Eighty Eight Dies often

My Oldsmo(97 yr, Delta 88 LS) often dies while driving at low speed (below 35 mph), especially turning left, stopping at the light signals, or parking with A/C off.
I replaced ig. module, camshaft posision sensor, air intake hose (there was a huge crack), alternater (avg. voltage was too low), got a tune-up about a year ago. But the shutting up happens more often after replacing some parts.
So I think there is no connection between shuting up and the replaced parts.

Few month ago only 3~4 times happend for a month, then 1~2 times a week, but now 3~4 times a day. At first all the alarm lights came up on the board, but after replacing alternator and air intake hose, only two lights come up when the car dies. They are "battery" and "oil pressure." When the car died, I turn the ig. key off and turn on. Then the car runs good.

Especially, while parking after driving, I usually turn off the A/C. Then, the engin dies with two lights' (battery and oil pressure) coming up.

Where is the real problem from?

Welcome to AF. Try cleaning the throttle body and iac, also for checking purposes only disconnect the egr and see what happens.

Thank you for useful tips.

I cleared the throttle body valve, but not Idle Air Control valve yet.
So, I'll try it and see what's going on if I disconnect the EGR valve
for a while for testdriving.

But, this morning another problems appeared.
First, it needed longer time to start the car. Also, to start
the car, two or three times of turning (ignition key) were needed.
Second, a weird noise came from the hood (I think it was from somewhere around serpintine belt or alternator, though.). The noise sounded "sh-sh-sh-.....". The more I stepped on the gas pedal, the more serious was the noise.

Is it getting closer to a certain problematic cause?

Have you checked the spark plugs? If you decide to check them keep track of which cylinder each one comes from. Two that are darker could indicate a bad coil. If you have a multi-meter you can check the resistance of the ignition coils & fuel injectors.

Have you checked the spark plugs? If you decide to check them keep track of which cylinder each one comes from. Two that are darker could indicate a bad coil. If you have a multi-meter you can check the resistance of the ignition coils & fuel injectors.
Good info, but he never mentioned a misfire condition.

fyi clean your MAF and IAC with break cleaner and change plugs wire etc and also to a hardcore inspection of ALL vacuum lines :)

There was a misfire in one of the sylinders. So I replaced the coil. Then the misfire, check engine light, and other problems were gone. But still same stalling and even worse.

Anyway I hope the problem will be found.

The stalling sounds an awful lot like a failing crank sensor. Are you getting any diagnostic codes? If not, then that would further point towards a bad crank sensor as it usually doesn't set a code.

Oh, you can get diagnostic codes pulled for free from Autozone or similar, but you ought to disconnect the battery for about a half hour before you do to clear any codes that may have been thrown by your other issues.

Good info, but he never mentioned a misfire condition.


Are you saying there is no way the engine can misfire without the PCM detecting it? I don't believe it.

Are you saying there is no way the engine can misfire without the PCM detecting it? I don't believe it.
Where are we going with this ,I said he never mentioned a misfire condition, not a code, yes a misfire may not set a code, issue is again, he is not saying there is a noticeable misfire after the coil was replaced, his problem is a stalling.

Where are we going with this?

We are just having a 'conversation' with the goal of trying to help Olds9788.

Yes, stalling is the main problem. A misfire was a different thing and the problem was gone by replacing a new coil. Today, I got a weired noise. It was another different thing, too. The noise came from the tensioner of the drive belt. After replacing the tensioner, the terrible noise was gone and there was more power while driving. I changed my old battery because it was a chpeaper one and used for two years. This morning it took a time to start the engine. Now it is better. A mechanic and I discussed the stalling problem. And we agreed on a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor.

Thanks for concerns and opinions!

Failing tensioners are fairly common. When you replace the crank sensor, inspect the harmonic balancer for separation as the rubber starts to deteriorate. You might as well replace it if it looks like it has seen better days (and while you've got it apart :p)

I own a '95 EightyEight and mine did the exact same thing. It turned out to be a bad fuel sock. Repair was about $600 with labor. My car usually shut off when it started to get below 1/2 tank.

Thanks for concerns and tips.
I have been so upset because the stalling still appears.
Many folks tried to find what's going on, but nobody could find it.
The fuel pump is o.k. and everything is o.k.
Now my car is in an electrical auto shop. They have been
looking into it for two days. They say the ECU might be the cause.