1994 engine in a 1997

will a 94 3cyl fit in a 97 3cyl? I thought you had to worry about the crank angle sensor and other things like the computer? can anyone tell me if this can be done? thank-you dave

YES.

I have a 99 Chevy Metro 3 cyl 5 speed and just installed a pre-96 3 cylinder in it. The motor I took out was also a pre-96 3 cylinder - so it had been replaced before I got it. The way I can tell is that the earlier 3 cylinder motors do not have a crank sensor. My electrical connector for the crank sensor was hanging loose in the engine compartment. Not having the crank sensor connected will cause a "check engine" lamp to come on, so if your's doesn't come on, check to see if the dash bulb is missing (mine was missing). I found a way to bypass the crank sensor by doing it the way the Honda guys do it with their JDM motors, and it clears the "check engine" light. I got my replacement motor from Nippon for $295 plus shipping and it came with a carborated intake and old style pulleys on it. My car is fuel injection. I had to use the pulleys that came with the replacement engine because I couldn't get the crank gear/sprocket off in order to re-use the newer-type pulleys. So I had to buy new belts, and reuse the alternator from the replacement motor. I may wrestle with this one day, but everything works so why mess with it. I just installed my TBI intake and original exhaust manifold. I did not have to do anything with the computer.

I just did this swap last month and have around 800 miles on the replacement motor. If I put my mind to it and get an early start, I could swap the motor and be driving down the road in the same day. I'm not Mr. mechanic, but the job is pretty straight forward.

YES.

I found a way to bypass the crank sensor by doing it the way the Honda guys do it with their JDM motors, and it clears the "check engine" light.

Hello,
How did you do this?:uhoh: I am looking into doing this for my '97. It would be nice not to spend money on another oil pump.
Thanks

There is a 2-wire connector coming off the distributor cap and ties in to a white quick-connect. You need to tap the two wires for the crank sensor into this quick connect. Simple as that. Make sure you disconnect the crank sensor from the harness, which will leave just the connector. The computer will see both signals and all will be good. I don't think there is a performance difference, just the clearing of the check engine light. Rumor has it that it does affect timing, but I didn't notice a difference. I will probably make it semi-permanent by making a good solder connection. Right now I just have two small (26-28 AWG?) wires stuck into the distributor quick-connect (then reconnected the quick disconnect - kinda tight), and have these stuck into the connector for the crank sensor and black-taped. Works good. Here is a link where I got the idea, but the Honda way is too complicated - I just simplified the idea... http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm If it still seems a little confusing, I can take a picture and it will be clearer. Might take a couple days since I will be gone this weekend.

99Metro;
Have you seen any driveability or fuel mileage changes with your mod? I was under the impression that the ECM needed the crank sensor info to accurately decide what portion of the fuel map to use.

I only have two engines to compare to, but this motor runs really good with no change in fuel mileage compared to the other. I was getting about 50mpg with the crank sensor disconnected on the other engine, and the same on this engine with the sensor connected. I was thinking of disconnecting the mod to see if there is a difference with this engine - as I haven't tried running it without the mod on this one yet. Now my curiousity is up and will try this after work today. I'll let you know if there is a difference in mileage and power later. With the other engine, there was no difference between the mod on or off - just the clearing of the check engine light.