Yet another problem! (weird electrical ignition issue)
macklime
10-14-2006, 02:13 AM
My car: 1995 Buick Regal, 3.8L Series 1 engine.
So, this happened to me tonight (and has happened before). I get in the car, turn the key, and dash lights up for just a second, then all dead. Car still has battery power (dome lights work). I try again, dead. Car does not turn over, power to the dash lights or radio do not come on. The car has some sort of security crap in it that's part of the autostarter system I think. I flicked the switch to on, the dash blinks and chimes. Try the key again, still dead. Turn the switch off, try again, and guess what? still dead. I keep trying the key several times and sometimes the dash lights up and immediately dies, and sometimes the SES light just barely illuminates. What I mean by barely is, the light was only slightly visible, hardly noticeable. I pop the hood, hood light has power. I do nothing and close the hood again. (this worked once in the past, or at least I think it did, maybe it was a coincidence). I turn the key to the on position, dash lights up, turn to the start position, all goes dead. I pop the hood again, wiggle the negative terminal (I am able to move it). It should be noted I have side terminals and the negative terminal cannot be tightened properly as it will loosen again...either the bolt is stripped or the terminal itself is. So it's not as tight as I'd like. So I moved the side terminal, closed the hood, and tried the key again. Bingo, car starts. I also have a short in the seat control (pushing certain buttons causes all dash lights to dim, rpms to drop, etc). So, I'm guessing it's either:
1) the battery connection - if so, why would there be power to the hood light, radio (forgot to mention if I turn the key backwards the radio works), dome lights, etc.
2) short in the ignition switch
3) problem with security system that came with the car, although, I had/have the switch for it turned off (under the dash)
4) problem with the ECM (car stalls intermittently too)
5) crank sensor problem?
Sorry for the long winded rant! I'm just so frustrated (took me 10 minutes to be able to start my car tonight) with always getting cars with electrical issues. I've had plymouth, chevrolet, honda, and now buick, and they all have had major electrical problems!
So, this happened to me tonight (and has happened before). I get in the car, turn the key, and dash lights up for just a second, then all dead. Car still has battery power (dome lights work). I try again, dead. Car does not turn over, power to the dash lights or radio do not come on. The car has some sort of security crap in it that's part of the autostarter system I think. I flicked the switch to on, the dash blinks and chimes. Try the key again, still dead. Turn the switch off, try again, and guess what? still dead. I keep trying the key several times and sometimes the dash lights up and immediately dies, and sometimes the SES light just barely illuminates. What I mean by barely is, the light was only slightly visible, hardly noticeable. I pop the hood, hood light has power. I do nothing and close the hood again. (this worked once in the past, or at least I think it did, maybe it was a coincidence). I turn the key to the on position, dash lights up, turn to the start position, all goes dead. I pop the hood again, wiggle the negative terminal (I am able to move it). It should be noted I have side terminals and the negative terminal cannot be tightened properly as it will loosen again...either the bolt is stripped or the terminal itself is. So it's not as tight as I'd like. So I moved the side terminal, closed the hood, and tried the key again. Bingo, car starts. I also have a short in the seat control (pushing certain buttons causes all dash lights to dim, rpms to drop, etc). So, I'm guessing it's either:
1) the battery connection - if so, why would there be power to the hood light, radio (forgot to mention if I turn the key backwards the radio works), dome lights, etc.
2) short in the ignition switch
3) problem with security system that came with the car, although, I had/have the switch for it turned off (under the dash)
4) problem with the ECM (car stalls intermittently too)
5) crank sensor problem?
Sorry for the long winded rant! I'm just so frustrated (took me 10 minutes to be able to start my car tonight) with always getting cars with electrical issues. I've had plymouth, chevrolet, honda, and now buick, and they all have had major electrical problems!
rhandwor
10-17-2006, 07:28 PM
Do you have origional equipment bolt or just a bolt to replace a corroded one.
If the second case a parts store should have a new bolt for this. If the threads are stripped I would suggest a new battery. You could try a longer bolt put it in finger tight then use washers so you won't bottom. Clean the terminal good and greese when done.
If the second case a parts store should have a new bolt for this. If the threads are stripped I would suggest a new battery. You could try a longer bolt put it in finger tight then use washers so you won't bottom. Clean the terminal good and greese when done.
macklime
10-18-2006, 05:07 PM
Do you have origional equipment bolt or just a bolt to replace a corroded one.
If the second case a parts store should have a new bolt for this. If the threads are stripped I would suggest a new battery. You could try a longer bolt put it in finger tight then use washers so you won't bottom. Clean the terminal good and greese when done.
I don't think changing the bolt would be sufficient. The threads are shot on the bolt, but I think that also means they're shot in the battery..It's all lead after all. A friend of mine, believe it or not, took the foil paper from a cigarette pack, burnt it to remove the paper part, rolled it up, stuffed it in the bolt hole of the battery. Then took a metal twist tie and bent it in a V shape, and placed it in the hole. Screwed the bolt into the hole, and it tightens without coming loose. My friend was able to initially remove the negative from the battery by hand. Now you can't do that. Go figure. So far so good...car has not had trouble starting (and hasn't stalled yet either). I still think the stall issue is likely something else..you typically should be able to disconnect the battery while the car is on and it should stay on if the altenator is powering everything...then again, fancy ECMs might stop that.
If the second case a parts store should have a new bolt for this. If the threads are stripped I would suggest a new battery. You could try a longer bolt put it in finger tight then use washers so you won't bottom. Clean the terminal good and greese when done.
I don't think changing the bolt would be sufficient. The threads are shot on the bolt, but I think that also means they're shot in the battery..It's all lead after all. A friend of mine, believe it or not, took the foil paper from a cigarette pack, burnt it to remove the paper part, rolled it up, stuffed it in the bolt hole of the battery. Then took a metal twist tie and bent it in a V shape, and placed it in the hole. Screwed the bolt into the hole, and it tightens without coming loose. My friend was able to initially remove the negative from the battery by hand. Now you can't do that. Go figure. So far so good...car has not had trouble starting (and hasn't stalled yet either). I still think the stall issue is likely something else..you typically should be able to disconnect the battery while the car is on and it should stay on if the altenator is powering everything...then again, fancy ECMs might stop that.
rhandwor
10-18-2006, 06:22 PM
Did you check grounds right side of engine,under left front seat,front of engine on transaxle stud,behind left side of I/P on steering column support.
You could use a 12V test light and put it on the ignition switch. Turn it on and off and try to catch it acting up. The module can cause starting problems. Advance or auto zone will check them for free. The camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor if unplugged a ohm meter will go from zero to one when cranking.
You could use a 12V test light and put it on the ignition switch. Turn it on and off and try to catch it acting up. The module can cause starting problems. Advance or auto zone will check them for free. The camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor if unplugged a ohm meter will go from zero to one when cranking.
jjchevy
01-30-2007, 07:47 PM
I had almost the exact same thing happen it ended up being the posetive battery connection
HotZ28
01-30-2007, 08:08 PM
Please Click Here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=635188) and read.
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