeroinfinity
10-23-2006, 07:47 PM
The V6 has 2 CPS's.
One is on the firewall side of the engine the 7X,
and the other is on the front of the motor behind the crank pully 24X.
Check the wiring for break or loose plugs.
To check the 7X CPS disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor.
Connect a volt meter to the two terminals of the sensor and set it to read AC volts.
It is easier to test this from the ignition control modules connectors, test the purple and yello terminals.
Crank the engine it should read at least 200 millivolts when cranking. If thiers not a signal replace the sensor.
On the 24x for operation backprobe the blu/black wire at the 24xCPS. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the probe and the negative to a engine ground. Trun on the key and it should read aprox 10.0volts.
Now Rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft center bolt. Watching the volt meter it should fluctuate between 10 volts and 0 vlts. If not the sensors bad.
The 24x conector is the place to test the plug like this.
Its located by the right lower radiator hose. three wire plug.
__
[1] [2] [3]
1 12volt suply
2 sensor signal
3 sensor ground
One is on the firewall side of the engine the 7X,
and the other is on the front of the motor behind the crank pully 24X.
Check the wiring for break or loose plugs.
To check the 7X CPS disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor.
Connect a volt meter to the two terminals of the sensor and set it to read AC volts.
It is easier to test this from the ignition control modules connectors, test the purple and yello terminals.
Crank the engine it should read at least 200 millivolts when cranking. If thiers not a signal replace the sensor.
On the 24x for operation backprobe the blu/black wire at the 24xCPS. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the probe and the negative to a engine ground. Trun on the key and it should read aprox 10.0volts.
Now Rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft center bolt. Watching the volt meter it should fluctuate between 10 volts and 0 vlts. If not the sensors bad.
The 24x conector is the place to test the plug like this.
Its located by the right lower radiator hose. three wire plug.
__
[1] [2] [3]
1 12volt suply
2 sensor signal
3 sensor ground
xeroinfinity
10-23-2006, 07:48 PM
Oh ya the 4cyl has the 7x and can be tested the same way.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
