Z6/Y8 question...

I've got a dumb question, will a D16Z6/Y8 work without the vtec hooked up? Also, what will be the best vtec controller?

The engine will run, and you really won't be able to take it the whole way to redline (because redline will be lower without vtec)(Just fyi, I run right next to a 16.2 second car (I'm practically stock, and I once ran against one of those engines (withought vtec hooked up) in another CRX, and he was only a few car lengths behind me from start to about 70)).

An MSD RMP activated switch seems to be the cheapest vtec controller. The Honda vtec solenoid is the best.

I heard the sohc vtec swap is good for mid 15s........ With some good mods good for low 14s... (head work)..

I think ami is still runnning without...did she get the rpm activated switch thing yet....??:confused:

my reason for asking is because I'll probably spend $1k-$2k on one of those engines and after a hit like that I'll be looking for it to work in my car.

You could buy a b16 for that much...but the RPM switches are always floating around for less than 50 bucks, a friend of mine has one if you need it. Just let me know, he'll probably still have it.

Yes you could buy a b16a for that much but you still need about another grand in parts to get it to work in your car.

A little over 2k will have it in my car with head work done, rebuild if nesscesary, a ss header, reground cam, aggressive ecu, short shifter, aftermarket lsd, vtec working, ignition system, and aggressive intake manifold. The initial swap could cost from $500-1200 depending if you do the work or have some1 else do it. Not turbo but well prepped SOHC vtecs have beaten b16s..... The b16a is great but its a trend and for the money I would spend to drop in I could have that swapped in a d-series swaped in with all the mods to whoop up on the b16s ass. I am not trying to build a track car. I want a fast streetable civic or celica :devil: People who sell b16s make a killing in japan the whole engine with everything costs no more than $300 and thats reaching. Why does everyone want to drop 4k on a b16? Because the trend says its the best and it looks better under the hood than a lil d series.

If you do swap in the d16z6/y8 I would recommend getting the appropriate ECU for the engine. It just makes more sense to use the ECU that was programmed for the engine. It might be more expensive, but your car will run better with the right ECU.

Originally posted by 88CiViC_DX
I think ami is still runnning without...did she get the rpm activated switch thing yet....??:confused:

my y8 is in, yes. vtec running, no. it feels like an a6 with a slight quicker response. why do i have no vtec? i'm fighting the injector battle. you might as well say it's running on 3 cylinders at the moment :( it sucks

the rpm switch works and is cheap however, not really worth it. save your $50 and apply it toward a p28 (92-95 Si/EX) ECU. the one main reason is it is has all the mapping set-up for the sohc vtec. sure the non vtec ecu works but, you lose a little. another feature (few people bring up) of the p28 ecu is: it flashes the check engine light for the ECU code...rather than pulling up your carpet to read a flashing LED on the ecu. it sounds stupid, but when you start doing swaps you end up checking that thing more than you ever would on a stock daily driver.