Front Brakes

Today for the first time I changed my calipers and pads. I order some drill slotted rotors and hope to put those on too. But I notice that the pad rubs the rotor and causes a good amount of friction is this normal or what can I do to fix this?

Also I have a quick question about bleeding brakes do you take the master cylinder cap off when you bleed the brakes and do you have someone hold the pedal down as you turn the bleeder screw?

you do NOT leave the cap open.. and when you bleed, you make someone pump the brakes a couple times.. then hold it as hard as they can..
then you open the bleed valve a LITTLE and let the fluid out, stop letting the fluid out before the brake bottoms out, then repeat a few times till you dont see bubbles anymore.. also, make sure you use a good wrench..not the two sided one.. eithier a round end or a flared end to bleed.. its also easier to put a tube on the valve so it doesnt squirt ya in the face =P

you do NOT leave the cap open.. and when you bleed, you make someone pump the brakes a couple times.. then hold it as hard as they can..
then you open the bleed valve a LITTLE and let the fluid out, stop letting the fluid out before the brake bottoms out, then repeat a few times till you dont see bubbles anymore.. also, make sure you use a good wrench..not the two sided one.. eithier a round end or a flared end to bleed.. its also easier to put a tube on the valve so it doesnt squirt ya in the face =P
and start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder ex: RR, RL,
FR, FL

When you change pads/rotors it is important to get the caliper piston fully retracted. Remove the reservoir lid and put rags around the reservoir. Using an old pad (against the piston) and large C clamp (from pad to back of caliper) squeeze the caliper/piston until the piston is fully retracted back into the caliper. Now you are ready for your new pads and rotors. BTW, the rags are there to catch any brake fluid that may overflow from the reservoir as you retract the pistons.

you dont have to have the lid sealed on do you. I usually just set the lid on to keep the fluid from spraying out. Does it need a seal? My brakes are nice and tight....for a thirdgen anyways....so im guess it doesnt matter.

... I notice that the pad rubs the rotor and causes a good amount of friction is this normal or what can I do to fix this?

After installing the calipers and cycling the brakes a few times to fully seat the pads, if you can turn the rotors by hand with the wheels removed, the brake drag is not excessive.

yeah, i think you put the cap on just to prevent it from spray.. i know once when i sealed it, the suction made it hard to remove the cap after bleeding it a couple times

The calipers where new and were already retracted. I think when I tried to bleed the brakes thats when they started draging. Also I need to flush the fluid because it is coffe black or should it just be replaced?

bleed the b*tch till its clear ;D

When you bleed brakes set the cap or cover on the M/Cyl with out twisting or clamping it down. In cases where calipers are being reused, you have an opportunity to open the bleeder and connect a piece of vacuum hose to squeeze the dirty brake fluid into something so you don't make a mess, rather than pumping the dirtiest fluid in the entire brake system back through ABS and likely overflow the master. Save some of those shop towels for something else.

If you don't have a C clamp, Harbor Freight has very inexpensive ones. They also have a tool that looks like a brake pade with a screw through the middle of it that is made for pushing caliper pistons back into calipers that costs even less than a C clamp.

When there is an air bubble in the brake system and you pump the brake pedal, the bubble exploads into thousands if not millions of smaller bubbles and turns to foam. It is better to open the bleeder first and have somebody gently press down on the brake pedal.

It takes about a quart of fluid to flush the hydraulic system. What ever it takes to get clear fluid.