head gaskets

ok i got est. prices on how much it would cost to get my blown head gasket fixed..people were sayin anywhere from $1200-1600...im not sure but cant i just get new heads and gaskets and have some one put em on ...for much cheaper...any help welcome!

New heads would cost a pretty penny.

If your kind of mechanically inclined you can do it.

but if you cant expect to pay 1k+

And you need new heads because?

What year/engine are we talking about?

heads for a 305 1991....im not mechanicly inclined but i was told i could have a crack or something in my heads.. i found a website www.cylinder-heads.com and they have heads for a resonable price i think...this way i wont have to get my old ones "machine shoped" or whatever....and they could just put on the new head gaskets also....right?

heads for a 305 1991....im not mechanicly inclined but i was told i could have a crack or something in my heads.. i found a website www.cylinder-heads.com and they have heads for a resonable price i think...this way i wont have to get my old ones "machine shoped" or whatever....and they could just put on the new head gaskets also....right?

It'd be cheaper to have your heads magnafluxed and surfaced (milled) than to get more heads. The only time I'd go the route you are is if the heads were seriously warped/cracked and had valve guides that were worn enough to make the engine smoke.

Don't ever spring for a head with "knurled" guides - these never last more than 20-30k miles.

It'd be cheaper to have your heads magnafluxed and surfaced (milled) than to get more heads. The only time I'd go the route you are is if the heads were seriously warped/cracked and had valve guides that were worn enough to make the engine smoke.

Don't ever spring for a head with "knurled" guides - these never last more than 20-30k miles.

Can valve guides be replaced?

Can valve guides be replaced?

Yes, they make replacement valve guides that require machine removal of the old guides (they're basically drilled out) and then they're pressed in place. The good ones are made out of a silicon bronze alloy - the best ones are at least 1/8" thick. These will literally last the life of the engine and beyond - and the silicon provides for excellent oil control, as knurled guides do, but with longevity. I had this done to the cylinder heads I am now using and like the rest of the engine, they have over 1/4 million miles on them (264k to be exact) and the engine uses about .25 qt oil between every change, what it's always used since the engine was broken in. Highly recommended.

Yes, they make replacement valve guides that require machine removal of the old guides (they're basically drilled out) and then they're pressed in place. The good ones are made out of a silicon bronze alloy - the best ones are at least 1/8" thick. These will literally last the life of the engine and beyond - and the silicon provides for excellent oil control, as knurled guides do, but with longevity. I had this done to the cylinder heads I am now using and like the rest of the engine, they have over 1/4 million miles on them (264k to be exact) and the engine uses about .25 qt oil between every change, what it's always used since the engine was broken in. Highly recommended.
is it really expensive? The heads for my 383 need it.

i'd hate to put all this money into it, and have it burn oil :P

I have 2 sets of heads, dunno which to use yet, I have the stock 76cc ones and a pair of 70cc heads, 185 casting

is it really expensive? The heads for my 383 need it.

i'd hate to put all this money into it, and have it burn oil :P

I have 2 sets of heads, dunno which to use yet, I have the stock 76cc ones and a pair of 70cc heads, 185 casting

I honestly don't remember what I paid for the individual guides - it was in 1993 anyways. What I will tell you is this:

I paid about $800 for the head work, including the cost of components. Work done was some bowl blending, recut exhaust for hardened seats, the aforementioned valve guides, stainless valves (Manley RaceFlo), Competition Cams' (COMP) springs/retainers/locks/roller-tip rockers, machining down intake guides for the use of positive lock seals, the positive lock seals themselves, surfacing, and port-matching of the intake ports. What I didn't do, that I probably should have done, was replace the pressed rocker studs with screw-in studs.

If you have dish pistons, go with the 70s - if you have flat-tops, go with the 76s - based purely on a compression standpoint.

I honestly don't remember what I paid for the individual guides - it was in 1993 anyways. What I will tell you is this:

I paid about $800 for the head work, including the cost of components. Work done was some bowl blending, recut exhaust for hardened seats, the aforementioned valve guides, stainless valves (Manley RaceFlo), Competition Cams' (COMP) springs/retainers/locks/roller-tip rockers, machining down intake guides for the use of positive lock seals, the positive lock seals themselves, surfacing, and port-matching of the intake ports. What I didn't do, that I probably should have done, was replace the pressed rocker studs with screw-in studs.

If you have dish pistons, go with the 70s - if you have flat-tops, go with the 76s - based purely on a compression standpoint.
would dish pistons be like the ones you showed me before? the KB ones with the big indent in them http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=details&P_id=92

if i use these pistons and my 70 cc heads i would have about 9.5:1 estimated compression. Is that too much? i dont mind using premium gas

and are the 185 casting heads any good flow wise?