Replacing a cam in 454

First want to thank silicon,bobss396 and maxwedge for the awsome info on the 327 that i ( OK THEY :nono: ) got runnin again!!!!I got another one for you guys .. Now that we fixed one boat motor we need to fix another..This is a 454 with a fairly fresh rebuild on it ( not by me this time ) .. Make a long story short, i here its fairly simple.. once the timing chain is off,i need to pull the fuel pump shaft out, dist out, all the lifters out and it should slide right out? :uhoh: HUH ?? I THINK:screwy: ?? I was just planing on pulling it out and putting the exact same one in.. Hoping to get some more life out of it. Also the correct way to set the valve train back up on a BB.. THJANKS Bob

First want to thank silicon,bobss396 and maxwedge for the awsome info on the 327 that i ( OK THEY :nono: ) got runnin again!!!!I got another one for you guys .. Now that we fixed one boat motor we need to fix another..This is a 454 with a fairly fresh rebuild on it ( not by me this time ) .. Make a long story short, i here its fairly simple.. once the timing chain is off,i need to pull the fuel pump shaft out, dist out, all the lifters out and it should slide right out? :uhoh: HUH ?? I THINK:screwy: ?? I was just planing on pulling it out and putting the exact same one in.. Hoping to get some more life out of it. Also the correct way to set the valve train back up on a BB.. THJANKS Bob

Same as small block all the way around. What you did with the 327 applies here as well.

Make sure that if you reuse the cam, you mark the location of each and every lifter to ensure they all go back onto their original lobe.

Or install new lifters. Yes, that can be done on a flat-tappet cam, despite soem information I've seen posted to the contrary.

What year is the 454? If it's an older one (pre-1988) Silicon can probably tell you about the potential lifter bore problem in those. It's something to check for while rebuilding.

Lifter bore problem? Like the bore hole for the lifter is to big or something?Maybe some slop? Are the only things i need to remove the lifters , the fuel pump shaft , and the dist.? And it will come out? Thanks, Bob

Lifter bores not perfectly in alignment, can open the valve too soon or too late (lifter not centered over lobe), can wipe lobes (ditto previous reason) ... check all of the bores to ensure they're all in alignment.

Blue - I've heard of (not seen) at least one case where new lifters could wipe an old cam. Now, if you follow the break-in procedure used with cams, you probably won't have a problem, but it's not out of the realm of possibility - especially if the taper on the cam lobe is worn off or worn weird. Of course, if you get the old lifters mixed up, then you HAVE to use new lifters and hope for the best. :)

OK, so if im using a new cam and new lifters i should be alright? What about the proceedure does what i discribe above sound like the right method of cam removal or is there something i missed? Sounds too easy?? LOL !!! And the break in proceedure as discribed like the 327 ? Run at 4000 rpm for 20 to 30 min then change the oil? should be ok? Ill check the year tonight..
THANKS, Bob.

If it's a later engine with a roller cam, there is no break in procedure.

OK the block is a 1971 to 1979.. The heads are 1973 to 1985.. 256/114cc oval port,118cc open chamber. They seem like pretty good heads,though i dont know much about heads? lol..What do i need to know about oval or rectangular port heads? what doesnt interchange with them? Like the intake? How do i know i have the right intake? By the way all the lifters sit just slightly to the front on the cam lobe not centered?..THANKS, Bob

Good idea going with new lifters. If the old cam is still usable, mark the lifters just to be safe. I used to drill holes in a piece of wood, number them, drop the lifters in and tape it up.

The cam/lifter bore offset is what makes the lifters rotate in their bores, so I was told by an old timer. I've seen it before and it never made a difference.

Bob