Rear driver side tire wont move??
persuazion
09-26-2006, 04:07 PM
Hey guys...well I fixed the last problem with my car with some help from yall and what do ya know? A new problem. I went to start my car this morning and when I put it in reverse,it wouldnt move....it usually starts rolling on its own.So I put in in park and back in reverse and nothing.I tried giving it gas and it barely moved.I put it in drive and it wouldnt go.Finally after I gave it enough gas it moves but kind of slid back and I heard a screeching noise. My neighbor was pointing at my tire so I get out and look at it and the rear driver side tire is the only one that left a skidmark.He said that tire wasnt moving.So I go and try it again and it rolls perfectly now.But I dont want this to happen while Im driving or somthing.Ive never even heard of this happening.Is it the brakes? Or the tire itself? Any help would be appreciated as it will probaly save my life.
Alibi
09-26-2006, 05:51 PM
Drum brakes or disc? I would assume drum...
The first thingthat came to my mind was that your rear bearing had siezed, but you said you tried it again and it rolled fine....so then that leads me to think of your braking system.
It takes quite a bit of force to keep a tire from moving at all. If you have drum brakes, remove the tire and pull the drum off the shoes. Inspect the springs to see if any have broken, causing a pad to rub against the drum (and therefore keeping it from moving). If that checks out good then the next thing I would look at would be your proportioning valves (long brass-colored things on the master cylander...not sure on an ABS car tho). Could just be gummed up or ??
If those are't the culprit....hmm....not sure. Maybe something with the ABS? Or the brake booser?
The first thingthat came to my mind was that your rear bearing had siezed, but you said you tried it again and it rolled fine....so then that leads me to think of your braking system.
It takes quite a bit of force to keep a tire from moving at all. If you have drum brakes, remove the tire and pull the drum off the shoes. Inspect the springs to see if any have broken, causing a pad to rub against the drum (and therefore keeping it from moving). If that checks out good then the next thing I would look at would be your proportioning valves (long brass-colored things on the master cylander...not sure on an ABS car tho). Could just be gummed up or ??
If those are't the culprit....hmm....not sure. Maybe something with the ABS? Or the brake booser?
persuazion
09-26-2006, 06:16 PM
I think the front are disc and the rear are drum....I dont know though,I have never had to mess with them.Im going to go check it out now....also the abs light never came on...
Bassasasin
09-26-2006, 07:05 PM
The 97 or the 99.. you have been posting..
persuazion
09-26-2006, 08:11 PM
The 97 or the 99.. you have been posting..
yeah the 99.....I went to go look at it and my lugwrench is too small for the lugnuts(Ive never had to take the tires off).lol...so I went and bought a lugwrench to fit and now its too dark to look at it....
yeah the 99.....I went to go look at it and my lugwrench is too small for the lugnuts(Ive never had to take the tires off).lol...so I went and bought a lugwrench to fit and now its too dark to look at it....
persuazion
09-26-2006, 08:12 PM
This Is A Common Problem With Older Gm Cars.
well why is it doing it??
well why is it doing it??
Alibi
09-26-2006, 09:46 PM
Guys, just edit your posts, don't double post....or quad post for that matter.
As for the T Type, it isnt a Regal. it is a Lesabre and, unfortunately, it isn't turboed (but it will be supercharged after I blow the current motor). If you want more info, go here http://www.lesabret.com or here http://www.cardomain.com/id/alibi
As for this being a common problem, please explain as I haven't ever heard of this problem. What causes it?
As for the rear brakes, it is probably drums, but I just brought up due to the possibility of discs since some Bonnevilles have 4 wheel disk and some people get bored and convert other H-bodies to all disk.
As for the T Type, it isnt a Regal. it is a Lesabre and, unfortunately, it isn't turboed (but it will be supercharged after I blow the current motor). If you want more info, go here http://www.lesabret.com or here http://www.cardomain.com/id/alibi
As for this being a common problem, please explain as I haven't ever heard of this problem. What causes it?
As for the rear brakes, it is probably drums, but I just brought up due to the possibility of discs since some Bonnevilles have 4 wheel disk and some people get bored and convert other H-bodies to all disk.
persuazion
09-26-2006, 10:23 PM
How hard is it to take off the drums? Should I even try it myself or take it to Firesone or something? Strange thing is Ive been driving it all day and it hasnt done it since...
Alibi
09-26-2006, 10:42 PM
Nah, it isn't hard to get the drums off...unless they haven't been off in a long time then you may run into probem with rust. If you do, try some WD-40 or, better yet, some rust "eater." Then beat the crap out of the drum with a big hammer, oil the seams some more, repeat.
Otherwise...it should just slide off.
Otherwise...it should just slide off.
persuazion
09-27-2006, 03:23 PM
Well I jacked the rear tire up today and when it was in the air....it would not rotate...isnt it supposed to move?...I could not get the drum off for the life of me....it was rusted as hell and the metal was crackin off...I pried it loose a little with a flathead and sprayed brake cleaner and rust eater in the parts I loosend and let it run down into it and drip down the bottom....I was afraid that if I pulled anymore I wouldnt be able to get it back on....I hammered the drum back as far as I could...then I put the tire back on and it was spinning....what happened? Also whoever put those lugnuts on last put them on waaaaaay to tight.....I had to stop and rest every couple of mins to get them off.....should I get the drum changed out anyway? How much is it usually?
Alibi
09-27-2006, 11:30 PM
Hmm....yeah, the tire should spin freely when it is up in the air. Since you said it spun freely after you pried the drum off part-way, I'm thinking that you've got some problems with the inner brake hardware in the drum--most likely a broken spring.
Here is a link to how the drum's guts should look like (or very similar, there may be a bit of a difference in the years): http://www.lesabret.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=4060
I bet you'll need to replace your rear brake shoes too while you've got it apart. Assuming the shoes aren't dragging on the drum, you shouldn't have to replace it. If they have been dragging, you can probalby have the drum turned but if worse comes to worse, you can get a replacement drum for (I think) in the $30 range new.
Edit: Notice tht 355's posts disappeared? Odd. Oh well.
Here is a link to how the drum's guts should look like (or very similar, there may be a bit of a difference in the years): http://www.lesabret.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=4060
I bet you'll need to replace your rear brake shoes too while you've got it apart. Assuming the shoes aren't dragging on the drum, you shouldn't have to replace it. If they have been dragging, you can probalby have the drum turned but if worse comes to worse, you can get a replacement drum for (I think) in the $30 range new.
Edit: Notice tht 355's posts disappeared? Odd. Oh well.
persuazion
09-28-2006, 11:37 AM
ok thanks for the help.......I think Im just going to take it and have both my rear brakes done.....that looks like a little too much for me..lol.....should I tell them I want the shoes,drums,and springs done?
Alibi
09-28-2006, 06:52 PM
Shoes and springs definately. Just tell the shop to replace the drums only if they are shot or out of spec (wore too thin). Otherwise, there isn't any need to replace the drums.
I'd say that worse case scenario would be that your rear bearing is flakey (expensive new, but cheap at a junker) but I'm fairly sure you just have something broken/loose with your braking hardware.
Spring kits are 5-10 bucks, shoes are 30-50 for a pair, and whatever labor is for about an hour to two hours. If the wheel cylanders are wore, those are about 5-10 bucks each. Not too bad to have done at a shop.
I'd say that worse case scenario would be that your rear bearing is flakey (expensive new, but cheap at a junker) but I'm fairly sure you just have something broken/loose with your braking hardware.
Spring kits are 5-10 bucks, shoes are 30-50 for a pair, and whatever labor is for about an hour to two hours. If the wheel cylanders are wore, those are about 5-10 bucks each. Not too bad to have done at a shop.
Mickey#1
09-28-2006, 09:16 PM
Is your emergency brake working?
falc
10-07-2006, 09:56 AM
Could also be that your parking brake it not releasing properly, does this only happen after you have had the parking brake on overnight? My first line of attack would be a visual inspection of the drum hardware, specially the springs. Then I would inspect the parking brake cable from the stuck wheel forward.
Judging by your level of knowledge of brakes, I would take it to a shop and get them to do it properly. Might cost a bit more, but it will be done right.
Judging by your level of knowledge of brakes, I would take it to a shop and get them to do it properly. Might cost a bit more, but it will be done right.
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