Help - Flood Damage

Please help!
When I woke up Saturday morning, I found my '93 XJ in about 3' (yes three FEET) of water.
What do I need to do before I try and start the engine? The water did not reach the air intake and came up to about 1/3 the way up the radiator. The oil level is normal - not sure about the auto transmission fluid. The gas cap was not submerged. I plan on replacing the differential fluid and the transfer case fluid. My Haynes manual was also destroyed – so I am not sure how the drain the transfer case. Is there a drain plug and where is it? What should I do about the ventilation system – the blower motor was submerged?
I have stripped the entire interior to clean and dry out. I found a reasonable amount of rust-through on the passenger side floorboard above the muffler. Is there a floorboard aftermarket drop in - or do I just need to patch it with some sheet metal? Carpet is in questionable shape and the insulation layer is falling apart. Where can I get a quality inexpensive replacement - possibly vinyl?
Any and all info will help – And if I missed anything please let me know.

Thanks and stay dry…

Bummer, where do you live?
I would worry least about the TCase and Diffs...the diffs have breather hoses that go way up (check em).
The auto trans is the problem, drain and flush it immediately (after the engine of course).
Engine oil should be changed but check the air filter for water first (I know you said that but double check).
Ventilation and blower motor might be an issue. Since it is wet already, make sure the drain is working at front firewall. Wash it with a hose without too much water pressure. Use deodorant or mildew spray.
Your NSS might need cleaning and rebuild also (now or later).
As soon as you can, drive it around to dry out the brakes so they don't rust.
Start with that. It sounds like you got plenty to do.

Note: Transfer case drain is in back by the rear driveshaft above crossmember.

Good luck and best regards.

Thanks for the input!
I live in Louisville, KY - unfortunately too close to a large creek...
I didn't even think about the NSS - I rebuilt it a few years ago. I will prob go ahead and clean and regrease it.
Thanks

Have we overlooked anything?
Please let me know...

Thanks

Howzit running? And does the Climate Contol (AC) smell? How does the auto trans fluid look?
If you are driving, I think you will Ok.

Edit:...I was reading where other folks claimed they had water in their diffs despite the breather tubes...so I was wondering if you could check yours and take a sample in a jar or something (so the water and oil will separate into layers) and report the results. I am interested to find out if the diffs are submersible for an amount of time.
Another edit:...he was in water over his headlights....so maybe you are KUL...and no worries.

I flooded my '84 Jeep XJ half way up the windows. The interior was tough to clean, mud stuck in al the nooks and crannies inside.
Be sure to clean everything out. Use lots of water to wash and rinse everything, incliuding the inside of the interior panels etc.

As mentioned above, drain and change all oils. The T case has a drain plug and a fill plug at the bottom. If any of the fluids look as if they are contaminated by moisture (mikly/foggy fluid) fill and drain the fluids at least twice more.

Be sure to remove thr brake drums and rinse them out. Debris loves to stick in there.

As for the blower motor, mine was submerged for hours but worked fine. In fact, its still there and working, after 22 years.

AlohaBra,
Hey I am staying busy with school and driving my sister's ZJ for now. I did finally get to the diffs and found a lot of water in both. The front diff breather tube fell off a few years back - I honestly did not know what it was - so the front diff was really really dirty/almost like mud. My rear breather tube connects to the frame/unibody - so if water gets into the frame there is a relly good chance that water will be in the rear diff.
Is there any way to clean these out - or should I not even bother and just reseal and fill with new fluid??

Thanks and more on the flood restoration as time permits...

*The diffs are easy to clean out. Pull both diff covers as soon as possible and drain and wash with solvent or spray solvent. Blow dry with compressed air if you can. Refill and drive....change it again in a few month (or at least check).
*Rust will happen if you leave water in there and no oil.
*Clean and replace both breather hoses.

**The auto transmission is more important**
I hope you had a chance to check, drain and run this part. The problem is the clutches in the auto trans are paper and are glued onto the plates. Water will destroy this paper and glue arrangement and the trans will slip and not go.
That happened to me once when the cooler from the radiator leaked and I had to leave it for two weeks while I was out of the country. Actually it quit on me while going to the airport. I spent $125 to have it tow home. When I came back, I had it flushed, but to no avail. It needed an overhaul by then....I just drove it down and traded it for a new car (I was also POed at the radiator shop something fierce).

Hey,
I am up and running... thanks for all the help!!

There was no water in the auto tranny - thank god! I just dropped the tran pan and replaced the filter then put it back together.

I haven't put the interior back together yet because of cancer/rust/holes eating on the passenger floor board just above the cat and muffler. Any suggestions on an easy fix. I already have a steel plate that will cover it (it's 11 gauge - I know thats overkill but it was free). I do not have welding equipment at home, so should I JB weld it over the holes or epoxy - not sure of best way to attach it? Also, I was thinking about putting in a rubberized truck bed liner instead of the old carpets - has anyone done this/ would it be worth the trouble?? If its a good idea, what kind of liner/material should be used?

Thanks again...

How big is the hole? You can use a lot of pop rivets and maybe 4 bolts... one on each corner. Here is where your mechanical engineering is going to come in.

Use a water proof caulking like urethane (used for windshields) or some house caulking from home depot that is heat resistant. Maybe someone else can comment on this.

Use spray can under coating from underneath. All this to waterproof your hole.

They make all kinds of jeep front liners for muddy conditions...just do a web search.

The hole will be about 6" or so after I clean it up and grind all the rust.
Thanks for the input - I will prob do as you, AlohaBra, prescribed. I will write up the fix if it plays out well.

So..guess you can drive and 'wheel your Jeeep now?