wheel hub assembly removal
alero99
10-12-2006, 03:58 PM
My driver side bearing is going bad so i have to replace the hub assembly but the only question i have is if the hub assembly is pressed on or just bolted? I know some are pressed on and if you try to pry it off youll ruin the spindle(i think??)
Also i remember a while back ridenour was giving out a link on the hub assembly replacement and i was wondering if you could send me that link sometime
Thanks
Also i remember a while back ridenour was giving out a link on the hub assembly replacement and i was wondering if you could send me that link sometime
Thanks
jr6078
10-13-2006, 08:25 PM
The hub is pressed on, but it's only about a 1/4" to 3/8" section that's press fit. You can rent a wheel hub puller from Autozone if you don't have anything that will work or you could easily work it off by tapping gently from the back side with a dead-blow hammer or brass mallet. It doesn't really matter if you damage the old hub. You won't be using it again. As long as you work evenly side to side, you won't damage the spindle.
Just disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector before you start.
I don't have the link to the site ridenour posted, but the process is fairly simple. You'll want to remove the axle nut first. It should be a 35mm socket, unless you've got the upgraded nut, then it's a 36mm. The older style nut has a metal sleeve covering the nut, the newer style doesn't. If you can get to the nut through the wheel center opening it's easiest to get it off with the tire installed and the car on the ground.
Jack the car up, remove the wheel, the brake caliper, and the rotor. Remove the three bolts holding the hub to the spindle going through the holes in the hub in between the wheel studs. The hub should come off without too much effort as I described above. When you install the new hub, use the three bolts to press it into the spindle by drawing them down evenly. Be sure to feed the connector and wire through the spindle and be careful not to pinch the wire when you install the hub. Put everything else back together, and again it's easier to torque the axle nut going through the wheel with the tire installed and the car on the ground. I would recommend spending the $8-$10 bucks on the new style axle nut. Just remember that it's a 36mm socket, which is different than the old style nut (35mm).
Hope this helps and good luck!
Just disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector before you start.
I don't have the link to the site ridenour posted, but the process is fairly simple. You'll want to remove the axle nut first. It should be a 35mm socket, unless you've got the upgraded nut, then it's a 36mm. The older style nut has a metal sleeve covering the nut, the newer style doesn't. If you can get to the nut through the wheel center opening it's easiest to get it off with the tire installed and the car on the ground.
Jack the car up, remove the wheel, the brake caliper, and the rotor. Remove the three bolts holding the hub to the spindle going through the holes in the hub in between the wheel studs. The hub should come off without too much effort as I described above. When you install the new hub, use the three bolts to press it into the spindle by drawing them down evenly. Be sure to feed the connector and wire through the spindle and be careful not to pinch the wire when you install the hub. Put everything else back together, and again it's easier to torque the axle nut going through the wheel with the tire installed and the car on the ground. I would recommend spending the $8-$10 bucks on the new style axle nut. Just remember that it's a 36mm socket, which is different than the old style nut (35mm).
Hope this helps and good luck!
alero99
10-20-2006, 05:20 PM
ok im in the middle of replacing it
I got the old hub assembly off and am ready to put in the new one but....
Does the new bearing create the back of the steering knuckle that the spindle is against or is there a thin metal plate between the bearing and the spindle?
If there is supposed to be a plate back there how do i get the abs connector through the plate without cutting the wires because the connector wont fit through the hole?
The reason I ask is that im kinda confused on the whole situation-i got the old one out and the back looked like there were pieces still pressed in the knuckle but i couldnt tell what....im just confused...
I got the old hub assembly off and am ready to put in the new one but....
Does the new bearing create the back of the steering knuckle that the spindle is against or is there a thin metal plate between the bearing and the spindle?
If there is supposed to be a plate back there how do i get the abs connector through the plate without cutting the wires because the connector wont fit through the hole?
The reason I ask is that im kinda confused on the whole situation-i got the old one out and the back looked like there were pieces still pressed in the knuckle but i couldnt tell what....im just confused...
xeroinfinity
10-20-2006, 05:31 PM
thier should not be a plate in back.
the plug/wire should just go through the opening that the axle goes through.
thiers a plate in front/outside, but thier isnt anywhere for the plug to go through.
that would be the dust shield for the brakes.
the plug/wire should just go through the opening that the axle goes through.
thiers a plate in front/outside, but thier isnt anywhere for the plug to go through.
that would be the dust shield for the brakes.
jr6078
10-20-2006, 08:07 PM
Yeah, when I made my original post, I was incorrect, the hub bolts on from the inside of the spindle. The three bolts to remove are from the inside, not through the holes in the hub. I was thinking of another vehicle. There's a dust shield for the brakes that's sandwiched between the hub assembly and the spindle. It should come off when you take the hub off. Just feed the new wire through the hole in the center of the plate and then through the spindle where the axle goes through. Then you should be able to align the holes and start the bolts back in from the back side.
Sorry for any confusion or extra work I may have caused.
Sorry for any confusion or extra work I may have caused.
alero99
10-21-2006, 12:30 AM
No problem Jr...i appreciate the help-what i am confused about is a part of the old assembly must still be pressed in the knuckle judging by what you and xero said... the problem is though that i dont see the seem where the two metals meet thats what made me wonder if its supposed to be there
There is the circle of the knuckle and then where the new assembly goes there is a plate with a whole just big enough for the drive axle to press against. (not the dust sheild-thats already off) around hole there is a little rubber seal (maybe?) so I figured it stayed there. also there is a little oval about a 1/4 of inch long where the old wires went through. I guess i will just bang on this a little and see what happens haha
There is the circle of the knuckle and then where the new assembly goes there is a plate with a whole just big enough for the drive axle to press against. (not the dust sheild-thats already off) around hole there is a little rubber seal (maybe?) so I figured it stayed there. also there is a little oval about a 1/4 of inch long where the old wires went through. I guess i will just bang on this a little and see what happens haha
alero99
10-21-2006, 10:55 AM
alright i finally figured everything out- the back cover of the old assembly was still pressed into the knuckle so it looked like it was part of the knuckle-i just had to bend that out and everything was somewhat smooth sailing from there. Everythings in and working now.
Thanks guys-couldn't have done it without ya...
Thanks guys-couldn't have done it without ya...
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