n/a sr

hey guys ive been on these forums a while researching but i havent seen this question asked anywhere.....

i have a 88 200sx with a sr20de i bought the det engine and at the place told them to remove the turbo to get me a regular rwd sr20de manifold, the sr20de injectors and i basically got the sr20det internals and block b/c of its reliability and aftermarket potential. I removed the coil packs and changed it to disributors its been running perfectly for years and now i want to build a N/A sr. The car will be my street car for the weekends and i am aiming at about 200hp with the torque falling not too far behind.

Also the suspension is on its way with a set of Gab coilovers for the s14 and the spindle from the s14 allowing me to do this and if anybody happens to know how i could switch the s14 rear towers with he rear towers from my car.

Thanx in advance

raise compresson and get an SR20VE head (fom the gtir i think). switch the towers? lol...

just out of curiosity why are you going n/a? and do you mean switching the shock towers? i suppose you could plasma cut them out and weld them in, but the question would be why..

well for one in the dominican republic it is wayy to hot for a turbo sr :angryfire, and i personally like the idea of a N/A sr. I have decided to cut out the towers and weld the s14 ones in it should work out nicely The reason i have decided to get coilovers was b/c i sent new wide rims for it and the front ones are too wide and they clash with the spring.

visit TODA racing's website.

SR20VE head is from a Primera.

200whp from a DE costs LOTS of Money. But then again so does a VE head swap, but with much better results.

you should have kept the coilpacks.

not saying that you're wrong, but i know the pulsar had atleast sr16ve, and i'm pretty sure sr20ve. you can use the head from either of those engines.

you're right totally right. My bad. The 16VE has smaller combustion chambers for a higher compression too.

umm i read sumwhere that i should retard the timing on the exaust cam, can anybody clarify this? What would have to be done to put the vvl head on? vtc doesnt sound bad o and ill post pics soon

drilling and taping the head for the oil passage. cutting and boxing the firewall to clear the solenoids, getting an oil line. VE head gasket. a 20VE CAS. MSD window switch, and a fuel controller. and then you have about 40 more hp. The reason I said you shouldn't have gotten rid of the coil packs is you need them for this swap. the dizzy would own the firewall on the VE head.

oooo......well heres the link to my pics, but damn now i wish i havent gotten rid of the coil packs lol o well i think im going to do the vvl set up sounds nasty now all i have to do is get the spindle's from an s14 so i can put on my G.A.B coilovers and ill have that touge machine i always wanted:iceslolan
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2227758

ooo and does anybody know what would be my "safe redline" b/c idk..the det is at its highest at 7.2 stock? not sure

theres not a whole lot of reasons to rev past 7k. the stock turbo and motor stop making any real power by then.

For the VVL setup you'll also need a FWD front cover, modified with a little fab work.

the VE head can rev out to over 10,000rpms with a built valvetrain.

from SR20forums:
you have to use the FWD front cover (unless you're a glutton for punishment, as the RWD cover requires dramatic surgery to bolt to a FWD cylinder head... )

any FWD cover will work... your looking for the 2 6mm bolts on the outside of the cover (RWD bolts are inside the timing case). you then have to use the FWD oil pump drive. the hardest part of all of this is the crank pulley. use the RWD pulley, stock or otherwise (i used a UR super bling bling pulley), and mill the snout 5mm or it will bind on the pump drive when torqued.

and for what it's worth, there are how many numerous iterations of the SR front cover... they seem to get better with time. we know that the VVL pumps seem to flow the most... but what remains to be seen is if the S14 or S15 pumps are comprable (to the VE's... not that it matters), or if the N1 or VET pumps are higher flowing than the standard VE's... it looks to me like the newer the pumps got, the more refined the pump passageways became... but the VE, N1, and VET pumps all look the same internally... some have more ribbing on the outside... but other than that i can find no difference. long story short, i am using the VET cover simply because it was handy. with fresh oil and lots of revs, i can nearly bury the needle at 100psi on the 'ol oil pressure gauge.