Changing timing belt
neogenesis
10-01-2006, 12:00 PM
I have a Honda Passport 98 and was wondering is their a guide to change the timing belt? I haven't really looked at the engine becuase it's my dad's so I don't know how much room I have to work with. Would I have to remove the fan or radiator to access the crank pulley?
I know I have to mark the timing with the belt on and such, but was wondering if there was something else to note about these engines?
Thanks
I know I have to mark the timing with the belt on and such, but was wondering if there was something else to note about these engines?
Thanks
trooperbc
10-01-2006, 06:16 PM
I have a Honda Passport 98 and was wondering is their a guide to change the timing belt? I haven't really looked at the engine becuase it's my dad's so I don't know how much room I have to work with. Would I have to remove the fan or radiator to access the crank pulley?
Thanks
yes you need to remove the fan and protect the radiator.
I know I have to mark the timing with the belt on and such, but was wondering if there was something else to note about these engines?
there's a bunch. marking the timing belt won't help, because you are chaning it. but you do need to know how to set the timing (i.e. the camshafts and crank), etc.
normally, on these engines the following are done at the same time
*timing belt
*timing belt tensioner (it's the thing that goes the most)
*water pump (it's behind the timing belt, so now's the time to do it)
*possible timing belt pulley if indicated (probably not)
*accessory (external) belts or serpentine belt, whichever you have
depending on your prior experience you may be able to do this with help from here and/or the other forums, but i urge you to get some expert help in the factory manuals and updates available at www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com) expensive and very good.
and/or subscribe to alldata for $25 the first year; basically the factory manuals online plus some extra stuff www.alldata.com (http://www.alldata.com)
hope that's a start...
btw, how many miles? any indications of tb problems?
hth
//bc
Thanks
yes you need to remove the fan and protect the radiator.
I know I have to mark the timing with the belt on and such, but was wondering if there was something else to note about these engines?
there's a bunch. marking the timing belt won't help, because you are chaning it. but you do need to know how to set the timing (i.e. the camshafts and crank), etc.
normally, on these engines the following are done at the same time
*timing belt
*timing belt tensioner (it's the thing that goes the most)
*water pump (it's behind the timing belt, so now's the time to do it)
*possible timing belt pulley if indicated (probably not)
*accessory (external) belts or serpentine belt, whichever you have
depending on your prior experience you may be able to do this with help from here and/or the other forums, but i urge you to get some expert help in the factory manuals and updates available at www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com) expensive and very good.
and/or subscribe to alldata for $25 the first year; basically the factory manuals online plus some extra stuff www.alldata.com (http://www.alldata.com)
hope that's a start...
btw, how many miles? any indications of tb problems?
hth
//bc
2000Frontera
10-01-2006, 08:07 PM
Guys,
an extract from a forum I have kept in readiness to do mine. This may help.
I also have two great photos of the front of the engine stripped but don't know how to post these. Maybe someone can help me there.
Wayne.
----------------------------------------------------------------
I just did the timing belt on my 1999 Rodeo last weekend. It's an all day job or more if it's your first time. Here's what I did.
1. Remove the drive belt
2. Remove the 3 fan mount bolts up against the engine. you don't have to take the fan apart.
3.Removed the radator/hoses for more room but not neccesary. I ended up replaceing the hoses.
4. Remove the drive belt idler pulley.
5. Remove the drive belt tensioner to be able to remove the passenger side timing cover. 2 bolts, one just above it the other an allan head bolt through the center of it.
6. You might be able to remove the drivers side timing cover without moving the power steering pump. If not then you can remove 3 bolts accessed through holes in its pulley. I then pried it to the side about 1/2" and the cover comes off easily.
7. I have a manual transmission so when removing the crank pulley I just put the vehicle in gear and used a 3ft. cheater on my breaker bar. Otherwise just hit the starter to break the bolt loose. The pulley easily pulled off by hand.
8. I replaced the water pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley, timing idler pulley, timing belt.
9. When installing the timing belt I found it easier to attach the belt at the cam pulley first and the crank last. use "binder clips" or small wood working clamps to hold the belt on each pulley. Oh I didn't need to remove the spark plugs to rotate the crank into position. Just move slowly with occasional pauses to release the pressure.
Another thing to remember is that when putting the water pump back on if your putting a new one in is the top right bolt hole stays empty until you put the fan mount back on. Also one of the bolts has to have thread locker on it to seal.
----------------------------------------
I'm in the middle of this, now, on my 2001 4WD V6. Everything Ab6cr says is dead on . I would add, though . . . be sure to have all parts you think you may need, in hand before starting. Upon disassembly, I found my idler pulley to be a bit rattley, so I've had to leave the truck torn apart for a week now, waiting on a new idler.
Here are some images to inspire you:
This is with everything removed and the belt ready to come off. I didn't have to remove the power steering pump; remove the three mounting bolts and lever it out of the way. Also, the radiator can stay in place, though, don't damage it; I used an impact to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and had plenty of clearance with the radiator installed.
an extract from a forum I have kept in readiness to do mine. This may help.
I also have two great photos of the front of the engine stripped but don't know how to post these. Maybe someone can help me there.
Wayne.
----------------------------------------------------------------
I just did the timing belt on my 1999 Rodeo last weekend. It's an all day job or more if it's your first time. Here's what I did.
1. Remove the drive belt
2. Remove the 3 fan mount bolts up against the engine. you don't have to take the fan apart.
3.Removed the radator/hoses for more room but not neccesary. I ended up replaceing the hoses.
4. Remove the drive belt idler pulley.
5. Remove the drive belt tensioner to be able to remove the passenger side timing cover. 2 bolts, one just above it the other an allan head bolt through the center of it.
6. You might be able to remove the drivers side timing cover without moving the power steering pump. If not then you can remove 3 bolts accessed through holes in its pulley. I then pried it to the side about 1/2" and the cover comes off easily.
7. I have a manual transmission so when removing the crank pulley I just put the vehicle in gear and used a 3ft. cheater on my breaker bar. Otherwise just hit the starter to break the bolt loose. The pulley easily pulled off by hand.
8. I replaced the water pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley, timing idler pulley, timing belt.
9. When installing the timing belt I found it easier to attach the belt at the cam pulley first and the crank last. use "binder clips" or small wood working clamps to hold the belt on each pulley. Oh I didn't need to remove the spark plugs to rotate the crank into position. Just move slowly with occasional pauses to release the pressure.
Another thing to remember is that when putting the water pump back on if your putting a new one in is the top right bolt hole stays empty until you put the fan mount back on. Also one of the bolts has to have thread locker on it to seal.
----------------------------------------
I'm in the middle of this, now, on my 2001 4WD V6. Everything Ab6cr says is dead on . I would add, though . . . be sure to have all parts you think you may need, in hand before starting. Upon disassembly, I found my idler pulley to be a bit rattley, so I've had to leave the truck torn apart for a week now, waiting on a new idler.
Here are some images to inspire you:
This is with everything removed and the belt ready to come off. I didn't have to remove the power steering pump; remove the three mounting bolts and lever it out of the way. Also, the radiator can stay in place, though, don't damage it; I used an impact to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and had plenty of clearance with the radiator installed.
trooperbc
10-01-2006, 09:45 PM
...I also have two great photos of the front of the engine stripped but don't know how to post these. Maybe someone can help me there.
...
go to http://photobucket.com/
sign up, follow their directions to download photo there. it's free.
then when you want to post a photo here, click the "mountain-sun-yellow sky" icon above the posting text box. then copy the URL for the photo on photobucket and paste in the insert image dialog box here.
it's easier to do than write about it.
hth
//bc
...
go to http://photobucket.com/
sign up, follow their directions to download photo there. it's free.
then when you want to post a photo here, click the "mountain-sun-yellow sky" icon above the posting text box. then copy the URL for the photo on photobucket and paste in the insert image dialog box here.
it's easier to do than write about it.
hth
//bc
neogenesis
10-01-2006, 10:18 PM
The car is running near 115k on the oringinal belt and I believe the tensioner is going bad. So I would like to take care of all of these before they actually fail. Would parts from a auto store such as AutoZone be good enough or will dealer parts be needed?
What's the average price for everything?
Thanks
What's the average price for everything?
Thanks
trooperbc
10-01-2006, 11:51 PM
dealer only. best bet really is st. charles isuzu a dealer in missouri who ships free, gives 15% 'internet discount' and has excellent knowlegeable parts guy in Merlin, ask for him
or JLEMOND who has lots of isuzu oem parts at excellent prices i've read and he is extremely knowlegeable and helpful on all things isuzu.
look in the Amigo-2k's FAQ for the contact info
sounds like you want to do this sooner than later
hth
//bc
or JLEMOND who has lots of isuzu oem parts at excellent prices i've read and he is extremely knowlegeable and helpful on all things isuzu.
look in the Amigo-2k's FAQ for the contact info
sounds like you want to do this sooner than later
hth
//bc
2000Frontera
10-02-2006, 12:46 AM
Photos:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming2.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming1.jpg
One of my Australian (Rodeo 4WD) Frontera while I'm here :
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/DSCF0030.jpg
Cheers,
Wayne
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming2.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming1.jpg
One of my Australian (Rodeo 4WD) Frontera while I'm here :
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/DSCF0030.jpg
Cheers,
Wayne
trooperbc
10-03-2006, 12:55 AM
OR...like this:
Photos:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming2.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming1.jpg
One of my Australian (Rodeo 4WD) Frontera while I'm here :
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/DSCF0030.jpg
Cheers,
Wayne
nice pix, thanks,
//bc
Photos:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming2.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/rodeotiming1.jpg
One of my Australian (Rodeo 4WD) Frontera while I'm here :
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/McKee_62/DSCF0030.jpg
Cheers,
Wayne
nice pix, thanks,
//bc
amigo-2k
10-03-2006, 09:17 AM
I'll add this to the FAQ's. Maybe 2eye will put his 2 cents in to...
2eyefishclaw
10-03-2006, 07:35 PM
I have tried and am exhausted from trying to get a $#%@!&^ picture up in here .
be sure to line everything up before removing the t-belt
DO NOT rotate camshafts after belt has been removed or you will have major work to do
dont sweat it easy job I do it in 15-20 minutes
you should be able to get it in under 4 hrs never having done it before
be sure to line everything up before removing the t-belt
DO NOT rotate camshafts after belt has been removed or you will have major work to do
dont sweat it easy job I do it in 15-20 minutes
you should be able to get it in under 4 hrs never having done it before
surferfletch
10-03-2006, 08:24 PM
No reason mark and match wouldn't work, too. Looks very close to the '97 setup as far as the belt, tensioners, and pulley goes.
amigo-2k
10-03-2006, 08:30 PM
2eyefishclaw
10-04-2006, 11:10 PM
jimwelsh
10-12-2006, 02:14 PM
Hello. Nice ride. In the first picture, it shows both the TENSIONER PULLEY and the TENSIONER ADJUSTER. In the second picture, it shows just the TENSIONER PULLEY, and it looks like the TENSIONER ADJUSTER has been removed. My question is, what is the one that starts making noise when it is getting to go south?
jimwelsh
10-12-2006, 02:17 PM
Hello. Nice ride. In the first picture, it shows both the TENSIONER PULLEY and the TENSIONER ADJUSTER. In the second picture, it shows just the TENSIONER PULLEY, and it looks like the TENSIONER ADJUSTER has been removed. My question is, what is the one that starts making the noise when it is getting ready to go south?:screwy:
Ramblin Fever
10-12-2006, 02:59 PM
NICE truck!
2eyefishclaw
10-12-2006, 06:27 PM
it is the tensioner that usually starts knocking when the seal gives out and all of the tensioners blood leaks out
neogenesis
10-12-2006, 08:08 PM
normally, on these engines the following are done at the same time
*timing belt
*timing belt tensioner (it's the thing that goes the most)
*water pump (it's behind the timing belt, so now's the time to do it)
*possible timing belt pulley if indicated (probably not)
*accessory (external) belts or serpentine belt, whichever you have
What's the average price if I order from St. Charles Isuzu? It's been slow getting a reply on part prices so just wondering if anybody remembers what they paid for.
Thanks.
*timing belt
*timing belt tensioner (it's the thing that goes the most)
*water pump (it's behind the timing belt, so now's the time to do it)
*possible timing belt pulley if indicated (probably not)
*accessory (external) belts or serpentine belt, whichever you have
What's the average price if I order from St. Charles Isuzu? It's been slow getting a reply on part prices so just wondering if anybody remembers what they paid for.
Thanks.
jimwelsh
10-20-2006, 03:48 PM
I can visualize changing the timing belt, which according to the manual, it is just a matter of lining up all the marks correctly. From the pictures, it looks relatively easy. What I can not visualize is how theTENSIONER ADJUSTER works. Apparently, it is hydraulic? How does it maintain pressure on the TENSIONER PULLEY? The manual is vague on this part, basically, it just tells you how to 'lock' it using a piece of piano wire.
Also, just for information, there is a company called Scarff Motors in Auburn Washington, http://www.isuzuparts.com, that sells the TENSIONER ADJUSTER for the 1999 Isuzu 3.2 for $62.86 plus shipping.
Also, just for information, there is a company called Scarff Motors in Auburn Washington, http://www.isuzuparts.com, that sells the TENSIONER ADJUSTER for the 1999 Isuzu 3.2 for $62.86 plus shipping.
trooperbc
10-20-2006, 06:26 PM
...St. Charles Isuzu? It's been slow getting a reply
Thanks.
don't use that form they have on their site. i just used that myself for the first time figuring it was the fastest way. after a couple of days i called and talked to merlin -- he said they hardly look at that anymore and the best is to call. (they are open saturday morning, btw)
//bc
P.S.and i'm not where i can access my invoices to tell you about prices (besides my parts came from the local dealer back when... you can just get the prices from merlin and call him back again to order if you need to. i can tell you they are not cheap. i don't know, did i mention JLEMOND, who was an ex isuzu mechanic's instructor if i have that exactly correct, and also sells oem isuzu parts; very knowledgeable and helpful -- check the FAQ and email him if you like
Thanks.
don't use that form they have on their site. i just used that myself for the first time figuring it was the fastest way. after a couple of days i called and talked to merlin -- he said they hardly look at that anymore and the best is to call. (they are open saturday morning, btw)
//bc
P.S.and i'm not where i can access my invoices to tell you about prices (besides my parts came from the local dealer back when... you can just get the prices from merlin and call him back again to order if you need to. i can tell you they are not cheap. i don't know, did i mention JLEMOND, who was an ex isuzu mechanic's instructor if i have that exactly correct, and also sells oem isuzu parts; very knowledgeable and helpful -- check the FAQ and email him if you like
trooperbc
10-20-2006, 06:33 PM
...What I can not visualize is how theTENSIONER ADJUSTER works. Apparently, it is hydraulic? How does it maintain pressure on the TENSIONER PULLEY? ....
it just pushes against the tension pulley which 'pushes' against the belt. it's 'default' position is pushing out, applying considerable force to the belt via the tension pulley. it's purpose is to keep that belt at the correct (tight) tension. when the tensioner is shot (no hydraulic pressure), the pulley 'paddle' that the tensioner rod is pushing against gets to make one horrendous noise banging against that useless rod.
the new one will come with a pin installed. don't take it out until you have everything installed and ready to go and then remember to pull that pin then. if you do it first, you won't get everything installed -- to push that pin in you pretty much need to put it in a vice and crank and CRANK it back in. iirc jlemond said it was like 200 lbs of pressure. . .
hth
//bc
it just pushes against the tension pulley which 'pushes' against the belt. it's 'default' position is pushing out, applying considerable force to the belt via the tension pulley. it's purpose is to keep that belt at the correct (tight) tension. when the tensioner is shot (no hydraulic pressure), the pulley 'paddle' that the tensioner rod is pushing against gets to make one horrendous noise banging against that useless rod.
the new one will come with a pin installed. don't take it out until you have everything installed and ready to go and then remember to pull that pin then. if you do it first, you won't get everything installed -- to push that pin in you pretty much need to put it in a vice and crank and CRANK it back in. iirc jlemond said it was like 200 lbs of pressure. . .
hth
//bc
surferfletch
10-20-2006, 10:32 PM
And there's no need to worry about pushing it back in if you're in there for a t-belt change. It should get swapped every time the belt is changed.
2000Frontera
10-23-2006, 09:28 PM
Gathering all the bits to start this project. One thing I need is the torque limits for all the nuts and bolts I'll have to re-install.
Has anyone got all these? Is there a simple PDF file available which give all engine bolt torque limits?
Thanks,
Wayne.
Has anyone got all these? Is there a simple PDF file available which give all engine bolt torque limits?
Thanks,
Wayne.
redbug
10-24-2006, 11:36 AM
I wonder if you will be able to find torque limits for those bolts? Perhaps an official ISUZU service manual might go into that detail...? If you can't find them, go with "tight".
lewball
10-05-2007, 09:03 PM
Are there any diagrams available for alignment for a X22SE engine?
History: My original engine blew due to the timing tensioner recall - Engine was replaced via Isuzu Dealer (AWESOME CUSTOMER SERVICE BTW), but I've now got ~100,000 miles on the replacement engine and get a 'Check Engine' warning lite - Had it checked @ AutoZone - error message stated something about the 'cam' alignment sensor.
I have the parts (timing belt, tensonor, & both Idlers, water pump, complete engine gasket kit) but need to know the proper alignment sequence for Re-Install of the timing belt. I've looked and can't find the alignment sequence.
Also, before I dig into the front of this, and looking to be prepared, I've read something about 'lock-tite' on one of the water-pump bolts - which one?
I have a Serpintine belt, Should I acquire any other parts prior to dismantling? - Radiator Fluid Flush/ fluid?, ect.?
Help Please.... I'm not ignorant when it comes to repairs as I've done all of the regular maintenance to this wonderful 98 Amigo, but it's been almost 15 years since I've done a timing belt and I can't afford to be without my truck for an extended period of time.
- lewball
History: My original engine blew due to the timing tensioner recall - Engine was replaced via Isuzu Dealer (AWESOME CUSTOMER SERVICE BTW), but I've now got ~100,000 miles on the replacement engine and get a 'Check Engine' warning lite - Had it checked @ AutoZone - error message stated something about the 'cam' alignment sensor.
I have the parts (timing belt, tensonor, & both Idlers, water pump, complete engine gasket kit) but need to know the proper alignment sequence for Re-Install of the timing belt. I've looked and can't find the alignment sequence.
Also, before I dig into the front of this, and looking to be prepared, I've read something about 'lock-tite' on one of the water-pump bolts - which one?
I have a Serpintine belt, Should I acquire any other parts prior to dismantling? - Radiator Fluid Flush/ fluid?, ect.?
Help Please.... I'm not ignorant when it comes to repairs as I've done all of the regular maintenance to this wonderful 98 Amigo, but it's been almost 15 years since I've done a timing belt and I can't afford to be without my truck for an extended period of time.
- lewball
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